Kawasaki Concours Forum
The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => Accessories and Modifications - C10 => Topic started by: CRocker on May 16, 2011, 05:03:25 PM
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I'm in the middle of trying to get my (used) Storz adapter and bars on my '88...I'm drilling the holes for the locating nubs in the switch assy's...I'm ready to start on the right-hand side when I notice there is already a hole there..that's cool, I thought...but, when I get the switch assy in the correct position...so that the nub on the housing is in the hole...I find that the PO drilled the hole too big...any suggestions? I'm thinking JB Weld and re-drilling the correct size hole...the hole is large enough to let the RH switch rotate about 1/4"-1/2" when both screws are tightened...any help would be appreciated!
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JB-Weld should work fine for something like that.
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JB will work, but have you tried tightening down the switch housing (with the nub in the oversized hole) on the handlebar? You may find that the clamping is enough to hold the housing in position. Some people who replace their handlebars with tubular bars have removed the nub, rather than drilling a new hole, and just relied on the clamping force to hold it on. Just a thought.
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JB will work, but have you tried tightening down the switch housing (with the nub in the oversized hole) on the handlebar? You may find that the clamping is enough to hold the housing in position. Some people who replace their handlebars with tubular bars have removed the nub, rather than drilling a new hole, and just relied on the clamping force to hold it on. Just a thought.
Gary,
Yes, I have tried that...as I stated in the OP, it still allows 1/4" - 1/2" when the screws are tightened...to a point where I am unwilling to tighten any more! I'm just not OK with the throttle tube moving that much...it's easy enough to let the JB set-up and re-drill...anyway, the forecast shows lots of rain for the next few days...
Thanks, guys, for the votes on JB Weld...it's in process now!
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Sorry, should have read the entire OP :nuts: . That's a big hole, to allow it to rotate that much! Another option is to use packing tape to shim the handlebar. Still the epoxy will work fine.
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I used a couple wraps of electrical tape to make up the size difference without issues for two+ years.
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Sorry, should have read the entire OP :nuts: . That's a big hole, to allow it to rotate that much! Another option is to use packing tape to shim the handlebar. Still the epoxy will work fine.
BTDT...thanks!
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I'm running Murph's bar adapters for tubular bars, and have on both old Conni's, there is no reason to mess with a clearance hole for the dowel pin in the switch assembly ever, when I installed, I installed the switch assembly loosely, and placed a small socket on the back of the housing, over the dowel pin, and tapped it gently with a hammer, displacing the dowel pin out from the switch housing till it fit the bars. the pin remains tightly held in the housing, albeit displaced, and can be returned to use at a later date if so desired.
To insure the switch housing does not scare you, simply place 2 wraps of plastic electrical tap around the bar in the area the switch housing clamps onto, it will never revolve when tightened. Been running mine like that for years. Even with an oversized hole, the tape will offer wayyyy more than enough grip to prevent movement.
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I can't tell you guys how much I appreciate the advice on this issue! Something has come up, though...THESE BARS ARE BENT!!! ARRGH!!! Go ahead...pass me the dunce hat! When I get new bars I'm gonna go with MOB's suggestion...it just seems so much easier (especially with the Miller WSB weekend approaching fast)...can't believe I didn't notice!
Again...thanks guys... :-[