Author Topic: Bike is dead  (Read 1405 times)

Offline courtney985

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Bike is dead
« on: July 29, 2020, 01:48:54 am »
Hello all,

Been a lurker for a while, but am having a problem with my 2011 that I'm hoping to get some feedback with. Long story short, stopped for gas on the way to work and when attempting to start the bike it acted as if the battery was dead (thumbing the starter cause the instrument panel to dim and throw various errors about FI, Immobilizer and KTRC…unfortunately I noticed no error code #). It's done this before, but usually switching it off and waiting a second or two it would fire up normally. No go this time and progressively got worse the more times I retried; I believe that at this point I was just draining the battery. Eventually I got a tow and the bike is now sitting in my garage on the trickle charger.

Since I’ve had it home, the behavior has changed a bit. When it was first fully charged the dash would light up normally (both left red and oil light, dials would spin, etc), but once I hit the ignition switch I’d get nothing but a rapid clicking noise coming from the tank area and an alternating errors on the display: KTRC and K-ACT ABS error.

Strangely, since getting the battery tested (it’s good) the bike is now acting differently. Now when I turn it on the display takes a moment before illuminating and pressing the starter I hear a click and the dash goes dark with only the oil light faintly illuminated (along with Neutral). Turning off the key nob and back on repeats the same behavior.

For the record, the bike is a 2011 with  22k some odd miles (I bought two years ago in Nov with under 7000 miles) . I installed a new battery in January, and just had it load tested resulting in a healthy status. Also, all fuses appear to be intact and functional. Lastly, I performed a diode test on the Voltage Regulator/rectifier having had bad experience with failure on my last bike, a Triumph Sprint ST, but it appears sound.

Any suggestions on what might be the problem or next steps I should take in troubleshooting?  Thanks in advance!
« Last Edit: September 05, 2020, 01:56:09 pm by VirginiaJim »

Offline Boomer

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2020, 02:39:42 am »
Check that all bolts on the battery earth cable are fully tight.
The C14 needs a solid earth connection so check both ends of the earth cable.
Loose connections and corrosion on the connections are common.
George "Boomer" Garratt
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Offline B.D.F.

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2020, 03:14:07 am »
Ignore any / all error codes shown as they are byproducts of the base problem, and that problem is either a bad battery or (more likely) poor contact on the battery cables. Remove the battery, then the cables and clean both the battery posts as well as the cable ends. I prefer to do this with a wire brush as that does not leave any grit behind which can cause further problems. Then check the battery cable connection to the frame; this is often corroded and a typical cause of what you are describing.

Best of luck but the above should clear up your problem.

Brian

Hello all,

Been a lurker for a while, but am having a problem with my 2011 that I'm hoping to get some feedback with. Long story short, stopped for gas on the way to work and when attempting to start the bike it acted as if the battery was dead (thumbing the starter cause the instrument panel to dim and throw various errors about FI, Immobilizer and KTRC…unfortunately I noticed no error code #). It's done this before, but usually switching it off and waiting a second or two it would fire up normally. No go this time and progressively got worse the more times I retried; I believe that at this point I was just draining the battery. Eventually I got a tow and the bike is now sitting in my garage on the trickle charger.

Since I’ve had it home, the behavior has changed a bit. When it was first fully charged the dash would light up normally (both left red and oil light, dials would spin, etc), but once I hit the ignition switch I’d get nothing but a rapid clicking noise coming from the tank area and an alternating errors on the display: KTRC and K-ACT ABS error.

Strangely, since getting the battery tested (it’s good) the bike is now acting differently. Now when I turn it on the display takes a moment before illuminating and pressing the starter I hear a click and the dash goes dark with only the oil light faintly illuminated (along with Neutral). Turning off the key nob and back on repeats the same behavior.

For the record, the bike is a 2011 with  22k some odd miles (I bought two years ago in Nov with under 7000 miles) . I installed a new battery in January, and just had it load tested resulting in a healthy status. Also, all fuses appear to be intact and functional. Lastly, I performed a diode test on the Voltage Regulator/rectifier having had bad experience with failure on my last bike, a Triumph Sprint ST, but it appears sound.

