Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: ZG RIDER on May 22, 2012, 02:54:35 AM
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Hey all,
I'm wanting to send my carbs to SiSF for the mod work and exhaust cam gear. I cant stand the 1st and 2nd gear sputter and lurch! however I cant find any info on removing the carbs here or elsewhere! I even looked up the pdf kawasaki service manual and it only gives general "advice" on keeping dirt out of the system while removing and not "how to" remove. I'm confident that removing my carbs from the C-10 shouldn't be a problem. I just hate to hack into the project with no instruction whatsoever. Can anyone direct me to a link on "how to' or offer a general description and possibly a list of any specialty tools/techniques needed to perform this procedure?
I'm just going to guess here but I assume remove seat, tank, unbolt air box, loosen boot clamps, remove cables, hoses and then pull/push real hard to one side to remove?
Even close?
Any help will be greatly appreciated!! 8)
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I am in no way an expert or even knowledgeable about the subject, but this might help you. As for sending your carbs to SiSF, as far as I am concerned it is the only way to go.
http://www.cog-online.org/clubportal/clubstatic.cfm?clubID=1328&pubmenuoptID=30890 (http://www.cog-online.org/clubportal/clubstatic.cfm?clubID=1328&pubmenuoptID=30890)
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An "adjustment" to the procedures in the above link for removal, you can disconnect the throttle cables at the throttle housing on the handlebar, then that way you do not have to mess with the tight quarters of the cable ends on the carbs themselves. just my preference
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Remove Seat
Remove Tank (draining fuel makes handling the tank much easier)
Loosen clamps on front of carbs
If your machine is older, and how old I can't say, but the rear carb boots may be pretty stiff if older. Warm boots with blowdryer to help.
Remove choke cable at the carbs.
I agree it may be easier to remove throttle cables at handlebar but I've done it at the carbs a few times. If you remove at the bars, take a few pics of how they are routed and connected to the throttle.
Eyeball your water pipe connections to the rear of the cylinders for leakage. If your bike is older (age?) you may want to replace those o-rings too while the carbs are out. I've got to go back in to replace mine and I'm foolish for not doing it while carbs were out, but my bike is an 87.
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Seat and tank (plus hoses and electric connections) then I loosened the cables at the carbs only.The boot springs don't really have much tension, but I took off what I could. Loosened the airbox but that gained little, but it might be helpful. Took a bit of lateral force to get them going, unhooked the cables as room would alow, or as it came out. Loosen everything you can and then get a little angry to get thing moving. I was trying to finness them out untill I got pissed enough. Stupid rubber boots on both sides do hold it in there pretty good. :)
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The clamps on the front side too, my bad.
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Mine went to Steve too. I opted for the lower rpm tune as well, with the overflow tubes installed also. My bike purrs like a kitten from idle.
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Thank you gentlemen!
I like to do things right the first time and your advice will certainly help!
Ill have Steve work his magic and then "Smooth sailing" 8) :chugbeer:
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If your carb boots are stiff you might want to get new ones, will make carbs go back on easier.
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I've not tried it, but the old KZ forum used to recommend using petroleum jelly (vaseline-like stuff) on them to soften the rubber.
Just DO NOT confuse it with naval jelly! :o
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I've not tried it, but the old KZ forum used to recommend using petroleum jelly (vaseline-like stuff) on them to soften the rubber.
Wrong rubber!
Just buy new ones.
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This may be obvious, but this might be your first go-round with this.
TIP: Always remove the side covers BEFORE removing the tank or else you are to likely scratch them with the tank's lower ears on removal - re-installation.
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And a side note - those rear boots are pretty darn tough.
I bought new ones for my 87 2 years ago so I figured I'd just tear the old ones out and make carb removal easier.
I grabbed the old ones with pliers with the intent of tearing them out and really abused them and they didn't tear, even though they were old and stiff.
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Zip ties can be one of your best friends during installation as well. After reading all the posts about what a hideous job it could be, I was dreading the installation of mine after getting them back from SISF :hail: after he put overflow tubes in for me (highly recommended)! I used a series of zip ties through the air box to hold the boots in a "rolled back" position and the install was easy peasy! A few snips with side cutters after you have the carbs back in and you're well on your way.
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I've not tried it, but the old KZ forum used to recommend using petroleum jelly (vaseline-like stuff) on them to soften the rubber.
Just DO NOT confuse it with naval jelly! :o
Bad Idea IMHO. Petroleum jelly will actually dry out your rubber making it even more brittle. This si why you should never use petroleum based products as an o-ring lube.
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Bad Idea IMHO. Petroleum jelly will actually dry out your rubber making it even more brittle. This si why you should never use petroleum based products as an o-ring lube.
That's right. When installing an 'O' rings your supposed to use engine oil or sometimes a light grease.... wait?? :o
Aren't those petroleum products???
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I don't *know* what effect it'll have since, like I said, never tried it. If they're bad enough they won't come loose tho', worth a try. Otherwise you'll need to replace 'em anyway. Stiff boots either won't seat right or will take a couple heat cycles to settle in.
Temperature does make a big difference. On a cool morning I couldn't budge 'em so bought new ones. Tried it in the afternoon the following weekend and found them good enough to reuse and returned the new ones. Note: NO hair drier, just 10-20F warmer.