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Replacing the battery isn't hard. I know a guy that needed both batteries, he studied the process and did one of his last Thursday. I went to his house Friday and we did his other one, both of mine, and both of a friends in a few hours. No tire machine, just a few tire irons and rim protectors (4 hands helps) and you're only removing 1 side anyway to allow access to the sensor. Mark the tire/wheel with blue painters tape before starting, align the tape when you remount the tire and you won't have to worry about rebalancing.
That's not too bad if it's out of warranty.
For Sale / Re: Cardo PackTalk Bold Duo Set
« Last post by CRocker on Today at 06:42:26 pm »
Price lowered to $299 shipped CONUS...
well, the long and short of this, is;

Yes, if it is saying bad battery, the unit is played out... i.e., no it ain't registering "---" on the dash, but it' hot, power wise...

NOW, comes the dealership, and their participation... we have seen many just turn customers away... basically flipping the bird to them... unacceptable....  and even "lying" to the covered customer, without ever lifting the phone to make a call... I hope ALL those dealerships disolve into dust.

you have an extended KPP plan, you ARE covered... however, you will likely get a new style enor... no big deal, the new ones have a larger ampacity batt already installed, and should lat better than 5 years. (even tho they are not replaceable like the gen 1 version, if you decide to do it on your own)

I had mine replaced, on my '08, which was purchased 7-7-07, in late 2012 (10-2012), under my extended GTPP/ KPP... with no issues, in a different state from my original purchase... I made a call, explained my need, and they called me back after ordering the parts without even seeing/leaving the bike, to have me come in and have them done when the parts showed up 4 days after I called.   Dealers can hose you down, or they can be good people... lets hope your dealer is the latter of the 2.

But, a far a "Kaw" is concerned, with a KPP, it IS covered... replacement due to age of some "projected 5 year value" that was originally noted, as normal battery life on pre '13 models, does not come into the equation with KPP.

call, schedule, have them replaced, cost free.. if you need tires... well, add those in, you get free mount and balance but you pay their tire price if you buy their tire... and they can jack you again, if they are determined.  (so buy tires online, and carry them in also... be prepared to take your old ones home with you tho, they charge for "old tire disposal"   ::)
I cannot say with certainty but it seems that Kawasaki is mostly following the already- stated five- year battery lifespan regarding warranty replacement. So they will replace the sensor(s) <generally> if the bike is under warranty and it is w/in the 5 year span of time. I doubt they will replace the batteries on the sensors of an '11 at this time as it is well beyond the 'expected' life of the batteries.

In some cases Kawasaki has denied warranty coverage claiming that the sensor is merely showing a warning and has not actually failed. I think they have a valid point here, not to say that that is the correct way to respond, only pointing out that there is legitimacy, IMO, that the sensor has not really failed.

Just my opinion though and you can certainly ask a dealer....


My front sensor will show pressure, then screen is covered with the “low battery F sensor “ warranty for five minutes, then finally shows pressure.
It is a ‘11 with 36k miles, I bought with Good Times extended three year warranty, I reupped it a second time so it’s still in effect. It’s the original sensor.
I need tire sensor replaced , will it be covered under Good Times warranty ?

Yes.  As long as you can show the dash warning to the staff, it is covered by the original warranty and also the factory extended warranty.  This includes covering of unmounting the tire, and remounting and re-balancing the wheel.  Taking a photo of it can be helpful.  Note that when the batteries are just starting to get weak, the warnings will only appear in colder weather, and might only last for a short time.  As the battery gets worse, it will start warning even in warmer weather, and/or for longer times (until you never get any reading).

But be warned, it will be replaced with the newer design sensor.  The newer sensor has a better battery, that lasts longer than the old ones.  But it is also "potted" in epoxy, making it extremely difficult (or nearly impossible) to open the unit and replace the battery.  If you have no intention of ever trying to replace the battery yourself, then it is nothing to worry about.

Tip: If you are still under warranty, and will need a tire soon, most dealers will cut you a break (or charge you nothing) on the mounting/balancing of a new tire, since the warranty will pay them for those procedures, anyway.
My front sensor will show pressure, then screen is covered with the “low battery F sensor “ warranty for five minutes, then finally shows pressure.
It is a ‘11 with 36k miles, I bought with Good Times extended three year warranty, I reupped it a second time so it’s still in effect. It’s the original sensor.
I just received an email from Fred
And he can change the batteries
in the new sealed Sensers for $92 including
2day insured Shipping
The Bike - C10 / Re: petcock leaking again
« Last post by MAN OF BLUES on Today at 12:26:23 pm »
Now...if the fuel is shut off how do the carbs over flow? There is no fuel flow.
I guess peacocks al and shutoff valves aren't needed.

Flame away.

well, for one thing, it's not just a "single" point failure.... i.e., fuel shutoff only....
Part 2 is a float needle tip not sealing against it's seat...

So, with all 4 floatbowls completely full of fuel, and the line running up to the fuel shuttoff also full of fuel, even tho the gas is "shut off"; if #1 piton is at the correct point, and intake valve opened, and the bike is sitting on the side stand, bike leaning over at an angle AND 3 float bowls now sitting progressively higher than the lowest one... #1..
with #1 float valve needle is not sealing..... fuel WILL flow from the remaining 3 carbs, back to the lowest point, #1 bowl.... AND, seeing as the bowl "vents" are routed up and behind, well above the carbs, fuel will flow up, and into the #1 intake, until the point the 3 remaining carbs, and fuel line, have dropped below the level of the carb bore/throat... ...
I've had it happen a couple times times on one of mine...  once it locked, and when the starter was hit a second and third time, it did start... and spit rich fuel out the exhaust.... another time it just topped rotating... and did not turn over...did I bend a rod...? I dunno, never looked... but the engine DID refuse to turn over, until I removed the plugs, and cranked it to remove the fuel from the piston area.
The Bike - C10 / Re: petcock leaking again
« Last post by Daytona_Mike on Today at 09:29:39 am »
If the engine turns over and starts it didn't hydrology. Key word...LOCKED..
It ALMOST locked but didn't. Still bent the rod but didn't lock.
I am not sure what your trying to say. Maybe you are saying this:

The engine  turned over and bent a rod and also started  all at the same time means you hyrolocked the 'piston'.
 You do not have to stall/ lock up  the entire  engine to hydrolock a piston.( sometimes the engine will stop cranking but not all the time- this is why many do not even know they hydraulically locked a piston and bent that piston's connecting rod.)

The engine starting or not starting and/or locking or not locking  the entire engine or bending or not bending  a rod  are  not compulsory  to the   piston being hydrolocked from raw fuel in the cylinder. It is still a hydrolock event.. hopefully the result is NOT a bend rod.
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