Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: KawaMan2015 on April 30, 2020, 08:17:05 PM
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Is there someone who could tell me for that reason is there such a big difference in viscosity and color between these two brand of Final Gear Case Oil? The Yamalube does not smell almost anything and Motul has a very strong odor as usual for this kind of oil?
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Good question. That Yamalube doesn't look right (is it... clear??) And every brand of gear/shaft lube I have encountered has a horrible smell, which I assumed is "normal." Right now I am using Redline Synthetic 75W90.
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Yet the Yamalube skirt was new and sealed ... maybe their refining process to get to this texture? because these are recommended for several of their vehicles ... including the fjr1300! The mechanics of Yamaha are one of the best in the industry, I don't think they would recommend an oil that doesn't meet the high quality specification for their vehicles!?!
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I used the Mobil1 gear lube in both the C10 and C14. It's quite clear from what I remember.
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Yamaha is Synthetic, Motul is mineral. Hence colour difference.
The Yamaha will feel slipperier as it has friction modifiers.
Either one will do for the C14.
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Yamaha is Synthetic, Motul is mineral. Hence colour difference.
The Yamaha will feel slipperier as it has friction modifiers.
Either one will do for the C14.
Actually both are mineral based lubes.. neither are synthetic, and as noted, Mineral based oils are generally always darker.. But the Yamaha does have friction modifiers, which in my opinion is a better oils than ones without, when used in a gearcase like ours. Both meet the "GL rating", I trust Yamaha oils and have for over 45 years, always have found them to be at the top tier of motorcycle manufacturers "branded" oils, and the people they contract for the refining always seem to be reliable.
Even tho the Motul is dark, and stinky, it's also a fine product; but after seeing the clear stuff, I think I'll use it on my next change, simply because it's clear, and I can get a better idea of the discoloration when it gets drained.. makes a lot of sense.. I still have some leftover Mobil Synth, from my last change last summer, it's pretty clear, with a slight golden color, but I like that clear stuff... and odor free.. can't beat that... I've always said since I began to drive, and blow transmissions and rear ends up... "the worst smell in the world, is gear lube... because when you smell it.. it smells like $$$$$$$ is gonna be needed to fix sumpin'..."
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Even tho the Motul is dark, and stinky, it's also a fine product; but after seeing the clear stuff, I think I'll use it on my next change, simply because it's clear, and I can get a better idea of the discoloration when it gets drained.. makes a lot of sense..
The Redline "synthetic" I am using is a golden color and smells nasty. When it is changed, it will have shifted to a somewhat gray color.
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Hello,
To dispel my doubts about the viscosity, the color and the smell ... I phoned the Yamaha dealer and asked to speak to the master mechanic. After explaining my observations on the drive shaft oil that the clerk sold me, it turned out that the oil was not the right one that the clerk provided for the use I was supposed to make it ... They exchanged my pint for the right product! Now the color, the viscosity and the smell are a little more like that of Motul! It must be admitted that the description of the 2 pints can be confusing for someone with limited oil knowledge! The morale of this story ... Never hesitate to doubt when a change is too radical !!
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Yesterday, after having changed the oil change in my shaft drive to put the right oil, this time! I did a hike of 225 km without stopping at a speed equivalent to the highway ... the box of the shaft drive of my motorcycle was only lukewarm! So very effective Yamalube oil !!
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Hello,
To dispel my doubts about the viscosity, the color and the smell ... I phoned the Yamaha dealer and asked to speak to the master mechanic. After explaining my observations on the drive shaft oil that the clerk sold me, it turned out that the oil was not the right one that the clerk provided for the use I was supposed to make it ... They exchanged my pint for the right product! Now the color, the viscosity and the smell are a little more like that of Motul! It must be admitted that the description of the 2 pints can be confusing for someone with limited oil knowledge! The morale of this story ... Never hesitate to doubt when a change is too radical !!
Not that it makes much of a difference for this post but those are quart bottles, not pints.
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Also when refilling the final drive case, it's best to leave a gap (quarter inch or less) from the top of the threads. The case can easily be overfilled and blow a seal (easy boys).
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Correct me if I am wrong, but I assumed you were doing a change on a C14, so with that said, I don't see anything "wrong" with the clear quart you originally got; It was SAE 80/90, and marked as noted to meet GL4 and GL5 applications.. perfectly fine... as for the friction modifiers, I can't say that is a bad thing either, as in this gearcase, it's just gears meshing.. not like a friction modifier will effect that in a detrimental way... like if there were actually friction plates in the drive box (like some "limited slip" domestic differentials have, in the automotive field)...
I also caution, as Jim did, not to over fill.. but stop where the fluid touches the lower threads at the fill hole, and NEVER spin/rotate the tire/wheel while doing the fill... it will cause an over filled condition, as the lube sticks to the gears, and then drains back down.. this will ruin the inner big seal, and also the outer bearing seal on that gear case... and make a real mess... I only mention this as a backup reminder, when people are doing a fluid replacement, that are not aware of the outcome.
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Correct me if I am wrong, but I assumed you were doing a change on a C14, so with that said, I don't see anything "wrong" with the clear quart you originally got; It was SAE 80/90, and marked as noted to meet GL4 and GL5 applications.. perfectly fine... as for the friction modifiers, I can't say that is a bad thing either, as in this gearcase, it's just gears meshing.. not like a friction modifier will effect that in a detrimental way... like if there were actually friction plates in the drive box (like some "limited slip" domestic differentials have, in the automotive field)...
I also caution, as Jim did, not to over fill.. but stop where the fluid touches the lower threads at the fill hole, and NEVER spin/rotate the tire/wheel while doing the fill... it will cause an over filled condition, as the lube sticks to the gears, and then drains back down.. this will ruin the inner big seal, and also the outer bearing seal on that gear case... and make a real mess... I only mention this as a backup reminder, when people are doing a fluid replacement, that are not aware of the outcome.
That's what I was thinking. I saw nothing wrong with the specs on the first quart of Yamalube. It was correct for the C14. It looks like the Shaft Drive Exclusive is simply one that supposedly holds up better under harder use. Oh, and it is double the cost as well, so I'm sure it's much better. Sarcasm notwithstanding, between the two, I'd probably go with the Final Drive Exclusive as well.