Started a valve adjustment

[kzz1king]

Well after researching, reading all I could here and elsewhere, and bought a used set of the videos I started taking it apart. I have the crash bars and most of the plastic when I started to reconsider.I have a lot of time (long winters here) and a heated shop. I am pretty mechanically inclined and do all my own maintenance on past bikes.
It comes down to trusting another human being. I bought the bike used sight unseen. The seller was very upfront, did maintenance himself. The shop manual came with the bike and had a paper of the gaps. I called the PO and he said he would not check them for a while yet. I can tell with the farkles he has added (cruise, steibel horn, crash bars, headlight modulator, extra fuse box) that he has worked on the bike. 41,000 on it now. I am trying to talk myself out of it!  ?

[martin_14]

I am trying to talk myself out of it!  ?

Strictly answering your question? Yes.
My advice: nothing wrong with it, listen to your self.

[maxtog]

It comes down to trusting another human being.

Yep, or a dealership.  Both can be difficult with something that is complicated, costs a lot of money in labor, and can be partially or 100% faked without any outward sign or proof of work.

I am trying to talk myself out of it!  ?

Like Martin said- sounds a lot like you are trying to talk yourself out of it and maybe you should listen to yourself.    But if you start hearing voices in your head and start talking to yourself, then maybe you should stop listening to yourself. 

BTW- thanks for posting the sheet with the mileage and clearances.  Although "your experience may vary", it is not uncommon to see such maps that show no (or little) adjustment necessary at the recommended interval.  Is the sheet true?  Who knows!  We can't answer that.  Who is a "PO"?  If you trust the sheet, then you absolutely should not check them again anytime soon.  If you don't trust it, then it is past time, but not insane.

[MAN OF BLUES]

tough call...
you mentioned talking to the OP, did he say he adjusted them, or merely inspected and those figures were what he measured at the time?

2 years, and 10k miles have been put on since that map you showed, and seeing as they only measured to 3 decimal places, who knows?
did they jamb a .005" feeler in and say it was .005", or was it a slip fit?
makes a big difference, especially with them all sitting at that low end on intakes.
the exhaust side looks ok, but then again, things change.
I used feeler stock and measured mine to 4 decimal places also
I did my initial inspection, and decided to stretch a bit longer, and when I did the second inspect about 8k later, the following spring, I had a substantial group of them that were at or below the min limits... which surprised me somewhat...

I you have the time, and a nice heated workspace, it's not a bad project...  and come springtime you'll be ready to roll without interruption... for a god long time.

[kzz1king]

tough call...
you mentioned talking to the OP, did he say he adjusted them, or merely inspected and those figures were what he measured at the time?

2 years, and 10k miles have been put on since that map you showed, and seeing as they only measured to 3 decimal places, who knows?
did they jamb a .005" feeler in and say it was .005", or was it a slip fit?
makes a big difference, especially with them all sitting at that low end on intakes.
the exhaust side looks ok, but then again, things change.
I used feeler stock and measured mine to 4 decimal places also
I did my initial inspection, and decided to stretch a bit longer, and when I did the second inspect about 8k later, the following spring, I had a substantial group of them that were at or below the min limits... which surprised me somewhat...

I you have the time, and a nice heated workspace, it's not a bad project...  and come springtime you'll be ready to roll without interruption... for a god long time.

Some good points. The guy said he just checked clearance. The other thing is he never new what the bike would do. I on the other hand like to wring it out now and again so that may increase wear. I also need to do the o ring fix. I also figured that when I am done I most likely will never do it again.Being I have everything ready to go I think I will do it. Stuff like that tends to hang in the back of my mind and nag me. I want happy valves when I hit the redline
Wayne

[kzz1king]

Believe it or not I have been wrong before

Strictly answering your question? Yes.
My advice: nothing wrong with it, listen to your self.

