Author Topic: H4 LED Fitment  (Read 17796 times)

Offline mikeyw64

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #80 on: March 10, 2017, 05:42:45 am »
Hi Max

I'm going to use your original pics (and when it comes to LH/RH I'm referring to looking at the bike unless stated otherwise)

In this pic you can see the kick that I would expect if your reflector is the same as the Chinese one  ie it has the shaped section on the LHS same as my UK bike but not as exaggerated, ie a subtle kick up to the LHS as you ride the bike.

On the RHS the HID iss overpowering it and you cant see any kick on the RHS of the reflector (which is where the RH reflector has its shaped section unlike my UK bike where it is on the LHS)

Have you got a pic with paper on of both LEDs installed as suspect the net effect of one side having a left kick and the other side of having a right kick will (or should) give a net effect of a flat cut off.

On my UK bike because both reflectors have the shaped section on the LHS of the reflector the net effect is that there is a distinct kick to the left hand side as you sit on the bike


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Offline mikeyw64

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #81 on: March 10, 2017, 05:44:08 am »
Sorry, I misread what you said earlier (probably because I should have been asleep).  No, it is impossible that it would be need to set differently between the two headlights/reflectors (left and right).  We can't do that on H4 halogen bulbs nor HID bulbs and there is no kick on either of those.  No other bulbs have rotation adjustment (that I know of).  The LED bulbs will need to match what the other bulbs do if they expect to match the same pattern (which is my goal.... I don't even want a kick, and if there is one, it needs to be small and on the correct side).

Hence my comment about if needs be setting both to a neutral position.

It may well be that the universal headlight which you appear to have would benefit from dfferent settings each side :)
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Offline maxtog

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #82 on: March 25, 2017, 08:50:36 pm »
I tried both sides of 7 (7.5 and 6.5) and both ways I am getting a beam pattern with a kick on the left both ways which is not what I should have.  At 7.5 it was a so-so pattern with a wrong-for-me left kick.  At 6.5 it is a very poor pattern (no clean cutoff) and a wrong-for-me left kick.  With the HID and halogen bulbs I get no kick at all. 

When I get a chance I will be trying every position in a slow rotational sweep to see what is happening.  My current theory is that these reflectors are extremely sensitive to rotation and can only form reasonable patterns with certain, exact positions.

I FINALLY got warm enough weather and time and opportunity to do the rotation test.

MYSTERY SOLVED
.  And the cause of all the problems?  "7" is *NOT* neutral, even though it is the exact middle number.  8 is!  As I predicted, the reflectors are INCREDIBLY sensitive to rotation.  Even though I tried 7.5 originally, moving it to 8 made all the difference in the world.   Just 1/2 a notch.  I now have super sharp cutoff, perfectly horizontal, with no freaky pattern, no stray light, and no glare.  MUCH, MUCH better pattern than the HID it replaced.

My recommendation for anyone who needs to experiment with these bulbs, unplug one side, then take the other out completely and loosen the two bolts holding it from rotating, put it back in without the heat sink, start the bike, shine it on a large white wall, and VERY SLOWLY turn it from one direction to the other and watch how quickly the pattern goes insane and make note of the correct spot.  when you turn off the bike, using a flashlight you can see the numbers by looking at the bulb through the front lens.  Then take it out and readjust it to that, bolt it down tight, and reassemble (with boot and heat sink, of course) and do the same with the other (they will be identical in setup/indicator number).  I wish I could have taken a video to show it, but didn't have enough help or time.

I will add that although I was already unhappy with the 5000K color in principle and "look" of these bulbs, I think the CRI (color rendering index) is also too low, so everything under this type of light looks less colorful and harder to see.  I will add that as a plus for halogen and HID (if I didn't already).

Also, I could test the heatsinks.  They do get warm, but even after being on a hour riding, then sitting still for 5 minutes, I can place my hand on them with no discomfort.

Will update previous posts for those who follow in the future.
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Offline mikeyw64

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #83 on: March 26, 2017, 01:21:16 am »
So that's a 9/10 then :)
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Offline just gone

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #84 on: March 27, 2017, 08:32:24 am »
I just wanted to verify something and make sure my assumptions are correct.
 When you are adjusting these LEDs and changing the "tilt" it is simply rotating the LEDs and not actually Tilting the LED housing front to rear (raising or lowering) but rather simply spinning the LED holder in the housing so that if there where a clock face in the housing that (in the extreme) one LED side might be in the 8 O'clock position and the other LED side would be in the 2 O'clock position (in the same reflector).

The reason I ask is, I have the older Evitek LEDs that I was going to try and modify for rotation even though their LEDs aren't shaped as well as these G6 LEDs are. 

Most don't notice this (although Brian has mentioned it more than once), the C14 reflector housing throws down a "Clearance"  light pattern down on the left and right of the bike so that two
 six-eight inch light strips of illuminated pavement are present. When following a bunch of C14s at night it is very striking and noticable. When I went to HIDs, the pattern was consistent with the halogen pattern only much much brighter and noticeable. When I went to the LEDs the pattern was spit into at least 3 strips on each side and not near as noticable. I am curious max' if you noticed what the pattern from yours looks like after you adjusted the rototation?

Offline mikeyw64

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #85 on: March 27, 2017, 10:02:42 am »
I just wanted to verify something and make sure my assumptions are correct.
 When you are adjusting these LEDs and changing the "tilt" it is simply rotating the LEDs and not actually Tilting the LED housing front to rear (raising or lowering) but rather simply spinning the LED holder in the housing so that if there where a clock face in the housing that (in the extreme) one LED side might be in the 8 O'clock position and the other LED side would be in the 2 O'clock position (in the same reflector).

The reason I ask is, I have the older Evitek LEDs that I was going to try and modify for rotation even though their LEDs aren't shaped as well as these G6 LEDs are. 

Most don't notice this (although Brian has mentioned it more than once), the C14 reflector housing throws down a "Clearance"  light pattern down on the left and right of the bike so that two
 six-eight inch light strips of illuminated pavement are present. When following a bunch of C14s at night it is very striking and noticable. When I went to HIDs, the pattern was consistent with the halogen pattern only much much brighter and noticeable. When I went to the LEDs the pattern was spit into at least 3 strips on each side and not near as noticable. I am curious max' if you noticed what the pattern from yours looks like after you adjusted the rototation?

Correct , its rotating the LEDs within their own housing.

The 3 arms slot into the standard H$ fitments and with the screw loosened the inner body rotates
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Offline just gone

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #86 on: March 27, 2017, 11:28:14 am »
Correct , its rotating the LEDs within their own housing.

The 3 arms slot into the standard H$ fitments and with the screw loosened the inner body rotates

Thanks! :thumbs:

Offline maxtog

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #87 on: March 27, 2017, 03:37:57 pm »
I just wanted to verify something and make sure my assumptions are correct.
 When you are adjusting these LEDs and changing the "tilt" it is simply rotating the LEDs and not actually Tilting the LED housing front to rear (raising or lowering) but rather simply spinning the LED holder in the housing so that if there where a clock face in the housing that (in the extreme) one LED side might be in the 8 O'clock position and the other LED side would be in the 2 O'clock position (in the same reflector).

As Mikey said, correct.  You are rotating the bulb.  My advice with these bulbs is to find neutral (now it appears to be "8") and leave it there.

Quote
Most don't notice this (although Brian has mentioned it more than once), the C14 reflector housing throws down a "Clearance"  light pattern down on the left and right of the bike so that two
 six-eight inch light strips of illuminated pavement are present.

I have noticed that before and I didn't realize that was actually intentional or served any useful purpose (although I speculated a bit about it and then dismissed the thought).  So ultimately my conclusion was it is just stray light.

Quote
When following a bunch of C14s at night it is very striking and noticable. When I went to HIDs, the pattern was consistent with the halogen pattern only much much brighter and noticeable. When I went to the LEDs the pattern was spit into at least 3 strips on each side and not near as noticable. I am curious max' if you noticed what the pattern from yours looks like after you adjusted the rototation?

I didn't specifically look for it.  I will try to remember the next time I ride and will report back.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline just gone

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #88 on: March 27, 2017, 10:59:28 pm »
I have noticed that before and I didn't realize that was actually intentional or served any useful purpose (although I speculated a bit about it and then dismissed the thought).  So ultimately my conclusion was it is just stray light.

I didn't specifically look for it.  I will try to remember the next time I ride and will report back.

I assumed it was intentional but I'm not sure of any useful purpose, other than we could use it to compare lighting...that is (and the reason for my question) to see how close these alternative lighting systems come to the original focal point of the reflector by comparing these stray light/clearance light spots on the ground. Probably best just to look at them in the garage at night. When seated on my bike, I have to lean out to either side to see them.

Offline gPink

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #89 on: April 02, 2017, 04:43:33 pm »
<snip

My recommendation for anyone who needs to experiment with these bulbs, unplug one side, then take the other out completely and loosen the two bolts holding it from rotating, put it back in without the heat sink, start the bike, shine it on a large white wall, and VERY SLOWLY turn it from one direction to the other and watch how quickly the pattern goes insane and make note of the correct spot.  when you turn off the bike, using a flashlight you can see the numbers by looking at the bulb through the front lens. snip >

Max, why are you starting the bike?
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Offline maxtog

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #90 on: April 02, 2017, 04:51:48 pm »
Max, why are you starting the bike?

So the headlights will come on.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline gPink

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #91 on: April 02, 2017, 06:11:49 pm »
The headlights don't care if the engine is running or not. Bump the starter without starting the engine. The headlight relay will trip.
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Offline maxtog

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #92 on: April 02, 2017, 08:01:52 pm »
The headlights don't care if the engine is running or not. Bump the starter without starting the engine. The headlight relay will trip.

True, but I was messing with it for a long time and didn't want to drain the battery.  Of course, being LED, I forget they don't pull as much.  Looking back at it, I bet that would have made more sense.  Oh well, there is always next time!
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Offline olie

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #93 on: July 29, 2019, 05:55:15 pm »
The bike is burning a low beam filament H4 every 10k miles /10 months. I just saw on Amazon a Philips HED that looks good...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TF8W18G/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?pd_rd_i=B07TF8W18G&pd_rd_w=T3S2L&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=FyrjZ&pf_rd_r=N91H2CFPES1VS0A730FR&pd_rd_r=9a8c35f9-9d56-44c1-a847-9e32d2799609&th=1

does anyone have experience with this LED light??
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Offline maxtog

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Re: H4 LED Fitment
« Reply #94 on: July 29, 2019, 08:13:32 pm »
I just saw on Amazon a Philips HED that looks good...[..]does anyone have experience with this LED light??

Those things change CONSTANTLY, so it is unlikely you will find someone else who has used the same one.  I will say I am not a fan of fans...
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc