Author Topic: Push-rivets  (Read 1661 times)

Offline Snype

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Push-rivets
« on: July 07, 2018, 02:29:18 PM »
Anyone know where to get push-rivetd that fit without paying $3/rivet from Kawasaki?

Snype

Offline katata1100

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Re: Push-rivets
« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2018, 02:41:44 PM »
I got a large bag of them for around $5 from my local Cycle Gear shop.

Offline Poseidon

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Re: Push-rivets
« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2018, 05:43:58 PM »
They are available everywhere. EBay, Amazon, local autoparts store, fastenal, etc.
2017 Concours 14
2016 Victory Magnum
2013 M109R
2016 Can Am Spyder F3T - Wife's bike

Offline maxtog

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Re: Push-rivets
« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2018, 09:06:14 PM »
The trick is getting the correct size, because there are many.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline Freddy

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Re: Push-rivets
« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2018, 04:35:36 AM »
The K ones are 2-3mm longer than the 50 I got from ebay for about $10, making them difficult to fit and remove.  But hey, they are now a single use item as I have lots of em.   ;D
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Offline Snype

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Re: Push-rivets
« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2018, 12:01:58 AM »
Exactly.  I've bought several bags and cannot get the size right.  They all list the diameter, but not the length.  The standard sizes are too short

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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Push-rivets
« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2018, 02:58:36 PM »
The K ones are 2-3mm longer than the 50 I got from ebay for about $10, making them difficult to fit and remove.  But hey, they are now a single use item as I have lots of em.   ;D

just use care when installing...
when Murph was looking for replacements (same time i was also, and would not settle for "close"), the ones we found thru extensive search were differing in some aspects, length being one major aspect... also, diameter. The length issue creates a problem as the "expanding" fingers, when the rivet is too short, put a lot of pressure on the parts being held, and are not easily removed. The other issue is most often, and even tho they are sold as "metric", you will end up with 1/4" rivets, which are fatter, and also make them difficult to use,(remove). It also stresses the parts more than the correct ones that 'swell' away from the inner surface being retained.
The areas some of these are used in (primarily around the windshield, black plastic insert wraparound) side pocket parts, have a pretty thin fragile part they attach to, it's not robust, and is easily cracked (seen a few already, and it becomes $$ to replace them). The only solution for protection from fractures, is to run a 1/4" drill bit thru the parts being retained, but then, downstream, OEM's will not work properly from that point... it's a coin flip. I chose not to recommend any of the ones we tested, as I didn't want (or want to tell Murph to tell others to..) to tell folks to drill OEM holes out for use with 'inch' fasteners.
I also never liked the 'pry out the head' types commonly sold, the 'push pin to release' type in my opinion, was a nice design... but they are costly, and un-obtainium other than OEM.
Big Bummer.
I've probably removed the push pin ones (OEM) at least 20 times, with no failures.. so I kind of like them, not so much the 'pry out the pin head' ones..

I'll also note, I didn't just look at "motorcycle parts outlets/sales places" when doing this research, having had to use extensive amounts of odd fasteners in my engineering work, I went thru almost every venue of fastener manufacturer (probably 40 or so companies, that common folk would never find or use) in search of a 'correct' OEM replacement... and found zip to fit ideally.. bummer.

46 YEARS OF KAW.....  47 years of DEVO..

Offline maxtog

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Re: Push-rivets
« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2018, 03:32:51 PM »
I've probably removed the push pin ones (OEM) at least 20 times, with no failures.. so I kind of like them, not so much the 'pry out the pin head' ones..

I have damaged at least 3 and lost one.  When they work, they work well.  But if you are not paying attention and put the wrong size in the wrong hole, or miss one of the "fingers", especially in the part behind it, they are more easily damaged than I would have hoped.

Like you, I have a hatred of the "pry off the head" kind.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline Poseidon

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Re: Push-rivets
« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2018, 06:09:24 PM »
just use care when installing...
when Murph was looking for replacements (same time i was also, and would not settle for "close"), the ones we found thru extensive search were differing in some aspects, length being one major aspect... also, diameter. The length issue creates a problem as the "expanding" fingers, when the rivet is too short, put a lot of pressure on the parts being held, and are not easily removed. The other issue is most often, and even tho they are sold as "metric", you will end up with 1/4" rivets, which are fatter, and also make them difficult to use,(remove). It also stresses the parts more than the correct ones that 'swell' away from the inner surface being retained.
The areas some of these are used in (primarily around the windshield, black plastic insert wraparound) side pocket parts, have a pretty thin fragile part they attach to, it's not robust, and is easily cracked (seen a few already, and it becomes $$ to replace them). The only solution for protection from fractures, is to run a 1/4" drill bit thru the parts being retained, but then, downstream, OEM's will not work properly from that point... it's a coin flip. I chose not to recommend any of the ones we tested, as I didn't want (or want to tell Murph to tell others to..) to tell folks to drill OEM holes out for use with 'inch' fasteners.
I also never liked the 'pry out the head' types commonly sold, the 'push pin to release' type in my opinion, was a nice design... but they are costly, and un-obtainium other than OEM.
Big Bummer.
I've probably removed the push pin ones (OEM) at least 20 times, with no failures.. so I kind of like them, not so much the 'pry out the pin head' ones..

I'll also note, I didn't just look at "motorcycle parts outlets/sales places" when doing this research, having had to use extensive amounts of odd fasteners in my engineering work, I went thru almost every venue of fastener manufacturer (probably 40 or so companies, that common folk would never find or use) in search of a 'correct' OEM replacement... and found zip to fit ideally.. bummer.

I could be wrong, but I seriously doubt KHI is manufacturing their own push pins. Someone must be making them for them. Most companies outsource stuff like fasteners. There must be a company out there that makes them for Kawasaki. I wonder if the pushpins on Kawasaki ATVs are the same.
2017 Concours 14
2016 Victory Magnum
2013 M109R
2016 Can Am Spyder F3T - Wife's bike

Offline maxtog

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Re: Push-rivets
« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2018, 09:00:23 PM »
We need to find them and divvy them out!
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc