Author Topic: Clutch question  (Read 2152 times)

Offline connie14boy

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #30 on: May 17, 2019, 02:55:55 pm »
Thanks. I road all over the county today. Not an issue.  Moderate traffic.  Think I am going to get a speed bleeder and just try to find someone that can walk me through.  I know there are those DVDs but I don't think they cover replacing the slave, etc.  But they do cover bleeding.  Anyone know if they are still available for purchase?

If and when you buy a MityVac and DVD, don't forget to also do new brake fluid-and there are 2 bleeders at the rear brake-both are important to service every 2 years or so.

Offline lather

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #31 on: May 17, 2019, 04:49:18 pm »
A motion Pro bleeder is better than speed bleeders. I have no problem bleeding the brake or clutch with it.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143
Are you in Stone or Harrison county? I am in Louisiana about 120 miles from Biloxi. Might be able to get over there to help.
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Offline wtaylorc14

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #32 on: May 17, 2019, 05:08:34 pm »
A motion Pro bleeder is better than speed bleeders. I have no problem bleeding the brake or clutch with it.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143
Are you in Stone or Harrison county? I am in Louisiana about 120 miles from Biloxi. Might be able to get over there to help.
You must be close to Baton Rouge?  Heck, that bleeder is cheap. I'd be willing to buy one of those sometime and ride to you to walk through proper use.
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Offline maxtog

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #33 on: May 17, 2019, 07:05:16 pm »
Heck, that bleeder is cheap. I'd be willing to buy one of those

That is the bleeder I used and have had no problems with air bubbles.  It made the job pretty fast, too.
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Offline lather

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #34 on: May 17, 2019, 07:54:43 pm »
I'm in St. Francisville, 30 miles north of Baton Rouge. You are more than welcome to use mine but it is a cheap tool every rider should have. I  am starting 2 to 4 weeks of pt on Monday but should be free on weekends (but not this Saturday - track day.
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #35 on: May 17, 2019, 09:20:15 pm »
A motion Pro bleeder is better than speed bleeders. I have no problem bleeding the brake or clutch with it.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143
Are you in Stone or Harrison county? I am in Louisiana about 120 miles from Biloxi. Might be able to get over there to help.

IMHO that is better on all aspects, than the expected outcome on speedbleeders/  don't get me wrong, they work for many people, but sometimes they don't... and that lies on "user installation/usage"... I don't use them, I bleed manually. Just ;ike my grandpa did.... takes time, but again, I ain't posting things about how someone "vacuuumed" my system, and I don't have clutch or brake function..  and not saying the S/B's made a differ, when people suck fluids from a master, to a slave bleeder.... (someone posted issues recently... I say force fluids back up to a master, as bubbles flow up, and forcing fluids upwards, moves them, and the bubbles.. to exit at tha top...)... mmmmkay?


by far, just make sure to fill and purge the hoses, and bleeder check valve prior and during use... no connection with the product, I just trust it much more

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Offline maxtog

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #36 on: May 18, 2019, 05:46:22 am »
and that lies on "user installation/usage"... [...] by far, just make sure to fill and purge the hoses, and bleeder check valve prior and during use...

Yep, like with most things, the procedure and method is just as important as the equipment used.
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Offline route66tc

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #37 on: May 19, 2019, 07:37:38 am »
This might take a little of the mystery out of master cylinder work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njKRhPwHOaM

Offline SVonhof

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #38 on: October 16, 2019, 07:58:49 am »
I say force fluids back up to a master, as bubbles flow up, and forcing fluids upwards, moves them, and the bubbles.. to exit at tha top...)... mmmmkay?

Anyone try one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-2104-B-Reverse-Bleeder/dp/B00GRV800S/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Hydraulic+Brake+Bleeder&qid=1571233470&sr=8-9
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #39 on: October 16, 2019, 03:53:07 pm »
Anyone try one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-2104-B-Reverse-Bleeder/dp/B00GRV800S/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Hydraulic+Brake+Bleeder&qid=1571233470&sr=8-9

looks to be an interesting tool set, but I'm basically real cheap... Got some HUGE horse sized syringes from a local horse vet, which when clear tube is attached to them, and clamped tight, you can "push" fluid pretty easily up back thru flushing/purging the lines.. worked like a charm, and din't cost me anything.... I said I was cheap...

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Offline Cold Streak

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #40 on: November 06, 2019, 02:18:38 pm »
I'm a little late on posting to this thread but I had the dreaded floppy clutch lever.  For me it was when I was cruising down the highway, not using the clutch at all, but sometimes after stop and go.  I'd reach for it after a bit and there would be nothing there.  After bleeding it a number of times the traditional way with the same problem recurring, I went to the Kawi dealer to ask them.  The tech there said he'd seen the problem a number of times and the only way he fixed it was to replace the clutch line.  Since my bike had 70k miles he said that was probably my cure.  I installed a new clutch line and rebuilt the master cylinder.  Bled the clutch both traditionally and with a vacuum device.  I rode for a couple of months with no issues.  Ahhh, victory!  Nope.  4th of july weekend I got stuck in stop and go traffic on a 90F+ day and suddenly I only had half a clutch lever.  I managed to coast down the road with the clutch pulled in, only cycling it occasionally.  After a few miles the clutch came back, almost like the air or whatever found it's way up to the reservoir.  It's been fine ever since, about 5-6k miles. 

In the meantime, I've bought a sst line for both the brakes and clutch.  I've replaced the brake lines but not the clutch yet. I'm waiting until I don't have any rides scheduled for quite awhile.  I will also rebuild the slave cylinder at that time. 

I have to add that I think the Kawi clutch line is one of the stupidest designs I've ever seen.  It transitions from rubber to steel a number of times for no real apparent reason.  I think all those transitions are places for air to get trapped.  I'm not sure where the air comes from, at  least in my case, since the bike had been working fine and I do periodic fluid changes on both the brakes and clutch system.

This has been the only real problem I've had with the bike for 78k miles so I am very happy but also perplexed about this phenomenon. 

Offline maxtog

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #41 on: November 06, 2019, 03:59:45 pm »
Yeah, I am guessing one will never have problems, as long as air was never introduced to the system at any time.  But once air gets in there, it seems very, very difficult to get it all out.  And it can hang around for a long time, collecting and moving, causing problems and then no problems, and then problems again.  This seems to fit with people who have had zero problems flushing the lines that never allowed air in (I had no problem, for example, but I also never let air in).
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Offline strum

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #42 on: November 06, 2019, 08:07:51 pm »
 Cold Streak Im going out on a limb and saying this is not air . Before you do anything else take your slave cylinder apart. You said you rebuilt the master but if the slave is sticking(not returning) there is your floppy clutch lever. Rebuild it. Then use a pneumatic bleeder such as Mityvac mv6830  or (what i use now)  Harbor Freight pneumatic brake bleeder.   If you pull that slave apart please let us know what you find . HTH

Offline Boomer

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #43 on: November 07, 2019, 03:40:22 am »
The problem here is air in the clutch line.
When the bike warms up, the air expands and partially disengages the clutch, hence the floppy lever.
Once ya get moving the fluid cools down, the air contracts and the clutch behaves normally again.

The ONLY solution I found on my 08 was to PUSH the brake fluid up from the Slave cylinder to the Master cylinder with a big syringe.
Doing it and keeping air out of the system is not easy, but do-able. Ya need to be slow and methodical.
Since I did that I no longer get floppy clutch when riding in dense traffic on hot days.
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Offline VirginiaJim

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Re: Clutch question
« Reply #44 on: November 07, 2019, 04:12:48 am »
This happened to me a couple of times but bleeding and refreshing the fluid helped.  These bikes are getting some age on them now and this is all probably related to seals and lines.
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