GTR1000 - A5 - Front suspension - Air Balance pipe seals

[Bill_M]

Hi, I am hoping that this is the right place to post this request for help.

I've had my GTR1000 for 20 years and love it to bits. BUT, I found, a while back, that I was getting air seepage from the seals on the balance pipe. Hence I was having to pump up the front suspension every day and it only lasted for a short while. Apparently they have hardened and now no longer seal correctly.

I have tried to get new seals for the balance pipe but the dealers in South Wales (I am in Aberdare) tell me that this part (the seal) is now discontinued. I have tried to make my own seals but failed and I tried to fit a generic seal that was as close as I could ascertain from the original seals dimensions. Failed again. I have also tried other methods of sealing the holes and so remove the balance pipe altogether but this has also proven to be a waste of time.

My question is:- Any ideas where I can get the right seals for this?  Has anyone else had this issue?

Thanks,

Bill

[MrPepsi]

Bill, you've come to the right place. Someone will be along very soon. I'm sure they are not discontinued, but even if they are, someone on here has solved this issue. Welcome to the forum. 20 years? What took you so long to join?

[MAN OF BLUES]

part number
92055-1106 RING-O,FORK AIR TUBE
 4   req'd.  $3.44 each  (on sale currently)

while you are at it, you should also replace the O-rings that seal to top caps on also
92055-1052 RING-O,FORK TOP   2 req'd

http://www.ronayers.com/Front-Fork-C406962.aspx

http://www.ronayers.com/

[Bill_M]

Hi MrP....

Don't know really...... I suppose I've just been able to sort any issues out without using the internet.

I didn't know this forum existed until very recently. I think perhaps I should've looked for it a long time ago!!

20 years is because I'm a big chap and I like to ride quick, plus I have learnt how she/it will behave in various conditions. I'd have to start all over again if I traded it in for a different bike........ I've tried a few (not 1400GTR) and they don't compare with the "feeling" I get from the GTR1000. I've not ridden a 1400GTR as I know I'll love it but I can't afford it  - so I will wait....

I really hope I can get a answer to my issue from someone here....

Bill

[MAN OF BLUES]

look above your post.....

[MrPepsi]

part number
92055-1106 RING-O,FORK AIR TUBE
 4   req'd.  $3.44 each  (on sale currently)

while you are at it, you should also replace the O-rings that seal to top caps on also
92055-1052 RING-O,FORK TOP   2 req'd

http://www.ronayers.com/Front-Fork-C406962.aspx

Nice MOB, there you go Bill!
http://www.ronayers.com/

[Bill_M]

 

Thank you for the help...... MrPepsi and MOB, very much appreciated.....

I have sent Ron Ayers an email requesting how to ensure they can be shipped to the UK.

Really pleased I can still get the bits....

Thanks again,

Bill

[MrPepsi]

People on this forum are awesome, well except for me that is.
I imagine if Ron Ayers can't ship it to you, someone on here could arrange to make sure you get the parts you need. Truly can't be that expensive to ship to the UK.

FYI: You don't need to use your e-mail address as a username unless you want to. Might be a better idea to shorten that up a bit.

[gPink]

People on this forum are awesome, well except for me that is.
I imagine if Ron Ayers can't ship it to you, someone on here could arrange to make sure you get the parts you need. Truly can't be that expensive to ship to the UK.

FYI: You don't need to use your e-mail address as a username unless you want to. Might be a better idea to shorten that up a bit.

No sense in helping the NSA. 

[Bill_M]

Ha Ha...... how right you are......

I had a reply back from Ron Ayers.......... you will not be able to guess just how gutted I am....

""
I am sorry but the part in not available in the US. They have stoped making the part. You will have to find someone that has it in stock to get the parts.

Thanks,

RonAyers.com Parts
parts@ronayers.com
800-888-3084 option 1

    From: Bill Molton [mailto:billmolton@yahoo.co.uk]
    To: parts@ronayers.com
    Sent: Wed, 11 Sep 2013 11:12:18 -0400
    Subject: Delivery to UK for GTR1000 (Concourse) parts?

    Hi,

    I have a 1989 (A4) GTR1000 which I understand is identical to the US Concourse.

    I post a request for help onto a GTR forum and had this information sent back to me.

    part number
    92055-1106 RING-O,FORK AIR TUBE
    4 req'd. $3.44 each


    Please could you let me know how much it will be for the parts to be shipped to the UK?

    I would require 6 of the seals as I understand I should replace the top cap ones too and they are the same seal.

    Thanks.

    Bill Molton

    http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=15104.new#new

""

[MAN OF BLUES]

Bill, sorry Ron Ayers couldn't help you, I checked a couple other common Concours sources we have here, no luck...
they still show as active on Kawasaki's parts lists for both the Concours and the Voyager models.
The last time I bought those was around 2006, and they were available then.
I think I may have a couple in my parts bins; I will get back to you if and when I do, even if I had an old one (which I always save when I replace stuff) I could measure it, and convert it to a common O-ring number.

the other alternative, which I highly recommend over dealing with the air assist forks, is to replace the springs themselves with Progressive Springs form our merchant Murph
Murph's kits
http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_97&products_id=52

they are affordable, and when installed, there is no further need for the air assistance. Then, you could basically place a strip of rubber cut from an innertube around the area on the fork where the crossover existed, and install a hose clamp, this will prevent oil loss.
I personally installed those springs in 2 of my pre 94 model bikes, and they improve the ride dreastically, without having to spend a ton of money.

make sure you check for messeges, and keep that feature enabled here, I'll get back on the orings a.s.a.p.

[Bill_M]

Hi MOB,

Thank you, that is really good of you.

One of my attempts was to do exactly as you suggested with the inner tube rubber and clamp...... I couldn't stop the air from leaking out. It would, as you suggest, stop the oil if it wasn't under pressure.
I like the tip regarding the springs...... something I will investigate further.... thanks.

Take care,

Bill

[connie_rider]

As I recall Kawasaki used the O-ring number in their part number. 92055-1106  
I haven't looked at O-Ring numbers recently, so my memory is off. But I think the aftermarket O-Ring dash number would be 106.
If so Bil, you could take that number and go to any company that sells O-rings.. (Or contact a GCE Club member in the Eu).
I'm sure Boomer could help you out...

Ride safe, Ted

[enim57]

Options available to you:
1) take the O rings to a good industrial supplier and they should be able to supply new ones.
2) upgrade the springs (and preferably dampers) and forget about the air and remove the balance pipe. The hole in the fork can be blocked using existing clamp with a bit of thin rubber under it. Do a search on this site there are lots of posts about this.

Regards, Russell

[T Cro ®]

If this is but a mere hole in the fork leg why not simply tap the hole to the closest screw or bolt thread and trim the length so that it does not protrude in and interfere with the springs? You could apply a small amount of sealant to the threads so as to not worry about air or oil loss.

Myself I'd go with straight weight springs over progressive springs any day to help qualm brake dive and then be done with the air fluff altogether; air ride belongs on a tractor truck not a motorcycle.

[MAN OF BLUES]

He's dealing with a pre94 machine, the simple and affordable alternative using Progressive springs from Murph will be like night and day difference. Folks teling him to go straight weight, and emulators, and all that expensive stuff, which are a premium price to get shipped over the pond, ain't helping this fellow on a budget. It's clear he isn'in the mode to spend a lot of money to upgrade, so my suggestions have an affordable solution, which will notably fix the problem, and offer a much better ride than he is getting now.
As for tapping the holes and sealing them with setscrews, the orings he has now will likely seal the tube with the spring retrofit, there will be zero pressure on them. Doing the setscrew thing leaves a chance of driving it too far in, and having it rub the springs. The wall thickness is barely an 1/8 inch, the hole is about 3/16 (#10-32 screw)
I wouldn't do it. A piece of innertube and a hose clamp will suffice.

[enim57]

My preference would be for straight rate springs and I don't think there is much of a price difference (is there?). If money is tight and he has reasonable skills and tools he could try cutting off the closely wound section of his existing springs and fit a longer spacer, there is a post on this somewhere. Having ridden with air for all these years doing this may suffice.
The existing O rings may still leak without additional air due to compression of the forks. I think this should be fixed for the small price it would cost.

Regards, Russell

[T Cro ®]

He's dealing with a pre94 machine, the simple and affordable alternative using Progressive springs from Murph will be like night and day difference. Folks teling him to go straight weight, and emulators, and all that expensive stuff, which are a premium price to get shipped over the pond, ain't helping this fellow on a budget. It's clear he isn'in the mode to spend a lot of money to upgrade, so my suggestions have an affordable solution, which will notably fix the problem, and offer a much better ride than he is getting now.
As for tapping the holes and sealing them with setscrews, the orings he has now will likely seal the tube with the spring retrofit, there will be zero pressure on them. Doing the setscrew thing leaves a chance of driving it too far in, and having it rub the springs. The wall thickness is barely an 1/8 inch, the hole is about 3/16 (#10-32 screw)
I wouldn't do it. A piece of innertube and a hose clamp will suffice.

MOB Surely if there is a Progressive spring to be had a straight rate spring can be found too?

I only asked if the hole could be simply & effectively plugged; if not well then don't do it... Many times as a boat engineer we have to re-engineer to get equipment back up and running without shore-side support for parts and such....

[Bill_M]

Hi,

Thank you for the replies, I will be looking into better springs for sure, they are originals at the moment and so my reliability on additional support through air.

I would be interested to know if anyone has made a MIG Weld over the hole on the fork tube? I understand the wall thickness is thin but is it too thin to be sealed with a weld?

I failed with my inner tube rubber and clamp but that was me expecting to seal against air loss. I like the solution with a better spring installed.

Hope you have a good weekend,

Bill

[Summit670]

Seems I've read that some people cut off 4-6" of the softer windings (the close wound ones?), then they make a spacer from PVC pipe that is either the same length as what they cut off, or a little longer, then reassemble.  This eliminates need for air pressure?   The only concern I have with doing this is getter the tube caps reinstalled without crossthreading them. 

As for the holes, I'm thinking either used the cured RTV that ends up in the applicator tube, cut the end off, and insert the little cone shaped piece into the hole, then a tire patch size piece of rubber over that, then a hose clamp.  Or, just clean the hole, put a dab of RTV, then cover with patch and clamp.

Aren't the OEM seals just O-rings and can't a comparable size be found somewhere like auto parts store, bearing shop or internet?