Steering Head Bearings

[VodkaAndPickles]

I need to replace the steering head bearings.  Where can I get them?  Is there a better-quality aftermarket set, like Timkens or something?

[George R. Young]

There's a howto in the FAQ:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1320.0

[VodkaAndPickles]

There's a howto in the FAQ:
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=1320.0

Thanks, but I doubt I'll tackle this one.  I think I'll give it to a mechanic; I don't have time or nerves to spare messing with the bike right now.  I was just asking about what good-quality bearings are available.

[Rick Hall]

...  I was just asking about what good-quality bearings are available.

For the most part, all major brands are more than adequate in this application. I would shy away from a set at $1.98 though. OK, I'd run.

Rick

[MAN OF BLUES]

Murph sells quality replacements, or you could just buy OEM....I'd count on replacing the bottom seal at the same time....

[redzgrider]

The All-Balls set I bought are first Chinese quality (i.e. none too iimpressive) and come with a lower seal that won't work with the Connie stem. Bike Bandit gets $58 for O.E. quality, including the lower seal, and $31 for the China.
I wouldn't hesitate to buy O.E. next time.

[Summit670]

Sounds like OEM is the way to go, with seal and all.

What is the approx cost to have a shop replace the bearings?

[VodkaAndPickles]

Sounds like OEM is the way to go, with seal and all.

What is the approx cost to have a shop replace the bearings?

They said probably around $300... sounds about right?

I hate paying that kind of money for this old bike, but it handles like **** and I don't have the time to work on this myself right now.

[redzgrider]

When you say it handles like ****, how do you mean? When my steering bearings were shot, the Brinelling had the steering feeling like it had a detent in the center -- played havoc with slow speed steering. If your's is similar, you really haven't got a lot of choices. If it isn't notchy, then you might just need to re-lube and adjust -- a lot less work and money than replacement. If it is notchy, then I recommend finding the money to have the dealer change them. It's not a small task, requiring complete disassembly of the front end and more.

[VodkaAndPickles]

When you say it handles like ****, how do you mean? When my steering bearings were shot, the Brinelling had the steering feeling like it had a detent in the center -- played havoc with slow speed steering. If your's is similar, you really haven't got a lot of choices. If it isn't notchy, then you might just need to re-lube and adjust -- a lot less work and money than replacement. If it is notchy, then I recommend finding the money to have the dealer change them. It's not a small task, requiring complete disassembly of the front end and more.

Yes, it is notched.  It's noticeable when the bike is on the centerstand and the front wheel is off the ground.

When I say it handles like ****, I mean it doesn't hold a line through a corner well, there is too much effort to turn in (I think; I don't have another Concours to compare to), and in general just doesn't feel planted in cornering.  My last bike had bad steering bearings with similar symptoms (the tires were also bad on that one). 

The problem is worse in the rain.  The bike slips and slides around on a corner in the rain, and I don't know why.  It does have a small oil leak; is it possible that the oil residue that's caught in the belly pan is stirred up by water coming off the road, thrown at the rear tire, and causing the sliding? 

Either way, I do plan to give the bike to the dealer to change the bearings.  I have a feeling there will be a big improvement in handling after it's done.

[redzgrider]

From stuff I've read from SiSF and others, it pays to take a look at the swing arm bearings as well -- something about the tail wagging the dog kind of thing. Seems like a good thing to check with the symptoms you describe.

[T Cro ®]

Yes, it is notched.  It's noticeable when the bike is on the centerstand and the front wheel is off the ground.

When I say it handles like ****, I mean it doesn't hold a line through a corner well, there is too much effort to turn in (I think; I don't have another Concours to compare to), and in general just doesn't feel planted in cornering.  My last bike had bad steering bearings with similar symptoms (the tires were also bad on that one). 

The problem is worse in the rain.  The bike slips and slides around on a corner in the rain, and I don't know why.  It does have a small oil leak; is it possible that the oil residue that's caught in the belly pan is stirred up by water coming off the road, thrown at the rear tire, and causing the sliding? 

