or is it?If you paid some tech to do that, at a Kaw dealer, and paid then $400 bucks.. and he told you "fixed".....well, we all know what follows that one
now, tell us all what exact wire was the culprit, .

I was confused about who has the bike now. I misread it as the bike got sent home from the shop and the owner was on his own. Going through the manual is a daunting task. I don't know how the shop would approach this issue given that they can't determine the problem.

I meant to add more about how I should have been able to diagnose this broken wire.

If the KIPASS signal relay had no power, would it make sense that the bike shuts down and the then only displays the key icon? I did have that condition at least a few times. Typically I could turn on the key though. I don't know enough about how it works to determine if this could be a similar problem as rar's.

In my case it was one of the white wires. I did not actually determine which one it was, but the white wire I think it was looks to go to fusebox #3 from the steering lock. It then appears to become a red wire that returns to the KIPASS signal relay. That is the relay I heard clicking. For some reason I thought the white wire goes to the steering lock, but it make more sense that it comes from there.

The KIPASS signal relay is under the left dash panel. You should be able to measure it for power without too much trouble. The steering lock connector is also under that panel. In hindsight, I could have measured the wire at the steering lock, the fusebox and the signal relay to diagnose this broken wire. Testing the KIPASS signal and the steering lock is covered in the manual. Hopefully Rar will be able to find out what they have checked already.

So,

moving to central Texas. (Fort Hood/Killeen)

Amazing as we're native Texans but have not lived here since the late 80's when I began my now ended military career.

Where are the good roads?

Appreciate that m109 article. Man that is sweet and unique. I was just going to spend 3k or so on a zx14 engine kit. But the concours 14 has better torque at much lower rpm.

well that's all settled.. problem fixed... please report on the "reliabiity" of what you just did, and longevity until the next no-op.

Yeah, that is my concern.  For me, such "fixes" with electrical stuff never last long.

What ultimately solved my problem was just pushing around on the wires under the gas tank with the key on. Pushing on the grounds under the tank would make the gauges move. I massaged wires and got super lucky because I hit a spot that would make the bike turn back on in the large loom on the left under the tank. That loom was very easy to unseal and inspect, but you would need to expect to be able to reseal it somehow with tape or adhesive.

well that's all settled.. problem fixed... please report on the "reliabiity" of what you just did, and longevity until the next no-op.


or is it?

I see my mistake. Question answered😊

If you paid some tech to do that, at a Kaw dealer, and paid then $400 bucks.. and he told you "fixed".....well, we all know what follows that one
now, tell us all what exact wire was the culprit, .