Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: Cigars on April 21, 2018, 07:08:23 PM
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I will probably be replacing the clutch this summer or fall. Anyone done one? Just curious as to how long it takes with all the blasted body work.
I'll be using all stock OEM parts.
Cheers.
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why replace the clutch? is it slipping? Mine was still good at 170,000 miles.
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why replace the clutch? is it slipping? Mine was still good at 170,000 miles.
I'm going to go out on a limb here and say it's because it was a police unit and I'll bet the clutch took a beating in the city traffic. Also from what I've seen in the police bike rodeos or whatever those are called, those guys are always revving and slipping the clutch during slow speed maneuvers.
Am I close?
Regardless Cigars, if you get the photo size reduction and posting figured out, I would like to see photos of your work and perhaps some new clutch plate/old clutch plate comparison photos.
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The stack height is critical due to the reverse torque limiter and with out having a mock up crank case it can be a little tricky getting it correct.
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why replace the clutch? is it slipping? Mine was still good at 170,000 miles.
Yeah, I don't think I remember seeing a single posting about replacing a clutch on a C14 due to wear.
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I really thought mine was slipping once. It turned out that my heated gear remote that was velcroed on top of the clutch reservoir had a small lanyard that I had inadequately wrapped around the reservoir, and was in the gap between the lever and the perch/mount preventing full engagement of the clutch. It did a pretty good job of testing my clutch hydraulics for a half mile or so. It slipped just as much when I pulled over as when I first noticed it. ::)
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Now, if that is not proof of the awesomeness of KiPass, I do not know what is. Clearly, Marty mechanically (as opposed to emotionally) abused his clutch to the point that would have caused glazed clutch plates on ANY OTHER bike not protected by KiPass.
Brian
I really thought mine was slipping once. It turned out that my heated gear remote that was velcroed on top of the clutch reservoir had a small lanyard that I had inadequately wrapped around the reservoir, and was in the gap between the lever and the perch/mount preventing full engagement of the clutch. It did a pretty good job of testing my clutch hydraulics for a half mile or so. It slipped just as much when I pulled over as when I first noticed it. ::)
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Mine sure lets out a moan sometimes. Always has I suppose.
Sometimes I launch that bike as hard as I can. Probably more often than you think.
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Mine sure lets out a moan sometimes. Always has I suppose.
Sometimes I launch that bike as hard as I can. Probably more often than you think.
Are we still talking bikes here?
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Mine sure lets out a moan sometimes. Always has I suppose.
Sometimes I launch that bike as hard as I can. Probably more often than you think.
Mine has done that a few times as well.
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The stack height is critical due to the reverse torque limiter and with out having a mock up crank case it can be a little tricky getting it correct.
I'm pretty sure the friction plates (as are the ones from the C10's I've done) are extremely consistent in their thickness'
with that said, unless you find severely warped steel plates (which would have been very evident by now), simply disassembling, noting the plate locations in the stack (the steel "off size one's locations"), while soaking the frictions in an oil bath for an overnight pre soak, and reassemble all per FSM, will safely refresh the system to it's as delivered state, without requiring the tedious messing around explained in setting stack height. I cannot think there would be any issue whatsoever, when using OEM frictions only... even if you "buff" the steels lightly with a Scotchbrite' or even 400 grit wet-or-dry paper, I do stress lightly tho...
my clutch has 'groaned' when abused, since day one... It hasn't effected its job tho, I liken it to it is talking to me, saying "ohhh nooooo, not AGAIN...." :o ;D
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I do occasionally get the groan when coming out of first gear. It's only under certain conditions like throttle and clutch release occur a bit too close. Nothing fatal yet but I just want to stay ahead of the game. Looking at the other posts here though I don't think I've got much to worry about. Maybe I'll think about it some more in about 20k miles. :D
I did figure out about resizing the pics for posting. I tried to couple of apps but they were a pain in the butt. Gmail let's you choose what size you want to send pics so now I just email them to myself and choose the small size. Problem solved.
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download the free version of IrfanView..
been using it since '02, and it lets you resize, and resample in "image mode", shrinking the file size substantially without any loss of quality or picture dimension.
here
https://www.irfanview.com/ (https://www.irfanview.com/)
it's advanced quite a bit, I'm still running verson 4.20 on my XP machines.. :rotflmao: :rotflmao:
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And if you are running Linux, then just make sure Imagemagick is installed, go to the appropriate pictures directory and:
mogrify -scale 1280x1280 *jpg
(or whatever maximum X and Y res you want) and you are done. :)
(Please note, that is destructive, only do that to COPIES of the originals, if you want to retain the higher res.)