Stebel Nautilus Install pics or tips

[wally_games]

Figured I'd dredge up this old post rather than a new one....

Jeremy, does this placement have any affect of heat dissipation? I have an '11, and the big opening on the side is really the only way for the heat to get out, since everything else is sealed.

Also, got the Stebel from Murphs, and it seems they have added a plastic covering over the entire horn now, which looks to make it a bit beefier/larger and much harder to separate the compressor from the horn. I was going to go this route, but if it's fine down below I'll do that.

I really wanted to separate mine, until I saw the extra plastic that's now on these horns. It's noticiable when you compare your pictures to Jeremy's. I wanted to get that horn down from behind the fairing and pointing more forward, but it's just too big to do that with the compressor still connected.

Will provide pics of my install when I decide exactly where and how I'm going to do it.

[Caffeinated]

A

I've never pulled the lower side fairing to get access to that area. How much of a pain is it? Anything that I should look out for?

Rather than add wire to get back to the battery, couldn't you connect it to the power connections that are hidden under the L/H glove box?

I don't think the accessory leads can handle the power draw. It takes a 15amp fuse to run the horn. Tried a 10amp and it blew.

Real easy to pull the side panels off the 10+ models. Remove the storage box panel, remove a couple of screws and the top side comes off once you release the tab on the bottom.

[wally_games]

I have the Stebel mounted under the right hand side fairing and just need to do the wiring tomorrow. I don't anticipate any issues with that as I bought the wiring harness from Murph when I got the horn.

I took at 4" T-brace, cut off half the top, bent over the other half and mounted this to the two small supports for the heat shielding foam. I would have used an L-brace, but they didn't have one the right size at the Home Deport that I stopped at. A picture is attached.

I then took a small L-brace, trimmed off one leg about half way, and mounted it to the upper rear view mirror bolt. I had to grind off the corner a little due to interference with the structure, but it is a pretty solid attachment point. A picture is attached of that also.

Then I took a piece of aluminum angle, used it to connect the two brackets, and mounted the Stebel to that. It's a pretty stable platform. (The last picture.) The horn doesn't touch the ram air ducting at all. It does look like it will give the rider a pretty good blast when you hit the button, but I'll see how I like it for awhile before deciding if I want to break it into two components and mount the actual horn so that it isn't so confined.

[maxtog]

[quote author=wally_games link=topic=3104.msg90305#msg90305 date=1332054892
-I took at 4" T-brace, cut off half the top, bent over the other half and mounted this to the two small supports for the heat shielding foam.
-I then took a small L-brace, trimmed off one leg about half way, and mounted it to the upper rear view mirror bolt. I had to grind off the corner a little due to interference with the structure, but it is a pretty solid attachment point.
-Then I took a piece of aluminum angle, used it to connect the two brackets, and mounted the Stebel to that.
[/quote]

Damn that is elaborate!  Well, at least you have built the most stable looking mount yet.  I used a single bar of metal and two bolts    Still holding well after 9 months..

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=286.msg25285#msg25285

[wally_games]

Damn that is elaborate!  Well, at least you have built the most stable looking mount yet.  I used a single bar of metal and two bolts    Still holding well after 9 months...

http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?action=post;quote=25285;topic=286.15;last_msg=36736 (first pic)

I did it in three pieces to get the proper level of the mounting point so that the Stebel would clear the ducting.

If I were starting over, I would have probably used a longer piece of the same aluminum angle and done some cutting and bending, but still use all three of the same connection points with just that one piece.

The top mirror nut is too high, so you have to drop down a little to clear the front part of the plastic. The lower mirror nut is too low and doesn't give you the clearance for the Stebel. You can use either one, but you'll have to bend that end to get the proper level. I liked using the heat shield bracket on the back end, but it too was just a hair low.

But one thing is for SURE, this is one dang loud horn! 

[maxtog]

But one thing is for SURE, this is one dang loud horn! 

They are not kidding that you should *NEVER* blast the horn nearby without some kind of hearing protection (helmet, earplugs, or even just fingers).

[Phil]

RE:  Stebel Horn

I have often used Stebel horns on previous sport touring bikes - often by splitting the horn from the compressor, and finding a good location is always the hardest part of the job.  After pulling the panels off of my 2010 Connie, I have come to the conclusion that there is not good place for this.  I looked at putting the horn behind the radiator, like I've noted here, and I think that this is a ridiculous location.  That area makes no sense at all.  It's not only hot as hell, placing the horn anywhere in this area defeats the purpose of having a louder horn - ie. behind the radiator.  Why not just stuff cotton in the horns to muffle them.  Its the same thing. 

I've decided to go with twin, dual tone electric horns and mount them in the same location.  The stock horn really sucks.  If anyone knows of a good dual electric horn that will fit in the location of the existing horn, please message me.  I'm on the hunt. 

[gPink]

I've heard these are good....
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=356