Author Topic: TPS  (Read 7134 times)

Offline lather

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Re: TPS
« Reply #20 on: April 04, 2013, 09:04:11 AM »
Without any solder or weld it's just a matter of time before the pressed connection oxidizes and you get the low battery warning.
I think you have a good point.
Nothing worse than having your balls go missing.

Offline texrider

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Re: TPS
« Reply #21 on: April 04, 2013, 04:54:51 PM »
Were the tabs soldered to the batt? You pried the tabs loose with what? I will be doing this next tire. change and wondering what is safer, a soldering iron or a pry bar.

The tabs were laser welded with one or two tiny spots on each tab, and a very small flat blade screwdriver easily pops them off the battery. The act of prying the tabs off leaves a rather pointy surface to engage the new battery, so I think it will not be prone to develop resistance from oxidation. Sort of like those star washers that get a good bite on a wire terminal that's bolted to a car fender, etc.

Add a small dab of battery terminal grease just to be sure.  8)
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Offline lather

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Re: TPS
« Reply #22 on: April 04, 2013, 09:33:43 PM »
Thanks!
Nothing worse than having your balls go missing.

Offline lather

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Re: TPS
« Reply #23 on: April 09, 2013, 02:20:30 PM »
Replaced the battery on my rear TPS today during a tire change. I did unsolder the old batt and soldered in the new one. Took a short test ride and the pressure reading came right up.
Nothing worse than having your balls go missing.

Offline Conrad

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Re: TPS
« Reply #24 on: April 09, 2013, 02:25:21 PM »
Replaced the battery on my rear TPS today during a tire change. I did unsolder the old batt and soldered in the new one. Took a short test ride and the pressure reading came right up.

Great work! Any gottchas to look out for?
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Offline pasini510

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Re: TPS
« Reply #25 on: April 09, 2013, 02:44:10 PM »
When I pried apart the plastic housing ,broke , I then noticed a screw under a sticker so i used a good ole hot glue gun to repair. Works great so take sticker off to see screw.
Andre

Offline lather

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Re: TPS
« Reply #26 on: April 09, 2013, 04:01:00 PM »
The screw is tiny and is a TORX head. With my thick, clumsy fingers I managed to drop it in a crack in the driveway. It must be made of a non magnetic alloy, I could not find it with my magnet. But the two halves of the case snap together nice and tight anyway plus when you bolt it to the shrader valve through the wheel I don't see how it could come apart. I was so impatient to take a test ride I did not want to wait for a new screw. I was looking at the pictorial over at the "other site" and following along. The battery I used had different tabs, 180 degrees apart but they worked fine. They are easy to bend and flexible which makes them easy to work with. Test fit the battery before you solder it in.

As in the pictorial I held the circuit board leads with a mini-vice grip held in a vice. The battery tabs had little holes on the end. I put a bit of solder in these first, then held the tab to the lead, which already had some solder and applied heat. A couple seconds was all it took. The vice grips act as a heat sink to protect the circuit board. Once solder together the battery and circuit board both snapped snugly into the case.
Nothing worse than having your balls go missing.