Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => Accessories and Modifications - C10 => Topic started by: billhook on April 15, 2012, 04:26:21 PM
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My Audiovox Cruise stopped working. I am getting power and have continuity to every wire at the servo unit, except the blue tach wire. I have continuity up to just before the noise suppressor (servo side) and no continuity past it (coil side). How important is the noise suppressor? A search found one posting where someone said they think it won't hold speed for long without it, but nothing definitive. Murph's install instructions only say to leave it on the line. Has anyone replaced it? Murph's instructions said it's a 20K resistor and the other post I found said that they couldn't find one at Rat Shack.
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I looked for the trouble shooting link I had but it is dead. I may have a hard copy at home.
Wayne
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Maybe this will help
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Thanks, guys. I have that wiring diagram. I've been getting some input on the club site and have determined that every wire is powered as it should, except possibly the blue coil wire. All lights on the keypad light. Pressing the SET or RESUME buttons makes the LED on the servo light. Ground wire has continuity to the frame. The blue wire has continuity from the servo to the servo side of the inline resistor (noise suppressor), but no continuity from the servo the coil side of the resistor. It has continuity from the coil end of the wire to the coil side of the resistor but no continuity from the coil end of the wire to the servo side of the resistor. So, I think the resistor has gone bad, but someone on the other site said my continuity results should be what's expected with the resistor in place. I grounded the purple wire (brake light wire) to make sure it wasn't sending stray voltage to the servo and it still would not set. So, that leaves the blue wire or the servo unit is bad. Any other thoughts?
Murph will sell me a whole wiring harness, but that will cost more than twice what I can pay for 10 resistors, including shipping to fix the blue wire.
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With the cruise turned on and the engine running, does the red LED flash? It should flash faster as you increase engine speed?
That would let you know if the cruise is actually seeing the pulse from the coils. If the LED flashes, then it's not the suppessor.
Other thought is if you think it's the suppessor, cut the blue wire above the suppessor, re-attach the blue wire to the coil and see if the cruise works....With the cruise turned on and the engine running, does the red LED flash? It should flash faster as you increase engine speed?
If it works now, you found your problem. If not, it's not the suppessor. You can resolder the blue wire back together and look for a solution somewhere else.
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Thanks, Jayke. I wasn't aware that the LED flashed with the blue wire pulses. I only saw it flash when pressing the SET or RESUME buttons and the bike was not running, just key to ON. From suggestions on the other site, I was going to check for voltage at the servo end of the blue wire and if there's not, I was going to bypass the resistor, just as you also suggested, and see if that works. Now, that I know that the LED flashes with the blue wire pulses, I won't have to deal with the volt meter or riding to test.
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With the cruise turned on and the engine running, does the red LED flash? It should flash faster as you increase engine speed?
That would let you know if the cruise is actually seeing the pulse from the coils. If the LED flashes, then it's not the suppessor.
Other thought is if you think it's the suppessor, cut the blue wire above the suppessor, re-attach the blue wire to the coil and see if the cruise works....With the cruise turned on and the engine running, does the red LED flash? It should flash faster as you increase engine speed?
If it works now, you found your problem. If not, it's not the suppessor. You can resolder the blue wire back together and look for a solution somewhere else.
I dont think I have ever seen my led flash. My cruise is working, well last time I checked/used it. I will have to look at it next time I ride
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I dont think I have ever seen my led flash. My cruise is working, well last time I checked/used it. I will have to look at it next time I ride
He's talking about the red LED that is on the servo unit. Pretty hard to see when you are riding, unless you did some interesting cruise control mounting.
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He's talking about the red LED that is on the servo unit. Pretty hard to see when you are riding, unless you did some interesting cruise control mounting.
Well you know I do love to tinker with things. LOL yeah that would make a lot more sense :nuts:
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Well you know I do love to tinker with things. LOL yeah that would make a lot more sense :nuts:
Should have thought to add this:
Pretty hard to see when you are riding, unless you did some interesting cruise control mounting. Or a riding position most people would find uncomfortable.
