Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C-14, aka Kawasaki Concours-14, the new one :) => The Bike - C14/GTR 1400 => Topic started by: B.D.F. on December 21, 2012, 04:03:48 PM
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So last night the temp. was in the mid- 30's F and I got the dreaded 'Tire pressure sensor battery low' warning. This is on a replacement set of pressure sensors as the originals were replaced for the same reason under warranty. The bike is almost 4 1/2 years old now so it was already unlikely that Kawi would replace the sensors as they state they had an approx. lifespan of 5 years but they also changed their policy and no longer apparently change sensors when the battery warning appears if it will clear itself.
Must be time to install new batteries in the sensors 'Cause buying new sensors is not a reasonable option in my opinion. I'll take photos and post one or two when I do change them.
Brian
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Replaced mine last week for the first time, was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I bought the bike in Nov. 07 so battery life was ok.
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I will be following with great interest as my batteries are now past the 5 years life span. They are still working fine for now but I don't expect them to last much longer. BTW, my 08 now has 93,000 miles.
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Bri,
Your bike is 5 1/2 years old.. I know she 's a young looking 5 1/2 year old but.. :)
Congrats Lather on your mileage... I'm getting close to 90K.... Next year we'll all be over 100,000 !
JJ
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So last night the temp. was in the mid- 30's
I think in weather that cold that is normal.
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Ive been getting the warning for a few miles when temps are below 35* for the rear wheel. Bike is a year old 2011 model .
I figure when I finish off the rear tire i'll take it in. The warning is annoying though.
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Brian,
why not call stop in there and ask them?
Can't hurt, I got mine replaced this year finally, and they didn't question it after they ordered them sight unseen.
I told them that they began working again when I brought the bike in for the install and the brake update, and they just told me
" we have them in hand, so they are going in...." 8)
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Yep, you're right- I forgot to divide by pi when I did the calculation.... :o
Brian
Bri,
Your bike is 5 1/2 years old.. I know she 's a young looking 5 1/2 year old but.. :)
Congrats Lather on your mileage... I'm getting close to 90K.... Next year we'll all be over 100,000 !
JJ
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It does not happen until the bike and sensor batteries have some time and a lot of cycles of use on them. New batteries cure the problem for a couple of years.
Brian
So last night the temp. was in the mid- 30's
I think in weather that cold that is normal.
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Yes, the warning is annoying especially when it happens on both front and rear wheel sensors because each warning must be cleared individually. The button sequence is clumsy enough that doing it twice each time the bike is started, all winter long, makes it worth the effort to replace the batteries. Unfortunately it is a lot less pleasant to dismount and re-mount the tires, as well as removing the wheel from the bike, in the winter than it is when it is warmer out. The catch here is that we don't find out the batteries are getting weak until winter and cold overnight temperatures set in.
Brian
Ive been getting the warning for a few miles when temps are below 35* for the rear wheel. Bike is a year old 2011 model .
I figure when I finish off the rear tire i'll take it in. The warning is annoying though.
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I took a video of mine when the warning was flashing. I brought the video in to the dealer and told him this is too annoying to ride with and they replaced them. Without the video it would be hear say. After it warmed up, they go out.
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. The button sequence is clumsy enough that doing it twice each time the bike is started, all winter long, makes it worth the effort to replace the batteries.
Brian
I didn't know you could clear them, lol
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Yep, this is the sequence:
Press and hold the top button.
Press and release the bottom button (when you release the button the warning will clear and the red 'Warning' light on the top / left side of the dash will illuminate)
Release the top button.
For those folks who a 2010 or later, I believe you can use the button on the left handlebar (the screen toggle button) as the ‘top’ button in the above sequence but have not verified that for sure. I have an ’08 and do not have that display sequence switch there.
This works for any warning the system displays (not errors, just warnings). They are cleared one at a time and the button pressing sequence must be used each time the bike is started to clear all warnings. For example, you can clear the low fuel warning using the above sequence and it will stay clear of the LCD readout until the next time you start the bike (or fill the fuel tank of course).
Brian
I didn't know you could clear them, lol
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And then the bright red light stays on. I think they are both annoying. I do like the feature, because it has saved my hide twice so far.
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Pull the stupid things out! :thumbs:
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Wouldn't it have been great if Kawi had enough foresight so the batteries were accessed from outside the wheel. Just out of interest I am wondering how other manufacturers deal with this.
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Wouldn't it have been great if Kawi had enough foresight so the batteries were accessed from outside the wheel. Just out of interest I am wondering how other manufacturers deal with this.
I think it would have been more interesting if it didn't require batteries at all, perhaps using the motion of the wheel to generate the small amount of power needed. Or if it needs to be internal and sealed, use of an inductive charger on it once a year or something. Or.... attach the leads through the filler valve and use a special valve connector to charge internal batteries. So many options that would be far more convenient and friendly.
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My RAV4 uses that method...no sensors but you have to figure out which tire is low.
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I will be following with great interest as my batteries are now past the 5 years life span. They are still working fine for now but I don't expect them to last much longer. BTW, my 08 now has 93,000 miles.
Il mio connie è 2007/9/28/They are still working .
MGvalerio 8)
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I think it would have been more interesting if it didn't require batteries at all, perhaps using the motion of the wheel to generate the small amount of power needed. Or if it needs to be internal and sealed, use of an inductive charger on it once a year or something. Or.... attach the leads through the filler valve and use a special valve connector to charge internal batteries. So many options that would be far more convenient and friendly.
Some good ideas there Max...how about solar powered?
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Some good ideas there Max...how about solar powered?
That too, damnit!
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My sensors have been temp sensitive for a while now, and took a few miles to wake up. Last ride I got the LO BATT warning from the rear sensor, and had to clear the screen every time. Looks like I'll be attempting to solder in new batteries at next tire swap. :(
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Assuming I don't want a tpms will the wanting go away or stop all together when the batts die completely? Can they be removed to get rid of it sooner? Mine are 4 years old and cold mornings it take alot of warming for them to clear and the two button push in a pain with gloves on. I don't really want or need tpms so if it goes away I'm headed that way.
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Once the battery dies, then the warnings go away.
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And then
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I replaced a TPS battery yesterday with help from this forum, and it was easier than I thought. I haven't had a chance to test it yet as I'm waiting for new 90 degree valve stems, but I can see no reason it shouldn't be just fine.. Here are some pics:
chip
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Thanks for posting. It looks like you unsoldered the old battery from the tabs and soldered the tabs to the new battery? Were you worried that the heat would damage the new battery?
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I was aware of the danger, so the new battery was no where near the area being soldered. I bent the metal connectors so they put pressure on the battery for a solid connection.
chip
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I was aware of the danger, so the new battery was no where near the area being soldered. I bent the metal connectors so they put pressure on the battery for a solid connection.
chip
So the new battery is NOT soldered. Hopefully vibration will not be a problem. I bought some batteries that have tabs but they are not ideally positioned and I have not decided yet wether to use them. I will be eager to hear about your test ride.
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No, I did not solder the battery. There isn't much room for it to move where it is, plus there's that little yellow "spring" thing that presses down on it. It's crunched in there pretty tightly!
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And then
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Followed by:
(http://fp.images.autos.msn.com/Media/425x255/79/79850836450c4e2bac9c6b179e8e935d.jpg)