I know there has been a lot of talk regarding the subject of cruise control and I have searched the forum and read a lot of the posts from the past. I am looking for or hoping for some updated information on the subject (most of the posts I read were from 2012 and back). I have purchased the Rostra CC from Murph's and am waiting for it to arrive. I asked the local Kawi shop what they would charge to install the CC and they want $400.00. I'm not paying $400.00 to have installed so I was hoping for some updated info or advice on installing the cc.

Anyone have any advice on the best way to do the install? I am sure others have installed this on their bikes since 2012 so someone out there must have so good advice on how to do it and how to do it right. Some of the posts are scary to read and others say it's not that bad. I'm not an electrical wizard by any means so that part of it is a bit intimidating. I can follow instructions well but don't want to start something I can't finish. How difficult is it to install? Is it difficult or is it more time consuming than anything?

One more thing, has anyone had someone else do it for them...a mechanic or someone with skills and how much did it cost you to have it done? I'm willing to pay cash to have it done but can't afford $400.00.

BTW, I'm located in So. Cal if anyone is interested.

Mike

I just emailed you a link to some info you will need for the install.

LOL...I saw that. Thank you but that is Chinese to me!

Hellbender,
When your new Rostra arrives, download BDF's (Brian Felice's) instructional tutorial.
It shows everything you need to know (with pics) about the install.

The wiring may look intimidating at first, but his tutorial explains it all well.

Look at it like this; first, it's the mechanical side... Installing the servo unit, the switch, setting up the dip switches, mounting and hooking up the servo cable to the throttle bracket.

Second, wiring it up.

Third, testing, and passing the initial diagnostic tests.

Fourth, test ride, once diagnostic tests pass.

I have installed Rostras now on 5 different bikes.
The C14 is by far the easiest to install. The hardest- BMW RT's.

Do yourself a favor... When ordering the control pad switch, get the one that has BOTH power ON light and the ENGAGED light. Also, you'll need to also order an additional relay, same as the one for the brake. Don't forget to order a mounting pad bracket for the switch.

The first time you do this, plan for it to take most of a weekend.
It usually takes me between 8-10 hours on a connie.

I installed my servo on the LH side, as BDF shows. I also installed my switch on the LH handlebar.
Did this for 2 reasons... 1) all the electrical you need to tie into is on the LH side, 2) I use my LH to use the switch. Also, the throttle linkage is on the LH side.

Others have mounted the servo on the RH, and it will work. YMMV.

Relax, read through Brian's tutorial, lay it all out, and study up first. Then follow it step by step.
You can do this.

If you have questions, we're here for ya, bro.

Once you get this installed and working, it'll be the best farkle you'll ever install on your bike.

About paying someone... If after reading BDF's tutorial you don't think you can do this, I'd be careful about who you choose to install this. This system was intended as a universal CC for a car.
BDF just figured out how to adapt it for a bike, and it works very well.
Labor time is money, and if it's the first time someone tackles this install, it can easily rack up 2-3 days of labor. Also, liability.

If you're like most of us, we prefer to work on our own bikes, for many reasons.
If you do your own, you'll understand it much better, and be more careful than a shop would be.

For me, the one part I had to be real careful about was drilling the hole in the throttle cam on the bike. One of the injectors is right behind this, and you MUST place a piece of metal behind the throttle cam as you drill to prevent the drill bit from going through the cam AND the injector!
Not a big deal, if you have the heads up first, and do this. FYI...

But, if you have some mechanical/electrical aptitude, you can successfully install this.

Bob

... I would be curious how C14lvr installed the unit on the left side on a gen 2 bike. When I did mine 3 years ago it didn't seem like there was enough room...

I found this pic on mounting it to the left side on this link:
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/Rostra%20install.htm

Hi Rhino...
Yes, mine looks exactly like the above picture.
It's tight, but it fits.
I had an air horn installed in my upper right side, so I HAD to put it there! Lol...

When I put the grilled section of the LH fairing back on, it fit perfectly...without a mm to spare.
one of the concerns I had was the heat in that area, affecting the servo possibly.
I was assured it would not by others.
2 years later, still working fine.

But, I hear ya... it is a tight fit there. But it will fit.

The other thing I like about it being there is that if you need to access the dip switches they're right there...easy to read, easy to get to. It's also easier when you first install to see the diagnostic led light.
Bob

What I found most challenging about the installation was the step to secure the end of the actuator cable. 

First challenge is bending the supplied bracket so that the plastic part that the cable end threads into is properly oriented relative to the throttle arm.  It is tight in there and the last thing you need is for the cable to saw through the electrical conduit.  It helps to have a metal vise so you can bend it with some control (I did not have one).

The second challenge is actually securing the bracket to the bike.  In the picture it shows the bracket attached to one of the frame bolts, but if you use that location you cannot put the fairing plastic back on without cutting into some of the plastic.  I did not want to cut into my fairing plastic so I used zip ties to secure it to the subframe member.  Others have fabricated better solutions, which you need to research through these forums,though mine works great so far.  I need to go back in and check how the zip ties are holding up.

Am telling you all of this so you go in with your eyes open.  It is not a difficult job, most of the steps follow BDF's "cookbook" but still the metal bending/securing part does require some problem solving.