Adjusting head bearings.

[gtr1000]

I've always done the bearing adjustment by slackening the top fork clamps, handlebar clamps and big triple tree nut but my question is, can the adjsutment be done by slackening just the big nut AND lower fork clamps, thereby leaving the top clamps and bars in place?

[connie_rider]

I see whatyour trying to do, but I don't think you would have adequate access to the lower nut. (to do the adjustment).
Plus, I think the adjustment nut is so tight against the upper Tripple Tree that the nut will not turn.

Ride safe, Ted

[T Cro ®]

Actually if you read the factory Service Manual you will see that loosing the lower clamps IS their preferred method but with that being said and without getting into a lengthy pro & con very few of us do it that way. Speaking only for myself I simply find it easier to loosen up the top hardware to make these adjustments. Plus in my opinion that loosening the upper allows the pre-existing steering geometry to remain unchanged as the lower bearing under use will always remain pre-loaded from contact with the road and thusly the upper bearing will always have the slack.


While I feel that either method works without issue I will add this: Do a Google Search on this subject and let us know the majority results...

[yoman]

Is there a link to this proceedure?

[T Cro ®]

Is there a link to this procedure?

Sorry I don't but; if you don't have a Service Manual that absolute best advise I can give in owning and maintaining a bike is for you to GET ONE...

[Cholla]

Always loosen the lower triple clamp. This moves the stem, lower race and bearing up to the inner race without moving the forks.

[yoman]

Sorry I don't but; if you don't have a Service Manual that absolute best advise I can give in owning and maintaining a bike is for you to GET ONE...

I have the service manual. I was refering to your earlier post talking about the difference between the "book" way and the real world.

[gtr1000]

I thought this subject might get conflicting ways of adjustment. T Cro has one way and Cholla has another  .

So if I've always loosened the top triple clamps, what's the pros and cons for each method?

[Cholla]

My way (factory) the forks remain staionary in their clamps. The only thing moving is the lower clamp with the stem and bearing. Doing it the other way moves the forks higher in the clamps and changes steering geometry.

[gtr1000]

Thanks Cholla. All makes perfect sense. So in effect, you're "moving" (by a few thou) the lower triple towards the "fixed" upper triple.

[Daytona_Mike]

My way (factory) the forks remain staionary in their clamps. The only thing moving is the lower clamp with the stem and bearing. Doing it the other way moves the forks higher in the clamps and changes steering geometry.

Cholla's and the books method does change the geometry  of the forks. We have had this discussion before and I thought I was very clear explaining  why this is.I guess I failed to convince some people. That facts are still the same. The lower tripple tree with the stem and lower bearing is already pressed together  up into the goose neck from the weight of the bike, it cannot move up or down.     Loosen the top  clamps /tripple tree only and remove it from the bike. Did the bike drop? No.  did the bike  rise up?  No. The relationship to the ground is exactly the same.
Install the top plate, tighten the stem nut, the plate will move  down lower on the fork tubes and this is how the stem bearings will get tight (more fork tube will now  be above the tripple tree. Now tighten the upper clamps  Did the bike rise up or drop down? No. It is exactly the same relationship from the goose neck to the ground as when you started .  Also the   distance of the fork measured from the wheel Axel up  to the bottom of the tipple tree is exactly the same.
The only thing that has changed is you now have a tight stem bearing and  a little bit  of  the  top of the forks  is more exposed.  Doing it the other way  when you tighten the large stem nut bearing force or pressure  that  will will push that small ' top of the forks exposed' part downward raising the bike up. The forks are  a tiny bit longer now (as measured from the bottom of the lower triple tree to the bottom of the fork) and the bike is now taller.

One thing to note, this  is such a miniscule  of a change it really doesnt matter which way you do it. I just  choose the easy way, to take the top off.
If you understand the above, then ponder this: What happens if  you only  loosen  the bottom clamps and remove the top nut?   Hint: Don't do it unless you have a jack under the front of the bike.
Now, what happens if you only  loosen the top clamps and remove the nut?  Hint: you wont need the jack.
Please tell me you understand this concept.

[gtr1000]

Please tell me you understand this concept.

Sure do  .

[MAN OF BLUES]

Sure do  .

problem is, that Cholla the arena dweller doesn't seem to understand it...and he vehemently argued with Mike and I a few months back......
follow Mikes procedure. I prefer to pull the bars, and the top tree off to insure the correct compression on the bearings...then there is no chance of the top tree messing up the procedure...it's all easy, and only takes a few minutes.

oh, I might add, that if you have never lubed or inspected the bearings.....it might be a good time to get intimate, instead of just tightening them up.....grease is good....and makes them last.......
no grease makes them look like this

[timsatx]

MOB, is that the lower bearing?

[Daytona_Mike]

MOB, is that the lower bearing?

Yes, that  rusty bearing is the lower.

[nevadazx12]

I tried to adjust the stem end play according to the book, loosened the bottom triple tree, followed the instructions and broke the tip off my adjusting tool.  Tightened the bottom tree and removed the top clamp to see what was going on, adjusted it now (after I welded a new tip on the adj tool).  As the discussion mentioned, the movement is so small that I don't think it makes any difference.  I like doing it with the top removed as in the end it is so much easier to adjust with the locking tab removed from the adjusting nut.

[timsatx]

Yes, that  rusty bearing is the lower.

Wow, I guess I will be looking at mine when I get to the front end work I am going to do. I will soon get a new tire so I have to mount it. I am also going to install some new Sonic Springs I got from someone here (thanks Ted), and I am going to install some drain plugs on the fork, so while I have it apart I may as well go thru the bearings too. What grease is used for this?

[gtr1000]

Iwith the locking tab removed from the adjusting nut.

I feel I may have cocked up with mine when adjusting from the top then. Pray tell, what's this locking tab ?

 

[nevadazx12]

The locking tab sits on top of the locking nut under the top plate covering 2 of the easiest to get to notches in the 4 notches available.  When I took the top plate off I discovered it's center was round so it could move when the adjusting nut was turned.  How it works is a bit of a puzzle, I guess  when the top nut is tightened the fingers push down to keep the locking nut from turning. 

[gtr1000]

The locking tab sits on top of the locking nut under the top plate covering 2 of the easiest to get to notches in the 4 notches available.  When I took the top plate off I discovered it's center was round so it could move when the adjusting nut was turned.  How it works is a bit of a puzzle, I guess  when the top nut is tightened the fingers push down to keep the locking nut from turning.

Thanks for that. So the locking tab tab doesn't have to be removed (or the tabs bent back) when adjusting the bearings as loosening the lock nut frees it up?