Author Topic: Free power!  (Read 38352 times)

Offline tradrockrat

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #30 on: November 13, 2015, 12:17:07 pm »
That's what this weekend is all about - I don't winterize because I ride all year, but I do a spring and winter tuneup to all my bikes every year.  Valves are good, spark plugs are 3000 miles old, air-cleaner needs replacing, and carbs really need a full overhaul - doubt they've ever been rebuilt or overhauled in 28 years.  I'd like to send them out to shoodaben, but I can't have my bike down that long.


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Offline RFH87_Connie

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #31 on: November 13, 2015, 01:05:21 pm »
Trying not to hi-jack the thread here.  Besides cleaning every orifice perfectly, and the float needle seats in perfect order, the fuel height is critical to performance and fuel economy.  Search the forum and you can find it all. The main takeaway is to set the fuel level in the bowl right at the body/bowl seam line.  For idle and sync, where the butterfly plate meets the lower half of the outlet venturi, you are looking to expose the first half edge of the first hole of the tiny ports inside the venturi if I recall correctly.  Start another post for this if you have more questions.
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Offline Steve in Sunny Fla

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #32 on: November 13, 2015, 01:36:32 pm »
That's what this weekend is all about - I don't winterize because I ride all year, but I do a spring and winter tuneup to all my bikes every year.  Valves are good, spark plugs are 3000 miles old, air-cleaner needs replacing, and carbs really need a full overhaul - doubt they've ever been rebuilt or overhauled in 28 years.  I'd like to send them out to shoodaben, but I can't have my bike down that long.
[/quote

How long do you think they'd be down? I ship usps priority, and turn around in 3 days or less. Steve

Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #33 on: November 13, 2015, 02:20:44 pm »
Trying not to hi-jack the thread here.  Besides cleaning every orifice perfectly, and the float needle seats in perfect order, the fuel height is critical to performance and fuel economy.  Search the forum and you can find it all. The main takeaway is to set the fuel level in the bowl right at the body/bowl seam line.  For idle and sync, where the butterfly plate meets the lower half of the outlet venturi, you are looking to expose the first half edge of the first hole of the tiny ports inside the venturi if I recall correctly.  Start another post for this if you have more questions.

glad someone reads my stuff...
thank you..
 8)

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Offline tradrockrat

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #34 on: November 13, 2015, 09:10:35 pm »
That's what this weekend is all about - I don't winterize because I ride all year, but I do a spring and winter tuneup to all my bikes every year.  Valves are good, spark plugs are 3000 miles old, air-cleaner needs replacing, and carbs really need a full overhaul - doubt they've ever been rebuilt or overhauled in 28 years.  I'd like to send them out to shoodaben, but I can't have my bike down that long.

How long do you think they'd be down? I ship usps priority, and turn around in 3 days or less. Steve

Steve - I ride mine daily as a commuter.  As the weather turns cooler, I'll be willing to pull the carbs and ship them to you for the full treatment, but my other rides are a 78 SR500 and a 98 Dodge van.  One is too damn small for commuting and the other gets 13MPG.  And honestly, we here in Austin wait all damn year for October and November - best months of riding we get, IMHO.

Meanwhile, I have pulled side plastics and tank off, and - after finishing the free power mod that last owner started -I relocated the reserve coolant tank to under the seat and went to pull the air filter and discovered that there is an actual wine bottle cork shoved into the top of my airbox... Someone please tell me there is a reason for this besides that the last owner was an alcoholic???


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Offline T Cro ®

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #35 on: November 14, 2015, 04:17:03 am »
... and discovered that there is an actual wine bottle cork shoved into the top of my airbox... Someone please tell me there is a reason for this besides that the last owner was an alcoholic???

Sounds like the PO removed the system that pulls clean air from the box and injects it into the exhaust system to help burn off/dilute unburnt fuel. This is a very common mod as it does nothing to help mileage or otherwise improve performance and just gets in the way. If you look at your valve cover you will notice a couple of blank plates covering up the reed valves that were the heart of this system.
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Offline tradrockrat

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #36 on: November 14, 2015, 06:14:17 am »
Sounds like the PO removed the system that pulls clean air from the box and injects it into the exhaust system to help burn off/dilute unburnt fuel. This is a very common mod as it does nothing to help mileage or otherwise improve performance and just gets in the way. If you look at your valve cover you will notice a couple of blank plates covering up the reed valves that were the heart of this system.

Ah -  My reed valves have the original caps still - I need to check to make sure the PO actually capped them inside somehow.  From the looks, they're sitting open to the world.