[kzz1king]

The sheet came in the manual. The PO did it so I cant vouch for the it.
Wayne

BTW- thanks for posting the sheet with the mileage and clearances.  Although "your experience may vary", it is not uncommon to see such maps that show no (or little) adjustment necessary at the recommended interval.  Is the sheet true?  Who knows!  We can't answer that.  Who is a "PO"?  If you trust the sheet, then you absolutely should not check them again anytime soon.  If you don't trust it, then it is past time, but not insane.
[/quote]

[maxtog]

The other thing is he never new what the bike would do. I on the other hand like to wring it out now and again so that may increase wear.

I actually think it is good for an engine to be pushed to high revs every now and then... if not more often.  Maybe to keep things operational, clear out deposits and such?  Of course, that is just a belief with probably no easy empirical evidence.... but I don't care because it is a great excuse to zoom to 120MPH in lower gears which is FUN!   

[VirginiaJim]

Believe it or not I have been wrong before

 

I actually think it is good for an engine to be pushed to high revs every now and then... if not more often.  Maybe to keep things operational, clear out deposits and such?  Of course, that is just a belief with probably no easy empirical evidence.... but I don't care because it is a great excuse to zoom to 120MPH in lower gears which is FUN!   

That's what the Kawi tech said to me at the last valve adjust..
 

[O.C.]

I actually think it is good for an engine to be pushed to high revs every now and then... if not more often.  Maybe to keep things operational, clear out deposits and such?  Of course, that is just a belief with probably no easy empirical evidence.... but I don't care because it is a great excuse to zoom to 120MPH in lower gears which is FUN!   

  Agreed 

[kzz1king]

Works for me! Mine should last forever then!

I actually think it is good for an engine to be pushed to high revs every now and then... if not more often.  Maybe to keep things operational, clear out deposits and such?  Of course, that is just a belief with probably no easy empirical evidence.... but I don't care because it is a great excuse to zoom to 120MPH in lower gears which is FUN!   

[PlaynInPeoria]

Good for it, bad for it, I'm gonna do it either way.  That's what I bought it for.

But I believe they make them so they can run them for days at redline with no harm.  With fresh oil and filter and warmed up appropriately, of course.

[B.D.F.]

I wonder what oil would be best for multi- day, redline running?

:-)

Brian

Good for it, bad for it, I'm gonna do it either way.  That's what I bought it for.

But I believe they make them so they can run them for days at redline with no harm.  With fresh oil and filter and warmed up appropriately, of course.

[gPink]

I wonder what oil would be best for multi- day, redline running?

:-)

Brian

Amsoil, no doubt.

[seagiant]

Amsoil, no doubt.

Hi,
        Yep! Ha!

[maxtog]

I wonder what oil would be best for multi- day, redline running? :-)

OMG!  Noooooooooooooo!!!!!

[Riverszzr]

Well after researching, reading all I could here and elsewhere, and bought a used set of the videos I started taking it apart. I have the crash bars and most of the plastic when I started to reconsider.I have a lot of time (long winters here) and a heated shop. I am pretty mechanically inclined and do all my own maintenance on past bikes.
It comes down to trusting another human being. I bought the bike used sight unseen. The seller was very upfront, did maintenance himself. The shop manual came with the bike and had a paper of the gaps. I called the PO and he said he would not check them for a while yet. I can tell with the farkles he has added (cruise, steibel horn, crash bars, headlight modulator, extra fuse box) that he has worked on the bike. 41,000 on it now. I am trying to talk myself out of it!  ?

You say you have plenty of time
You say you have a heated clean area to work in
You say it is a new to you purchase and the information supplied is questionable at best
You say you have mechanical aptitude
You say you have the service manual

Get to doing the proper adjustment already........ there is absolutely no reason not to!

[Rhino]

I wonder what oil would be best for multi- day, redline running?

:-)

Brian

Trouble maker!!! 

[kzz1king]

Almost to the fun part. It is obvious the PO has been in there before. A couple of missing bolts in the fairing stays, a zip tied stick coil connection and a leaky valve cover. This is a pain in the kiester! I have determined that naked C14 will never be too popular.

[JerBear]

Thank you very much for that for that pic. I never realized how much room you would have if the radiator was out!  It will definitely be removed my next adjustment, by that time the coolant will need to be changed anyway!  Installing that black plastic shield front/center was a real pain with the radiator still there.