The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original > The Bike - C10

Clutch will not engage.

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cc_ryder:
On my last ride I was having trouble down shifting. If I waited until I stopped, I could not shift into neutral without partial operation of the clutch. It got worse on the way home. If I stopped in first gear the bike would lunge forward with the clutch engaged.
On inspection the reservoir was full but fluid dirty. I assumed a seal was worn (2001, 44000 Mi) so I ordered kits for the master and slave units. Disassembled and cleaned everything, found the main seal in the master cylinder slightly worn.  Reassembled and bleed the system. No joy was to be found. Shift into first OK, engage clutch unable to stop drive wheel. Rebleed with vacuum at slave unit, still no joy! Checked slave for proper function. Clamped slave cylinder and applied maximum presser to clutch lever. Hard as, well noncompressible brake fluid. Still unable to engage clutch!
I know someone has had this problem or if not, does anyone have an idea what is going on?
I do not have experience with this clutch. Could the plates be stuck together? I did also notice that the oil level is slightly higher than normal. Could there be a gasket leak and coolant in the oil? Please help it is BIKE WEEK and I am bikeless.

RFH87_Connie:
44k is pretty low for a worn out clutch, but not unheard of.  "Stuck" disks (that I have seen) usually occur from long periods or sitting or storage.  Usually when a clutch wears, you get 6 speeds of neutral.  You said you rebuilt the MC and slave.  If you break the bleed open at the slave does fluid come out?  This would make sure the line is clear and the MC can flow fluid to the slave.  I guess you could unbolt the slave to see if it can move the piston by SLIGHTLY pulling on the lever.  There is also a tapered shaft that goes in only one way in the slave.  If it could be put in backwards maybe it is binding and not actuating the clutch?  After that, maybe the next step is to pull the right side cover to see if the clutch is actuating?

IMHO-
The star spring usually makes the clutch kind of feel like it has a double-bump in it when pulled in (like when coming to a stop), but it generally still works.  If a tab or two have broke off, one could possibly wedge itself into a spot to prevent the clutch from disengaging.  This would require the right cover to be removed.

When the oil breaks down the clutch gives a pretty clacky feeling when shifting.  If gas is in the oil (from eminent hydrolock) it would probably still have the clacky feeling but not prevent disengaging.  Coolant would probably do the same thing.

Keep us posted.

cc_ryder:
RFH87_Connie, The master cylinder and slave are working fine. The slave piston operates smoothly and there is no air in the system. The clutch pushrod was not removed so it is in the correct orientation. I do not believe the clutch is worn out as I have not noticed any slipping.   I will remove the clutch cover for a visual inspection.

Jim __:
I'm assuming everything was put back together correctly.  I went through this misery when I cleaned my master and slave out the first time.  I bled a full bottle through the system and it still didn't work.  I really hope this is your problem and it will only take a few minutes to try.

Make sure the master is almost full and the lid is back on the reservoir (you don't have to screw it down). 
Turn the handle bars to the right.
Set the clutch lever adjustment knob to "1" for maximum master cylinder  piston travel.
Squeeze and hold the lever fully, like normal, and open/close the bleed valve.
LET THE CLUTCH LEVER "SNAP" BACK.  If you don't let it snap back, you will never get the air out of the master cylinder.  Also, if the lid is not on the reservoir,  that snap back action will launch a stream of brake fluid into the air.
Do this a couple of times and the lever should start to require more effort towards the end of the stroke.
I bleed a reservoir full of fluid after this point and I'm good to go.

Jim __:
I just reread your original post.  So with the slave clamped, you could only squeeze the clutch lever a little bit, correct?  Then it's not air in the master cylinder.  Sorry I couldn't have been more help.

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