Motor Oil Type

[pasini510]

Hi,
I used to use Rotella Synthetic in my Super Hawk and worked great . I found some Mobile 1 5 w-40  Turbo Diesel oil and changed it right before storage.
Think this is OK ?  Or should I dump it before I ride this spring
It says rated API,SM,SL/SJ for gasoline engines.

[VirginiaJim]

It's been a day or two without any discussion on oil.  I guess it's time.   

[ZedHed]

It's fresh, why not use it?  Don't overthink these things......

[lt1]

Low post count.  Starts oil thread.  Sounds like a troll.

OTOH, this could just as easily be a legit thread, so why not? 

As for storage, IMHO, the cheapest oil is fine.  I would have no qualms using straight-weight dino oil for storage, but I would drain it before firing the bike up in the spring.

The significant difference between Rotella (T and T6) and other diesel oils is the JASO MA certification.  I am not aware of any other  diesel engine oil carrying the JASO MA cert. 

My practice:
API certs per the manual or newer
JASO MA cert
Weight range per the manual
Oil filter change every oil change
Stay close to recommended mileage intervals - not over, not much under
I have started to add about 1 oz ZDDP/cam lube to the oil
No "energy conserving" oils

Since the weather where I live is amenable to year-round riding, I do not have to deal with the storage issue.  I doubt that you would have an issue with the  Mobile 1 5 w-40  Turbo Diesel oil if you run it 3k or less and then switch back to a "proper" oil, but I would not run it in my bike.

[Pokey]

Sure........go for it.

[stevewfl]

Rotella T6 Flavor and KiPass, the winning combo! 

[Summit670]

Rotella T6.

I was using Mobil 1 15-50 for many years but the last few have been Rotella.

[PH14]

Hi,
I used to use Rotella Synthetic in my Super Hawk and worked great . I found some Mobile 1 5 w-40  Turbo Diesel oil and changed it right before storage.
Think this is OK ?  Or should I dump it before I ride this spring
It says rated API,SM,SL/SJ for gasoline engines.

No, drain it immediately, change the filter, then fill it up with kerosene and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolution, Make sure the spark plugs are out when you do this and plug the spark plug hokes with rubber plugs with a one way valve on them which will prevent debris from being sucked in, but will allow a little pressure to be released. Be sure to get the rubber plugs rated for the proper pressure, you don't want it to release too easily at too low a pressure or the kerosene won't circulate throughout the engine. I don't have the specs in front of me but if you Google it you should be able to find it.

Once you have done this, drain the kerosene from the bike, remove and replace the filter, remove the rubber one-way valve plugs and remove the valve cover and wipe everything in there down. While you are in there it would be a good idea to adjust the valves since you already have it apart.

Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Once that is done, pour in new oil a little at a time through the spark plug holes. Make sure the cylinder you are pouring it into is at the bottom of its stroke, put that plug back in and turn the engine over to force the oil through the system, this will be a little bit difficult, remove that plug and move on to the next cylinder, repeat the process until you have the bike filled with oil. Now, reinstall the rubber one-way valve plugs and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolutions. Once you have done this you need to heat up the oil so it will drain properly. Do not start the engine to do this. Place a space heater under the engine making sure to have at least 4 1/2 inches of clearance between the heater and the engine. Place a thermometer into the oil filler hole and wait until the temperature is at approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit.

Now, drain the oil, replace the filter and fill the bike up with fresh oil. Make sure you use the proper oil this time and not diesel. oil. 

Replace your spark plugs with new ones, replace all the bodywork and ride.
   

[lt1]

<snip>

Sounds like somebody has a really bad case of cabin fever.

[Conrad]

No, drain it immediately, change the filter, then fill it up with kerosene and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolution, Make sure the spark plugs are out when you do this and plug the spark plug hokes with rubber plugs with a one way valve on them which will prevent debris from being sucked in, but will allow a little pressure to be released. Be sure to get the rubber plugs rated for the proper pressure, you don't want it to release too easily at too low a pressure or the kerosene won't circulate throughout the engine. I don't have the specs in front of me but if you Google it you should be able to find it.

Once you have done this, drain the kerosene from the bike, remove and replace the filter, remove the rubber one-way valve plugs and remove the valve cover and wipe everything in there down. While you are in there it would be a good idea to adjust the valves since you already have it apart.

Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Once that is done, pour in new oil a little at a time through the spark plug holes. Make sure the cylinder you are pouring it into is at the bottom of its stroke, put that plug back in and turn the engine over to force the oil through the system, this will be a little bit difficult, remove that plug and move on to the next cylinder, repeat the process until you have the bike filled with oil. Now, reinstall the rubber one-way valve plugs and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolutions. Once you have done this you need to heat up the oil so it will drain properly. Do not start the engine to do this. Place a space heater under the engine making sure to have at least 4 1/2 inches of clearance between the heater and the engine. Place a thermometer into the oil filler hole and wait until the temperature is at approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit.

Now, drain the oil, replace the filter and fill the bike up with fresh oil. Make sure you use the proper oil this time and not diesel. oil. 

Replace your spark plugs with new ones, replace all the bodywork and ride.
 

 

Time for some decaf man.

[PH14]

Time for some decaf man.

Decaf?!!

[Conrad]

Decaf?!!

I know, I know. I feel the same way.

[jjnorc]

No, drain it immediately, change the filter, then fill it up with kerosene and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolution, Make sure the spark plugs are out when you do this and plug the spark plug hokes with rubber plugs with a one way valve on them which will prevent debris from being sucked in, but will allow a little pressure to be released. Be sure to get the rubber plugs rated for the proper pressure, you don't want it to release too easily at too low a pressure or the kerosene won't circulate throughout the engine. I don't have the specs in front of me but if you Google it you should be able to find it.

Once you have done this, drain the kerosene from the bike, remove and replace the filter, remove the rubber one-way valve plugs and remove the valve cover and wipe everything in there down. While you are in there it would be a good idea to adjust the valves since you already have it apart.

Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Once that is done, pour in new oil a little at a time through the spark plug holes. Make sure the cylinder you are pouring it into is at the bottom of its stroke, put that plug back in and turn the engine over to force the oil through the system, this will be a little bit difficult, remove that plug and move on to the next cylinder, repeat the process until you have the bike filled with oil. Now, reinstall the rubber one-way valve plugs and turn the engine over by hand 100 revolutions. Once you have done this you need to heat up the oil so it will drain properly. Do not start the engine to do this. Place a space heater under the engine making sure to have at least 4 1/2 inches of clearance between the heater and the engine. Place a thermometer into the oil filler hole and wait until the temperature is at approximately 180 degrees Fahrenheit.

Now, drain the oil, replace the filter and fill the bike up with fresh oil. Make sure you use the proper oil this time and not diesel. oil. 

Replace your spark plugs with new ones, replace all the bodywork and ride.
 

This should be removed before someone actually tries it.

[VirginiaJim]

Ok everyone, PH14 was just kidding.  This isn't a real maintenance procedure, at least not in this world.  Nothing to see here, go on about your business. 

[PH14]

Ok everyone, PH14 was just kidding.  This isn't a real maintenance procedure, at least not in this world.  Nothing to see here, go on about your business.

 

[Conrad]

Ok everyone, PH14 was just kidding.  This isn't a real maintenance procedure, at least not in this world.  Nothing to see here, go on about your business.

Dammit Jim! Now you made me miscount on the number of revolutions I was up to. I filled her with kerosene and was up to about 59 revs. Now I have to start all over.

[VirginiaJim]

Why don't you pick me up a couple of packs of muffler bearings while you're at it.

[stlheadake]

Why don't you pick me up a couple of packs of muffler bearings while you're at it.

Jim is there a specific brand you recommend?  I'm heading up to the parts store soon!  I'm confused with this kerosene method.  Should I use synthetic, or dino?  Is in absolutely necessary to rotate the air in the tires too?  I've tried to cycle the air, but I'm not sure I'm getting it all out, but I'm pretty sure I get it all in....

[VirginiaJim]

Echlin...they make the best.

[JerBear]

C'mon guys play nice.  As far as I can tell he is for real (not a Troll).  Perhaps he just wanted to ask a question just to start up a conversation and being new to this board doesn't know the taboo subjects yet (Oil and filters are two of them).  I'm just figuring out how vital it is to use the search function before posting but I had to learn the hard way too.

Hint to pasini510: this board is full of invaluable info and a sharp wit or two.