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FIXED IT!! A little background I failed to mention before, I replaced the servo unit, because the cable on the old one was frayed. I had an extra servo, because a few years ago when Autozone was clearing them out, I bought every one within a 50 mile radius and sold them at cost to other COG members, but one was missing the wiring harness, so I kept it. Anyway, I started up the bike and had power on the blue wire at the servo. I hadn't done any testing before with the bike running, only with the key in the ON position.
I figured I'd take apart the unit with the frayed cable (I couldn't break it anymore than it already was) and see if I could easily swap any of it out and found that the circuit board and vacuum valve are self-contained in a separate piece from the cable actuator. So, I swapped out the back end of the servo and, voila, I'm cruising again. So, something in the circuit board or vacuum board is messed up.
Thanks everybody for the help and suggestions.
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What were your symptoms? Sometimes I will be running down the road with it on and it will just kick out. Some days it's perfect, other days it will kickout non-stop. I did some basic debugging but never got anywhere. It's functioning now but I am gonna do a long trip this year (7k miles) and it's invaluable.
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You could be describing my unit. I thought it had something to do with brake switches so I changed out the back, then the front. It seemed like it would work without one of the brakes hooked up but it was so random. My conclusion, after removing it, is that the keypad had gotten wet and then bad or my vacuum line was to soft and collapsing at times. Never figured it out. When I switched to a new to me Connie last fall I put a new one on. Hopefully that will be trouble free.
Wayne
What were your symptoms? Sometimes I will be running down the road with it on and it will just kick out. Some days it's perfect, other days it will kickout non-stop. I did some basic debugging but never got anywhere. It's functioning now but I am gonna do a long trip this year (7k miles) and it's invaluable.
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Mine acts a little different. Started about 3 years ago.
If I don't use it for a long time (months) it will work really well for about 10 minutes. Then, it won't hold the speed I set. It will sometime quickly, sometimes slowly, bleed speed. The only way to make it hold speed is to press the Accel button on the control. It won't accelerate but it stops bleeding speed. The problem began after I got some unexpected acceleration when I set it. That's unsettling. :o But it doesn't surprise me by accelerating anymore.
I figure that the control is cooked from being out in the elements. When I pull $38 together and want to spend the time spicing wire, I'll order another one from Murph.
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Mine acts a little different. Started about 3 years ago.
If I don't use it for a long time (months) it will work really well for about 10 minutes. Then, it won't hold the speed I set. It will sometime quickly, sometimes slowly, bleed speed. The only way to make it hold speed is to press the Accel button on the control. It won't accelerate but it stops bleeding speed. The problem began after I got some unexpected acceleration when I set it. That's unsettling. :o But it doesn't surprise me by accelerating anymore.
I figure that the control is cooked from being out in the elements. When I pull $38 together and want to spend the time spicing wire, I'll order another one from Murph.
Mine will occassionally lose 1-3 mph, but a quick hit of the accel button gets it back to speed. This seems to hapen randomly. Most times it works fine, then out of nowhere, it drops a couple mph. If it happens regularly, it could be a vacuum problem. Do you have a vac can? Possible bleed of of vacuum somewhere?
I get a bump of the throttle when SETting, too. Some folks say it's due to the sensitivity setting being set wrong, but I think it's just bumping the throttle when it's taking up the slack in the cable. It then returns to the speed that I set it at. It's not a big bump, just a slight 1-2 mph blip. I've gotten used to applying a little "reverse" pressure on the throttle grip when I press SET.
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Mine will occassionally lose 1-3 mph, but a quick hit of the accel button gets it back to speed. This seems to hapen randomly. Most times it works fine, then out of nowhere, it drops a couple mph. If it happens regularly, it could be a vacuum problem. Do you have a vac can? Possible bleed of of vacuum somewhere?
I get a bump of the throttle when SETting, too. Some folks say it's due to the sensitivity setting being set wrong, but I think it's just bumping the throttle when it's taking up the slack in the cable. It then returns to the speed that I set it at. It's not a big bump, just a slight 1-2 mph blip. I've gotten used to applying a little "reverse" pressure on the throttle grip when I press SET.
I suppose it could be a vacuum leak. I've checked all the lines. Probably not a lot of money to replace them.