Kawasaki Concours Forum

The C10, aka Kawasaki Concours - The Original => The Bike - C10 => Topic started by: amigoride on December 26, 2016, 11:35:47 am

Title: Petcock Rebuild
Post by: amigoride on December 26, 2016, 11:35:47 am
Time to pay some attention to petcock/fuel delivery. My petcock is weeping a tiny amount of fuel at the position lever.
Can anyone provide some feedback on the OEM petcock kit from Murph?
Title: Re: Petcock Rebuild
Post by: DC Concours on December 26, 2016, 11:43:56 am
OEMs are what most recommend you go with.

These are usually not reliably rebuildable. you can try but your best bet is to buy a new one. First determine exactly where the leak is coming from? Gravity distorts the location easily.

Title: Re: Petcock Rebuild
Post by: 2fast on December 27, 2016, 06:44:00 pm
Petcocks can definitely be rebuilt. I wrote an article on this years ago and it is in the COG library if you are a member.
Title: Re: Petcock Rebuild
Post by: jim snyder on January 27, 2017, 10:26:13 am
The other option is the Pingel fuel valve. A quality piece.
Title: Re: Petcock Rebuild
Post by: mellow yellow on April 11, 2017, 08:58:31 am
just rebuilt my petcock the second time. I don't know if it's the fuel or the rebuild kits I buy on line. straight forward. Don't need an engineering degree. My bike is an 05 with over 99,000 miles on it.
Title: Re: Petcock Rebuild
Post by: jacksdad on March 08, 2018, 11:34:14 am
You can buy genuine diaphragm repair kits 43028-1015, currently £10.24. This is the part that often splits and lets petrol into the carbs and floods the engine which then hydro locks and basically destroys the engine  :-[
When you rebuild the fuel tap, use the genuine kit as above, and also replace the spring 92081-1171  £1.75. Some people then suggest stretching the spring a little, to increase the pressure on the diaphragm. The original spring rusts and collapses. another cause of fuel leak.
I think that some people don't replace the spring, which then gives the impression that the diaphragm is still leaking, making them replace the whole tap.
I also flatted off the aluminium parts of the tap, using 1000 wet n dry paper on a sheet of glass, with water, to ensure a perfectly flat face on each piece. I covered the faces with a black ink pen/sharpy. and then rubbed them down lightly until all the black ink was removed.
The tap now works perfectly, but I still check for leaking fuel before starting up he motor!