A lot of what your describing sounds like Steering Stem Bearings; But I'd also be looking closely at the Swing Arm Bearings, Tires and tire pressure, suspension settings can cause you lots of grief too. Your comment about sliding in the rain really points at the tires though.

[George R. Young]

Alrighty, in the interests of frugality.

The notchiness may come from old, dried grease, rather than wear of the bearings. It might pay to clean them up in situ with some solvent, then regrease and adjust for zero slop to see if the notchiness goes away.

[VodkaAndPickles]

A lot of what your describing sounds like Steering Stem Bearings; But I'd also be looking closely at the Swing Arm Bearings, Tires and tire pressure, suspension settings can cause you lots of grief too. Your comment about sliding in the rain really points at the tires though.

Yes, I'm pretty sure it's steering head bearings, as my previous bike had the same symptoms with bad bearings.  I also get a really bad tankslapper decelerating from 50-40 mph on this one. 


Tires should be good though; they're Avon Roadriders, installed in June.  The back is a bit squared off from straight line riding, but should these tires act this way in the rain?  God, I never feel confident cornering on this bike, although I was really getting some serious lean angle on the Blue Ridge Parkway when I rode it in July (haven't scraped the pegs on this bike yet; kind of afraid to actually).  The tires were practically brand new then.

Tire pressures are 40 rear, 36 front, and suspension settings are about 7.5 front (still need to get an accurate gauge) and somewhere in the mid-20s at the shock (forget exactly what I pumped it up to).  I weight 150 lbs.

[RFH87_Connie]

Low front air pressure is causing your tank-slapping (I'd bet).  Put it up to 40, with 40-42 in the rear to see if it goes away.  My RoadRider is starting to wear on the sides at about 3-4k on it and will shimmy a little bit if the pressure drops below about 37-38 lbs.  Still sticks good though.

When it gets a little low it just doesn't "feel" good anymore.  A little air, in it is fine again.  I guess the tread kind of rolls over (squirms) on low pressure in the turns.

Edit:  In case you need to know, I weigh about 200 lbs, I think I have my shock set at about 40 lbs because I do a lot of 2-up riding.  If it is just me for a long ride (all day or longer), i'll set it to 35 lbs.  The forks are 5" cut-off from stock springs with 15w oil.

[VodkaAndPickles]

Low front air pressure is causing your tank-slapping (I'd bet).  Put it up to 40, with 40-42 in the rear to see if it goes away.  My RoadRider is starting to wear on the sides at about 3-4k on it and will shimmy a little bit if the pressure drops below about 37-38 lbs.  Still sticks good though.
[/i]

Doubt it.  The headshake has been there since I got the bike, when it had different tires.  It's pretty violent, and not just a shimmy.

[RFH87_Connie]

Ok.  I re-read the entire post.  It sounds like you have always ran what some would consider low tire pressures and have had a shimmy problem.  Have you yet tried to snug the head bearing, torque the swingarm bushings, and increase the tire air pressures?  The head bearing only take a few minutes to do and doesn't actually require special tools.  A hammer and drift punch, or good screwdriver or bar stock, works well when all of the bolts are loosened.  Just snug them until they have a very slight resistance feel to turn.  The front wheel will no longer flop side to side when lifted of the ground and pushed either left or right.  Set the pressure to 40 in front and 42 in the rear.  At least 30 lbs (maybe even 35) on the rear shock and max on the forks.  All of this would be free and might solve your problems.  Worst case, it causes no change (or maybe makes it worse) and proves something mechanical is wrong which in fact may be the steering bearings.

Don't forget about wheel bearings either.

[Roadhound]

Your head shake and your bad steering head bearings are both caused by the same, your steering head bearings have been on the loose side for some time.
Adjusting them properly will eliminate the head shake but will not correct the notchy feeling in the steering. New bearings and proper adjustment will take care of most of your problems. As others have stated you would be wise to clean grease and properly adjust your swing arm bearings while have the bike down for the steering head bearings.

[michelsmith]

If you have a bike that has a shock spring adjustment tool it is the exact same thing. If you have one, see if it fits before you buy another tool.