Frustrated by coming across yet another problem (oil-leak)

[Tzigane]

Hi guys,

I've got a GTR1000, since November. I only managed to drive about 2500 km with it, everything I think it's working, something else pops up.

The most recent problems, oil leaks.
Last week I changed the valvecover gasket, as it was leaking.

I had another drive of 70km, and I find the right wet with oil. No problem, I didn't clean after the gasket-change, must be old oil that got hot and started to run. I cleaned the sides however, and returning home after another 90km, I find a wet right side again. I can't really see where it is coming from though.

Pictures I took right after that ride:







I cleaned it off, drove a little at lower speeds so the fluids don't get spread out by the wind as much (I've been driving without lower fairing since I first noticed the first oil-leak)

Took pictures again, the wetness seems to concentrate near the exhaust.





- valvecover gastket is dry.
- the oil-canal bolt is tight, dry too.
- rocker shaft nut is dry.

- Bike runs fine, doesn't get hot, no smoke, no odd fuel consumption.

Any suggestions? Am I looking at a blown head-cover gasket? If so, is it easily replaceable? (does the engine need to lifted out of the frame?) Any other ideas?

I'm bordering on dumping the damned thing in a ditch. It is by far the most unreliable and shitty motorcycle I have ever owned.  So far I've spent 1900 euros on it, and a lot of time getting it to this (rebuilt carbs braking calipers, clutch caliper, new braking discs, battery, new springs (front and back). It's as if the bike is possessed by a malicious spirit: "Yes, once Owner fixes this part of me, I will let part X break down, hehehe!"

Part of me wants to continue because I love the bike when it works, but the bike is also my main means of transportation. :/ (don't own a driver's licence for a car)

[MAN OF BLUES]

there is a metal "y" shaped oil pipe on the front of the engine, that ties to the front thru a banjo bolt, in that area betwee the exhust exits for #3 & #4
check that closely, one of the crush washers sealing it my be compromised... the oil seems to originate from that frontal area, or the front edge of the valve cover. its easy to displace the cover gasket there, as there is an air dam to direct airflow, that tends to displace the gasket when you install the cover.
hope this helps.

[Tzigane]

Thanks! I will check both tomorrow.

The oil banjo bolt looks tight enough, but indeed, the washers could be leaking.

I'll also check the gasket again. It looks dry, it felt good when installing, but I can't see it 100% well, so I'd better check.

I'm just really hoping this isn't coming from the headgasket. 

[Tzigane]

Today I found out that there is a crack in the cilinderhead..



This sucks very much.

I attempted a last resort fixing with two-component aluminium, I hope it holds. it's only a few drops that were pushing through, so it might even.



If not. I'll drop the thing into a lake, give up motorcycling and get my license to drive a bloody car. I'm quite pissed about all the problems that keep popping up on this bike.

[Mettler1]

  quote; If not. I'll drop the thing into a lake, give up motorcycling and get my license to drive a bloody car. I'm quite pissed about all the problems that keep popping up on this bike.

   Sounds like a good plan to me. Motorcycles are not cheap transportation. Especially old ones.

[Tzigane]

Well, I recently did some calculations, a 2000,- bike including maintenance, fuel, insurance, taxes, clothing, costs less than a car.

And it's easier to ride, more fun, faster. Bleh...

I hope the fix I did works. But even then I have so many negative vibes with this bike by now that I might sell it anyway.

Since I got it, I rode only 2800 km with it. Most of that was to and from the workshop..

[Cholla]

Yesterday when I firs saw this thread I almost posted it looks like in the first pics someone had used some kind of epoxy on it around the cam bore plug and elsewhere but I thought I was crazy.
Well, I am crazy but I wasn't seeing things!

[MAN OF BLUES]

Well, I recently did some calculations, a 2000,- bike including maintenance, fuel, insurance, taxes, clothing, costs less than a car.

And it's easier to ride, more fun, faster. Bleh...

I hope the fix I did works. But even then I have so many negative vibes with this bike by now that I might sell it anyway.

Since I got it, I rode only 2800 km with it. Most of that was to and from the workshop..

hopfully the thermal expansion of the sealing product used will remain reliable for you, I consider it a temporary fix...
I wish you would have posted the finding of the crack, prior to slathering it with some sealer/repair goop, as I would have suggested you take it to someone with experience in TIG welding, and they could have cleaned, ground a groove in the crack to accept a weld, and welded it up, in about 10 minutes, without damaging anything. or even catching the bike on fire,as it is a very small and llcalized weld to begin with. and if they slapped a water soaked rag on it, would have cured your problem in about a $20 (U.S.) fix.


maybe you might want to take those photos, and see a good welder, and have them give you a quote for a proper repair....

can't hurt, and may provide you with a machine worthy of much more than a rock at the bottom of a river or lake....
(oh, if you do throw it off a bridge, mind the ecology, and remove the battery, drain the fluids, and fuel,  and run like hell...)

[Tzigane]

Na, I'm a biologist and hippie, I'd not damage an ecosystem with my frustrations.

This fix was proposed by the mechanic I trust.
"start with the simple fixes first"

If it doesn't work, I will replace the whole cilinderhead with another one instead of having it repaired. I'd rather be sure I have a proper head instead of a fixed one.
I'll pick up the bike today to see how it holds.

[Tzigane]

So far, this fix seems to hold. I'll see where it gets me.

[MAN OF BLUES]

So far, this fix seems to hold. I'll see where it gets me.

fingers crossed and thinking it should work fine, as long as the surfaces were cleaned well with MEK or Acetone prior to application to remove residual oils... there is no actual pressure on the area behind the crack, the crankaes is vented, and that area is just a gravity return oil gally zone.

[Tzigane]

Indeed.

I removed all the paint from the surface, ground the crack into a deeper gully, and scratched the surface for maximum adhesion. Applied the stuff after cleaning it thoroughly.