Any suggestions on what might be the problem or next steps I should take in troubleshooting?  Thanks in advance!
« Last Edit: September 05, 2020, 01:58:12 pm by VirginiaJim »
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Offline VirginiaJim

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2020, 08:27:55 am »
Could also be a bad multiple ground connector in the wiring harness.  I've seen those cause trouble as well.
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Offline deepseamdv

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2020, 09:28:16 am »
I had the exact same problem. Battery tested good with multimeter. Put it on a load tester and was still good. Tried again and it dropped to 4.7 volts. Next load test was again good. Internal fault. New battery fixed it.
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Offline B.D.F.

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #5 on: August 27, 2020, 09:21:44 am »
I wonder how the OP made out?
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Offline Gigantor

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #6 on: August 27, 2020, 12:54:28 pm »
When you help Lurkers, they do not have the decency to report back


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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #7 on: August 27, 2020, 02:23:32 pm »
True enough. Not that I mind, just that it would be nice to see if the person with the problem resolved it and what was the actual cause.

Brian

When you help Lurkers, they do not have the decency to report back
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Offline basmntdweller

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #8 on: August 31, 2020, 03:39:33 pm »
I don’t get on here near as much as I did when I first got my Connie. I was coming on here to ask basically the same question as OP. I went to go for a short ride yesterday and when I hit the starter everything went completely dead. Shutting off the key reset it but it repeated this behavior. I figured low battery so this afternoon I hooked up my charger but it wasn’t showing any current draw. I checked battery with a volt meter and it showed 14.4v on the charger and 13.8v by itself. I know the negative cable grounds right by the battery. Can you give me locations elsewhere on the bike I should check/clean? I was thinking maybe at the starter could use a cleaning. VirginiaJim mentioned a multiple ground connector in the harness. Can you point me to this area. Maybe I disturbed something earlier in the year when I had to work on my ABS unit?

Thanks, Matt
'09 C14
'98 DR-350
'11 Suzuki C50T wife's ride since she hates my Connie
'03 Honda CBR600RR track bike

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2020, 03:46:33 pm »
With no load, you can't determine the true state of the battery with just a volt meter, it will just show the "surface charge".  Press the starter and "poof."

It is good to start by cleaning/inspecting/tightening the battery connectors and grounds first.  The main grounds are all right there to the right of the battery area on the frame.  If that doesn't do it, and it won't charge, the battery is likely bad.   You will have to remove it and take it someplace with a battery tester that throws a load on it to really test it.  Or, if it is older than 4-5 years, just expect it is bad without testing (save the energy/time) and get a new one.
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Offline basmntdweller

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #10 on: August 31, 2020, 04:53:10 pm »
The battery was new in March/April. I was trying figure out some way to load it to test it. I may have an idea I came up with while typing this. I’ll figure out if it works shortly and report back on what I find.

Matt
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Offline B.D.F.

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #11 on: August 31, 2020, 05:00:04 pm »
The main failure points for the C-14's main electrical system are the two connections to the battery, and the two heavy ground lines connected to the frame just in front of the battery box. All four can be looked at / cleaned and tightened w/out removing any fairing or anything else.

There are internal ground clusters 'here and there' around the bike but I have not heard of any of those failing in any way. They are crimped and sealed connections and so are not subject to either mechanical loosening or corrosion that the exposed connections on and around the battery are.

Best of luck.

Brian

I don’t get on here near as much as I did when I first got my Connie. I was coming on here to ask basically the same question as OP. I went to go for a short ride yesterday and when I hit the starter everything went completely dead. Shutting off the key reset it but it repeated this behavior. I figured low battery so this afternoon I hooked up my charger but it wasn’t showing any current draw. I checked battery with a volt meter and it showed 14.4v on the charger and 13.8v by itself. I know the negative cable grounds right by the battery. Can you give me locations elsewhere on the bike I should check/clean? I was thinking maybe at the starter could use a cleaning. VirginiaJim mentioned a multiple ground connector in the harness. Can you point me to this area. Maybe I disturbed something earlier in the year when I had to work on my ABS unit?

