Author Topic: Petcock Rebuild  (Read 2115 times)

Offline amigoride

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Petcock Rebuild
« on: December 26, 2016, 11:35:47 am »
Time to pay some attention to petcock/fuel delivery. My petcock is weeping a tiny amount of fuel at the position lever.
Can anyone provide some feedback on the OEM petcock kit from Murph?
Thanks!

Offline DC Concours

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Re: Petcock Rebuild
« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2016, 11:43:56 am »
OEMs are what most recommend you go with.

These are usually not reliably rebuildable. you can try but your best bet is to buy a new one. First determine exactly where the leak is coming from? Gravity distorts the location easily.


Offline 2fast

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Re: Petcock Rebuild
« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2016, 06:44:00 pm »
Petcocks can definitely be rebuilt. I wrote an article on this years ago and it is in the COG library if you are a member.
Brian in Minnesota
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Offline jim snyder

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Re: Petcock Rebuild
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2017, 10:26:13 am »
The other option is the Pingel fuel valve. A quality piece.
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Offline mellow yellow

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Re: Petcock Rebuild
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2017, 08:58:31 am »
just rebuilt my petcock the second time. I don't know if it's the fuel or the rebuild kits I buy on line. straight forward. Don't need an engineering degree. My bike is an 05 with over 99,000 miles on it.

Offline jacksdad

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Re: Petcock Rebuild
« Reply #5 on: March 08, 2018, 11:34:14 am »
You can buy genuine diaphragm repair kits 43028-1015, currently £10.24. This is the part that often splits and lets petrol into the carbs and floods the engine which then hydro locks and basically destroys the engine  :-[
When you rebuild the fuel tap, use the genuine kit as above, and also replace the spring 92081-1171  £1.75. Some people then suggest stretching the spring a little, to increase the pressure on the diaphragm. The original spring rusts and collapses. another cause of fuel leak.
I think that some people don't replace the spring, which then gives the impression that the diaphragm is still leaking, making them replace the whole tap.
I also flatted off the aluminium parts of the tap, using 1000 wet n dry paper on a sheet of glass, with water, to ensure a perfectly flat face on each piece. I covered the faces with a black ink pen/sharpy. and then rubbed them down lightly until all the black ink was removed.
The tap now works perfectly, but I still check for leaking fuel before starting up he motor!