Author Topic: Jump starter  (Read 672 times)

Offline lather

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Jump starter
« on: December 22, 2019, 11:09:31 am »
I am interested in portable jump starter to take a long on motorcycle trips. They all come with short lead clips designed to clip to battery posts. That makes them problematic for the C14 battery configuration. Most seem to use EC5 connectors and I fould this one on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Arteck-External-Automotive-Motorcycle-Flashlight/dp/B01DVSSCG6
and the attached adapter by apparently a different company  which I hope would work with a battery tender pigtail without melting down. What do y'all think?
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Offline gPink

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2019, 01:17:32 pm »
which power pack are you looking at?
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Offline lather

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2019, 01:34:00 pm »
Looking at the Artec tried to post the link to it
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Offline gPink

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2019, 02:04:03 pm »
The adapter is sold as a 'bought together' and is 10 ga wire so as long as plug polarity is correct it should work.
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Offline VirginiaJim

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2019, 02:16:26 pm »
Depends on how dead the battery is..  Nearly dead, should work.  Mostly dead, may not.


Don't make the battery dead in the first place..  The person I sold my bike to was in the habit of using the cutoff on the right bar.  Bad habit with the C14.  His battery got mostly dead.  Wouldn't jump even with proper cables.  Had to charge it for a couple of days to get it back to thinking it was alive.


Let us know how that solution works out....LOL.
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2019, 03:01:54 pm »
The adapter is sold as a 'bought together' and is 10 ga wire so as long as plug polarity is correct it should work.


the problem there is "the plug" and "it's rating", it isn't rated for enduring a huge load...

Dealing with DC voltage, and specific load (Amps), placed on the conductor... you can run 10 AWG for a "gentle" 30 Amp load, which is "constant", but not so much when using wire/cable for "starting", which demand a much higher amp load, and specific associated issues, from "inrush" / inductive load; i.e. electric motor load startup, with a "physical load" on the motor from initial energization (resistance from rotation due to physical load)


the bare minimum I personally would condone, for a jumper, is between 4 and 6 AWG... and relative to a one meter long cable..

simplified, just look at the cables on your bike, that carry current to the starter motor... it ain't 10 AWG wire... the demands for current to "start" are a constant, reducing the cable / wire size, even for a momentary "event", just doesn't make much sense...
now, combine that figure, with the "ampacity" of the battery you have on the bike, the rating of cold amps, which if the starter motor is "held solid, like physically holding the shaft, so it can't move", the wire has to carry that load..... or, you discover what we call the "magic", when you let the "magic smoke" to be released from the wire itself.... (a little electrical humor... some folks will laugh, because they now the joke)

now, for the truth;
I have made many "jumpers" for use on bikes, from industrial grade high service rated wire, THHN rating,(it's very stiff, and has a high temp rating due to the multi layer insulation) and 10 AWG, about 4 foot long. they roll up and store easily, but I would not ue them for an "enduring cranking event", meaning about 10-20 seconds at most, for cranking.

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Offline lather

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #6 on: December 22, 2019, 04:51:53 pm »
Mob, you comments are exactly what I was worried about and why I posted. However I found a review of the adapter claiming he successfully used it for jump starting. I think it is worth a try.



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Offline gPink

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #7 on: December 22, 2019, 05:39:24 pm »
could you run cables from the battery to protected posts installed under the seat to allow the use of the clamps sold with the power pack?
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Offline lather

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #8 on: December 22, 2019, 06:28:26 pm »
Yes I think that could be done  but if have to give up my heated gear cords to make room.
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Offline MAN OF BLUES

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #9 on: December 22, 2019, 06:56:56 pm »
Mob, you comments are exactly what I was worried about and why I posted. However I found a review of the adapter claiming he successfully used it for jump starting. I think it is worth a try.

jump starting what?
just asking.
 the pack and stuff noted at the top, for $39.. would not have me buying it. I have a couple LiPo, "packs" I carry for backup power on laptops and etc., on trip.. a true quality one, able to supply what you want, will run you $70 or higher, and the cables will be of adequate gauge, to conduct the current.

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Offline Conrad

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2019, 07:15:45 am »
300 amps (peak) from something no larger than a cell phone? Color me skeptical.
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Offline lather

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #11 on: December 23, 2019, 07:28:20 am »
300 amps (peak) from something no larger than a cell phone? Color me skeptical.
I was skeptical too until  I saw one work on an ST1300. Not the same brand or model but similar in size. There are bigger and more powerful ones available  with claims of being able to jump a 5 litre V8.
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Offline VirginiaJim

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #12 on: December 23, 2019, 07:48:46 am »
Easy enough to test...run your battery down and try it.
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Offline connie_rider

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #13 on: December 23, 2019, 08:48:23 am »
To reduce the cranking amp's a bit.
  {before you attempt the start} Hook it to the battery {to transfer some charge} for a few minutes.

Ride safe, Ted

Offline fartymarty

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Re: Jump starter
« Reply #14 on: December 23, 2019, 11:56:58 am »
To reduce the cranking amp's a bit.
  {before you attempt the start} Hook it to the battery {to transfer some charge} for a few minutes.

Ride safe, Ted

Anytime I have less than welding cable sized jumper cables I use the above technique. Many call what builds up in 5-10 minutes
of pre-charging the sub par battery "surface charge", I'm not sure if that is the technically correct term, but it has worked many times over the years
to keep from demanding too much current going across the cables during cranking.
Pre-charging also works well with bike to bike jumping with the lamp cord looking 16AWG ( 14 amps? @12v @12ft) SAE connector type jumper cords. I have made a bridge rectifier insert
to ensure correct polarity as the wrong combo of SAE connectors gets it all backwards if going from battery tender hookup on one bike to the battery tender hook up on the other.

I'm probably letting you all into my paranoia......but I also have a 20 amp fuse between my battery tender hook up and the battery. That's for when some asshat decides to short out my
tender cable with a paper clip so I have a dead bike. Yeah, I know, I have a problem  :o. I don't leave my helmet or my jacket just sitting on the bike when I go in to eat either, it all comes in with me.
Probably when I had my bicycle stolen (locked with chain) at the library as a kid has warped me for life  :'( :-\.