Thanks, Matt
Homo Sapiens Sapiens and just a tad of Neanderthal but it usually does not show....  My Private mail is blocked; it is not you, it is me, just like that dating partner said all those years ago. Please send an e-mail if you want to contact me privately.

KiPass keeping you up at night? Fuel gauge warning burning your retinas? Get unlimited peace and harmony here: www.incontrolne.com

Offline basmntdweller

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2020, 05:06:02 pm »
I don’t know how much load I put on it but it wasn’t much, probably less than 1/2 amp. It immediately dropped to about 8.8 volts so it must have a dead cell in it. I guess I’ll be heading to the bike shop for a new battery on Wednesday after work.
This one is a Yuasa which I thought was pretty decent. Other preferred batteries?

Thanks, Matt
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'98 DR-350
'11 Suzuki C50T wife's ride since she hates my Connie
'03 Honda CBR600RR track bike

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #13 on: August 31, 2020, 05:31:28 pm »
I don’t know how much load I put on it but it wasn’t much, probably less than 1/2 amp. It immediately dropped to about 8.8 volts so it must have a dead cell in it.

Yep :)

Sometimes it doesn't take a lot of load.  I will test a battery voltage by connecting the largest 12V incandecent bulb I can find lying around.  But that is still not enough load for many battery problems.


Quote
I guess I’ll be heading to the bike shop for a new battery on Wednesday after work.
This one is a Yuasa which I thought was pretty decent. Other preferred batteries?

Nothing is what it used to be.  Did you allow to battery to sit, discharged or low-charged for a long period of time?  That can cause failure.  If it sulfated some and since it is not old, it MIGHT be possible to "resurrect" the battery with a de-sulfating procedure.  But since yours is SO new, it sounds like some other type of failure.  You might/should have a warranty, but those often are useless because shipping charges, pro-rating, hassle, long waits, and risk make it not worth using (and they know it).

Until last time, I have always used Yuasa.  This is what I bought last, a year ago, and the price is actually still the same (which is amazing):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0GHUWU
YTX14-BS ATV Battery- Rechargeable, Factory sealed; free shipping, shipped AND sold by Amazon.

So far, it has worked fine, although it has a non-standard top.  The Concours' top plastic piece will NOT snap down over it so I just left it loose.  I do keep it on a trickle charger between rides (and typically ride 1 to 2 times a week most of the year).
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Offline basmntdweller

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Re: Bike is dead
« Reply #14 on: August 31, 2020, 06:00:38 pm »
Yep :)

Sometimes it doesn't take a lot of load.  I will test a battery voltage by connecting the largest 12V incandecent bulb I can find lying around.  But that is still not enough load for many battery problems.


Nothing is what it used to be.  Did you allow to battery to sit, discharged or low-charged for a long period of time?  That can cause failure.  If it sulfated some and since it is not old, it MIGHT be possible to "resurrect" the battery with a de-sulfating procedure.  But since yours is SO new, it sounds like some other type of failure.  You might/should have a warranty, but those often are useless because shipping charges, pro-rating, hassle, long waits, and risk make it not worth using (and they know it).

Until last time, I have always used Yuasa.  This is what I bought last, a year ago, and the price is actually still the same (which is amazing):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E0GHUWU
YTX14-BS ATV Battery- Rechargeable, Factory sealed; free shipping, shipped AND sold by Amazon.

So far, it has worked fine, although it has a non-standard top.  The Concours' top plastic piece will NOT snap down over it so I just left it loose.  I do keep it on a trickle charger between rides (and typically ride 1 to 2 times a week most of the year).


That one is half of what I paid at local bike shop! It did sit for several months when I ran into the ABS issue and I did have to charge it to get it started then and once since. I may have hurt it by not keeping it topped off with a battery tender. I’ll look into de-sulphating procedure to see if it is salvageable but I’ll probably get another battery on the way. Best riding weather of the year will be here shortly!


Matt
'09 C14
'98 DR-350
'11 Suzuki C50T wife's ride since she hates my Connie
'03 Honda CBR600RR track bike