Author Topic: Lowering the bike/seat  (Read 49213 times)

Offline Awaz

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #15 on: October 24, 2011, 01:55:49 pm »
I did use Muzzy's but I did not raise the tubes to match. Some good members here said it will definitely require a shorter side stand. Without touching the front, the stock side stand works. Since I do not have a manual yet, what do you do to lower or raise the tubes? If I get a used side stand, I might try that.
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Offline gonzosc1

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #16 on: October 24, 2011, 01:57:11 pm »
thanks,,,



Just basic geometry/trig.  I knew the fork angles and such from the specs.  Dropped a triangle and computed what the length of the tube would have to change to lower the bike exactly 1" to match the rear lowering.  I had my conclusions checked out by a friend who is a master mechanic and was a race car suspension expert (and who also rides bikes).  The tube raising is going to be a little more than the amount the rear drops.

No.  But I wouldn't go any farther than what I did :)

If I remember correctly it is because their design is different-  The adjustable Soupy's links take up more space and would collide with the stand, unlike the fixed, stock-like-design Muzzy links.

Sorry, I can't answer that.  I just don't know.

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #17 on: October 24, 2011, 04:23:27 pm »
I did use Muzzy's but I did not raise the tubes to match. Some good members here said it will definitely require a shorter side stand. Without touching the front, the stock side stand works.

If you lower the bike 1" properly (both front and back) the side kickstand will simply be too long.  I had to replace mine (see my first postings).

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Since I do not have a manual yet, what do you do to lower or raise the tubes?

Step 1- purchase and install handlebar risers.  Without them, you cannot raise the tubes.  Once you have done that, it is easy, you just loosen some bolts and carefully twist the tubes up, making ABSOLUTELY SURE you have them both at exactly the same height.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline ninjawarrior1400

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #18 on: October 24, 2011, 04:52:09 pm »
If you lower the rear .......the bike will be very difficult to put on the centerstand.  I removed my stand and cut both legs 3/4 inch and rewelded the base legs...works perfect and just as easy to put on the center stand as stock height.

Muzzy links let you use the stock center stand...soupys dont.  You can send your center stand to Muzzy.....he will charge you 149.99 for a shorter stand and give you a core charge exchange for your stock unit....the price is $77.95 with the new core exchange from you to Muzzy.

Muzzy links are a fixed set height spacing.  There are several for sale on E bay that have 3 holes on one end which gives you 3 different suspension heights to choose from......try to see what you like...anytime you lower your height, you must either get an adjustable sidestand....or cut your stock one and reweld accordingly......any welding shop can do it for you in 20 minutes for about 25.00.

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Offline Tom J.

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #19 on: October 25, 2011, 04:24:04 pm »
Word(s) of caution.  I bought the 08 slightly used.  It had been lowered using the Muzzy brackets as well as having the forks pushed up about an inch or so....
If you do this....your oil drain plug will take a beating (driveways and speed bumps, etc).  Your toes/foot pegs will be close to the ground in turns/curves.
I cover my bike at work, and while on the kickstand, she blew over onto the right side.  Unless you shorten your kickstand, the bike will sit VERY upright on the kickstand. The cover acted like a parachute and pulled it right over.    >:(
I've returned the bike to stock height- very happy with it.
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Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #20 on: October 25, 2011, 04:33:50 pm »
Word(s) of caution.  I bought the 08 slightly used.  It had been lowered using the Muzzy brackets as well as having the forks pushed up about an inch or so....
If you do this....your oil drain plug will take a beating (driveways and speed bumps, etc).  Your toes/foot pegs will be close to the ground in turns/curves.

Hmm, I have been pretty diligent about reading the forums for many months now- yours is the first time I have seen anyone complain about the drain plug hitting due to reasonable lowering (1").  Is there a difference in the oil plug design location between the old C14 and new C14?  (I seem to remember reading that).  I have 1,000 miles now, and have not had a single issue on my lowered 2011.

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I cover my bike at work, and while on the kickstand, she blew over onto the right side.  Unless you shorten your kickstand, the bike will sit VERY upright on the kickstand. The cover acted like a parachute and pulled it right over.    >:(

+1.  You absolutely need to shorten the stand if you lower the bike an inch... period!  It is not safe otherwise (as you, unfortunately, discovered)

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I've returned the bike to stock height- very happy with it.

Some of us (with short legs) simply don't have that option.  But I am glad it worked out for you at stock.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline Conrad

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #21 on: October 26, 2011, 05:05:03 am »
Hmm, I have been pretty diligent about reading the forums for many months now- yours is the first time I have seen anyone complain about the drain plug hitting due to reasonable lowering (1").  Is there a difference in the oil plug design location between the old C14 and new C14?  (I seem to remember reading that).  I have 1,000 miles now, and have not had a single issue on my lowered 2011.


Yes, the '08's/'09's have the oil drain plug located on the bottom of the pan, with a half assed 'shield' in place to protect it. The later models have the plug on the front of the pan.
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Offline VirginiaJim

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #22 on: October 26, 2011, 05:12:40 am »
Lowering the bike has all sorts of hidden unintended consequences....
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Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #23 on: October 26, 2011, 06:20:30 am »
Lowering the bike has all sorts of hidden unintended consequences....

Agreed.  Such as: lowering clearance, changing the handling, making the center stand difficult, forcing replacement of the kickstand, and reducing suspension travel.

But not lowering it has various ones too.  Like: dropping the bike in a parking lot, not being able to back it out of a parking space, not being able to prevent a slow tight turn fallover, being very uncomfortable at every stop, tip overs at stops, having difficultly getting on, etc.

I would NOT recommend lowering unless lowering the seat and wearing taller boots is still not enough.  And that was exactly my situation.  No other bike in the C14 class/type is much lower, so the occasional comments about "the Concours is not for everyone" are also insulting and invalid (not claiming you did this, just a preemptive declaration) and I will have no bike before having a slow, loud, poor handling,low-tech "cruiser".
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline lemosley01

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #24 on: October 26, 2011, 07:48:49 pm »
^^^Yamaha V-Max.

I did notice that the BMW K16 is a lot lower than most - I can nearly flatfoot it, and I am on my tiptoes with the Concours (30" inseam).

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #25 on: October 26, 2011, 09:08:29 pm »
^^^Yamaha V-Max.

I did notice that the BMW K16 is a lot lower than most - I can nearly flatfoot it, and I am on my tiptoes with the Concours (30" inseam).

I looked at the V-Max.  It was somewhat interesting, yet lower-tech.  But *naked* = 4 months riding season MAX (that is the "Max" part of the "V-Max").  Not at all in the same class.

BMW K16 is great, but COMPLETELY unaffordable.  And it is not lower, it is 31" high with the LOW seat, and weighs considerably more than the C14.  The C14 with the Kawasaki (or aftermarket) low seat is 31".

And my inseam is < 27".... try THAT!
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #26 on: June 29, 2012, 04:52:26 pm »
I am short 5'7" now and have to get use to it.   I can't Flat Foot the 1400 and won't ride one I can't FF.   How do you get a 1400 Concours down to my level?  I see that the standard seat height is 31.5"

How low can it go?  I would need at least 2"

First, understand that your height has nothing to do with how your feet will or won't touch the ground.  Anatomical inseam is what is important- leg length.  You can be 5'7" and have long legs and a short torso and reach fine.  Or, you can be like me and have a long torso and short legs- when I sit, you am the same as a typical 5"11" person, but when I stand, I am suddenly only 5'7".

I assume you have read this thread now, so you can see that there are only three things you can do:  lower the seat, lower the bike, and raise your boots.  Each one has pluses and minuses.  And those are covered in this thread.

With the lowest seats and the safest/reasonable bike lowering links, you can gain about 1.9".  It might be possible to gain a bit more, but not much.  The rest you will have to make up for with taller boots.  Please feel free to ask any additional questions!
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline VirginiaJim

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #27 on: June 29, 2012, 06:11:24 pm »
I like that.....responding to another post in a different thread.  Makes things interesting.

I would be real concerned if it was an 08 or 09 due to the oil plug and guard.  There's a reason they relocated it to the front of the pan.  If it's a 10 on up then no worries there.


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Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #28 on: June 29, 2012, 06:16:16 pm »
I like that.....responding to another post in a different thread.  Makes things interesting.

Yeah, I was being creative.  You know how I hate duplicate threads.  And I really, really hate that the board throws out warnings about posting to old threads- all that does is ENCOURAGE duplicate threads.   I wonder if that can be turned off???

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I would be real concerned if it was an 08 or 09 due to the oil plug and guard.  There's a reason they relocated it to the front of the pan.  If it's a 10 on up then no worries there.

Yeah, although that info is in the thread, if anyone reads it.   As you know, I lowered my gen2 what I would consider the safe maximum- 1".  Have been riding it that way for over a year now without a single issue.  And I HAVE been over speed bumps and really rough roads too.
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline VirginiaJim

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #29 on: June 29, 2012, 06:18:36 pm »
Yeah, I was being creative.  You know how I hate duplicate threads.  And I really, really hate that the board throws out warnings about posting to old threads- all that does is ENCOURAGE duplicate threads.   I wonder if that can be turned off???

Dunno, but I'll check.

Found it, but I need to check with Rick on changing it.
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