Author Topic: Valve cover  (Read 417 times)

Offline paulthibodeaux

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Valve cover
« on: September 01, 2018, 09:12:32 am »
Finally got the valve cover off this morning. Tried for 20minutes Thursday and 5 minutes today. Still don't know how I did it.

Offline Mettler1

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Re: Valve cover
« Reply #1 on: September 01, 2018, 11:45:26 am »
  Over the yrs I have found it best to replace the sparkplug hole gaskets each time. Keeps the oil out of the spark holes. I have reused the large cover gasket most of the time without any leakage.

 https://www.murphskits.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_93&products_id=34&osCsid=LZgmXgfIxW12vAt5cGMjy1
'94 Concours 112,000 miles-- 7th gear,2MM,KB fork brace,Over flowtubes,Stick coils,Tcro shifter,GPS,Torque cams,SPOOKFAK,block off plates, SS brake & clutch lines,KB risers, FENDA EXTENDA, emulators,etc

Offline DC Concours

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Re: Valve cover
« Reply #2 on: September 01, 2018, 02:16:56 pm »
It's a tight fit but if you take the top plumbing off you have space. Putting it back with the gasket in place is another challenge!

Offline paulthibodeaux

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Re: Valve cover
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2018, 04:34:15 pm »
I plan on gluing the gasket to the valve cover. Any recommendations?

Offline gpineau

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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Valve cover
« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2018, 07:29:44 pm »
didn't mention whether you ar re using the old gasket, or installing new...
so,
if re using, carefully peel it out, clean and scrape the cover groove wtih a screwdriver, and wipe clean with non oily solvent, (MEK, Acetone, Denatured alcohol, BrakeKleen, or even GumOut..which is my standby.)

clean the head surface also, in a similar manner, using a single edged razorblade if needed... to remove all the other Horse Hockey Silicone someone added before.... ::) ::) ::)

Then, clean the actual gasket, gently but completly, with a rag soaked with one of the aforementioned solvents..

I don't really condone adding any silicone to the gasket/valve cover interface whatsoever, as anything more than a 1/16" bead, tends to migrate into the inside, and end up blocking oil passages, and internal oil drains and filtration... seen a lot of this, and people just goober that crap, the red stuff,on the cover/seal interface, and also the seal/head interface, willy nilly.. (seems like EVERY valve cover I pull off, I have to spend 15 minutes cleaning and scraping that crap off, and picking bits out of the area below, really pizz's me off) and if I do use anything, Ultra Black is what i use, but only on really old over compressed gaskets there.. and a miniscule bead as noted.
If anything, I usually spray the gasket surface that contacts the cover, with a spray 'contact cement' (or even a very light finger smeer of the stuff in the jar) , and invert the cover and gasket and place a couple phone books on it till dry... then it sticks.. The contact cement dries fast, and re creates what the original factory Kawabond glue they used from the factory...
the ONLY place where I use sealant, is in the 'crescent' cutouts at the head, and a VERY LIGHT finger schmeer of the Ultra Black RTV Sealant is used, ( not a BEAD, a light schmear..mmkay?) just moments before dropping the cover in place..
if you see sealant OUTSIDE, smooshed out, might as well figure 3x as much may have gone INSIDE...




if using a NEW gasket, I suggest the contact cement, and Black RTV (on the crescents again, ONLY) and install...

the rubber gaskets on C10's are very robust, and many last the life of the bike, if not abused, and continually slathered with silicone goop, which makes it almost impossible to adhere anything to down the road... and frankly, it's a really unnecessary P.I.T.A. to have to clean up, every time a cover is pulled.

30 YEARS OF KAW.....

Offline paulthibodeaux

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Re: Valve cover
« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2018, 03:40:56 am »
Thanks for  all the suggestions.