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Offline T Cro ®

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #37 on: November 14, 2015, 08:41:17 am »
Ah -  My reed valves have the original caps still - I need to check to make sure the PO actually capped them inside somehow.  From the looks, they're sitting open to the world.

Well that wouldn't be the end of the world. The system was fairly passive to start with in that it included no pump or method of injection it merely allowed air to be sucked into the exhaust and reed valves prevented reverse flow. If I recall correctly on my bike I found a way of taking the reed valves apart and putting them back together in a different order to seal them shut.
Tony P. Crochet
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Ask me about a set of Stick Coils & Harness or Precision Shift Linkage for your C10 Concours

Offline George R. Young

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Re: Free power! resistance measurement
« Reply #38 on: November 14, 2015, 02:10:42 pm »
So I watched the video and it's cool and rainy in Ottawa today, what better time to investigate this idea in the garage.

My digital ohm-meter lowest scale is 200.0 ohms. With the meter leads shorted, it reads 0.6 ohms.

With one lead on the black/yellow igniter terminal and the other on the battery negative lead, it also reads 0.6 ohms. If the bike wire resistance was greater than 0.05 ohms, the meter would read 0.7.

It looks like on my C10, the bike wire resistance is pretty low already. Maybe on other bikes the resistance is higher.
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Offline Steve in Sunny Fla

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #39 on: November 14, 2015, 03:40:47 pm »
George, what voltage does your bike show at idle? almost every bike I ever checked was 12.8 to 13.2V
 After adding the new ground wire, the idle voltage is 14.3V. This has really been the case with every bike I've done. Steve

Offline George R. Young

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #40 on: November 14, 2015, 07:49:16 pm »
Hello Steve,

The bike has a digital voltmeter (and thermometer)
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/volthermometer.htm
and the voltage reads around 14.2 at all engine speeds.

Maybe Canadian bikes are different.
65 CB160 (67-69), 69 350GTR (69-72), 72 R5, 73 RD350 (73-84), 82 XZ550 Vision (84-03), 01 Concours C10 (03-), 89 EX250 (11-14), 00 SV650S (14-16)

Offline Steve in Sunny Fla

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #41 on: November 15, 2015, 09:28:00 am »
Hello Steve,

The bike has a digital voltmeter (and thermometer)
http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/volthermometer.htm
and the voltage reads around 14.2 at all engine speeds.

Maybe Canadian bikes are different.


  George, your bike has excellent ground paths and nothing to be gained from the extra wire except to add as a redundant path in the even the current path is compromised. Your results are certainly dis-similar to almost all the rest of the connies out there. I know with that efficiency in the electrical system your bike starts, idles and rev's better than most out there; This may account for times when you read of guys having this or that issue, and you think to yourself "mine isn't like that"... you're lucky, because most guys don't know how well a c-10 can run till they really iron out these little gremlins that most c-10s have. steve

Offline RFH87_Connie

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #42 on: November 16, 2015, 05:18:19 am »
glad someone reads my stuff...
thank you..
 8)

No, THANK YOU!  I have a PDF of it and read it just before I do each time just as a reminder.
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Offline bob h

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #43 on: November 16, 2015, 10:19:06 am »
George, my measurements are a close match yours.  This is on a 1988 stock C10 in decent condition with a good battery.

Voltage drop between igniter black/yellow wire and battery negative is about .3 - .4 volts while idling at 1100 rpm.  I also tried connecting a 14 gauge wire between the igniter ground direct and the battery negative, and found no effect, other than eliminating most of the .3 - .4V drop at the igniter ground terminal.

Battery is at about 14.4V at any rpm above about 1200, (45 deg F) measured with both a digital and an analog multi-meter.

Offline Dricardo1

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Re: Free power!
« Reply #44 on: May 08, 2016, 05:02:15 pm »
  George, your bike has excellent ground paths and nothing to be gained from the extra wire except to add as a redundant path in the even the current path is compromised. Your results are certainly dis-similar to almost all the rest of the connies out there. I know with that efficiency in the electrical system your bike starts, idles and rev's better than most out there; This may account for times when you read of guys having this or that issue, and you think to yourself "mine isn't like that"... you're lucky, because most guys don't know how well a c-10 can run till they really iron out these little gremlins that most c-10s have. steve

Steve,
Just completed your "Free Power" mod, and WOW!  Thanks for sharing.  Embarrassed to say I cut the yellow w/ black tracer at first, instead of the opposite. She runs very nicely, now :D