Author Topic: Lowering the bike/seat  (Read 44013 times)

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #90 on: August 05, 2017, 01:02:42 pm »
 :goodpost:

+1
Guhl ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, HID, helmet locks, Garmin Zumo 450, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,  Tourmaster Flex II

Offline MAXPWR

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #91 on: August 10, 2017, 08:47:51 pm »
I finished installing the T-REX drop links and shorter side stand. Both were nicely made.
I then loosened fork clamps and dropped the front (fork tubes sticking thru the mounts 1").
All went pretty smooth and I found it easy to access the lower fork bolts by removing the panel (4 plastic rivets) just above the horn.
Bottom line for me was to measure the total, overall drop I'll ever do to this bike. The stock seat height, using a 4' level, and the bike stood straight up was 32 and 1/16". After I installed the Sargent Low seat, links, and dropped the front, the new seat height measurement was right on 30". I took it for a ride and I could tell the handling is a little better...which is already awesome ('specially compared to my VMAX lol) I'm sure this will help me from accidentally dropping bike the way I did again.
Thanks maxtog for your original post regarding lowering the C14, as well other contributors of this forum.





Offline connie_rider

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #92 on: August 10, 2017, 09:24:41 pm »
Don't forget to set your spring sag.

Ride safe, Ted

Offline MAXPWR

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #93 on: August 10, 2017, 09:44:13 pm »
oops! I overlooked that from your previous post connie-rider, thank you for the reminder. What is that and how is it done? I never touched the suspension adjustments.

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #94 on: August 10, 2017, 09:56:51 pm »
I then loosened fork clamps and dropped the front (fork tubes sticking thru the mounts 1").

Having the fork tubes rise 1" does not lower the front by 1".  Remember, the forks are at an angle, so it will require more than 1" to lower 1"; basic geometry, ya know.

Quote
Bottom line for me was to measure the total, overall drop I'll ever do to this bike.

Some of us were hoping you would do proper measurements on the rear axle before/after so we would know exactly how much the T-REX links actually drop the rear (to help future purchasers)....  Shame on you?  You need to know that measurement, anyway, so you can properly lower the front by the same amount...

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Thanks maxtog for your original post regarding lowering the C14

That is what we are here for, to share info and help each other!  Well, at least I hope MOST of us are here for that :)
Guhl ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, HID, helmet locks, Garmin Zumo 450, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,  Tourmaster Flex II

Offline connie_rider

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #95 on: August 11, 2017, 05:49:46 pm »
oops! I overlooked that from your previous post connie-rider, thank you for the reminder. What is that and how is it done? I never touched the suspension adjustments.


If you never did it, the change is not important.
But, if you never set your suspension, it needs to be done.
I don't have the info handy. Will try to find it.
Or hopefully someone will post a shortcut to the discussion here.

Until then; Go to You Tube and research "Setting Suspension".

Ride safe, Ted

Here is a lot I found on this Forum.
Happy reading.


Help with suspension settings http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=4480.0
C14 suspension setup http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=2027.0
Setting up your suspension http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=7802.0
Suspension for the completely stupid  http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=14869.0
Suspension advice http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13297.0
Setting suspension http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=13139.0


I went to you Tube when I did mine and watched several video's. Pretty simple to do after that.
I am NOT saying I got it perfect. But it sure feels better.

Ride safe, Ted


« Last Edit: August 12, 2017, 09:12:13 am by connie_rider »

Offline MAXPWR

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #96 on: August 12, 2017, 06:36:58 am »
Thanks Ted, I watched a few good vids on YouTube and will do this soon.

Offline TAL2013C14

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #97 on: August 31, 2017, 06:54:10 pm »
Great reads folks.
You all have convinced me to purchase T-Rex lowering links & adjustable kickstand, and Murphs' bar risers.
I watched a few YouTube videos, and the links and lowering the forks looks pretty straightforward.

Wish me luck! :)

Offline TAL2013C14

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #98 on: September 11, 2017, 09:40:10 pm »
Great reads folks.
You all have convinced me to purchase T-Rex lowering links & adjustable kickstand, and Murphs' bar risers.
I watched a few YouTube videos, and the links and lowering the forks looks pretty straightforward.

Wish me luck! :)

Update...
I installed the T-Rex lowering linkage & adjustable kickstand, and Murphs' bar risers.
Overall, the job went smooth.
The T-Rex links lowered the rear about 1-1/8" or so. And I slid the fork tubes up 1-1/4".
I went from balls of my feet, to flat footed.
Next step is to set up the suspension.

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #99 on: August 05, 2018, 08:45:07 pm »
Quick questions for anyone that has lowered their C14.  (Or not lowered for that matter.)  Have you ever hit your lower fairing on anything since you lowered your bike?  Like for instance, a speed bump.

No, but that is because I lowered safely, which is 1".  Anything more than 1" is risky.  1.5" is what I believe might be the absolute maximum, but I have no evidence that is safe, so I will not recommend anything more than 1".
Guhl ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, HID, helmet locks, Garmin Zumo 450, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,  Tourmaster Flex II

Offline connie_rider

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #100 on: August 06, 2018, 10:17:28 am »
Like Maxtog, I haven't hit the fairing, but part of the reason is, I added preload to the springs, and I am a bit more careful since lowering the bike.

Maxtog, which Links did you use to get the 1" drop?
I looked thru the 7 pages and didn't see it quickly so I decided (out of laziness) to just ask.
I have the Muzzy's and {as I recall} the actual measurement change (Axle to frame / on center stand) was 1 1/2" 1 1/8" change.

As I noted earlier, I set the suspension and recently decided it's just too stiff for normal riding.
So, I'm wanting to change to links to a set that give's me less drop. {I can then soften the suspension a bit}.

MAXPWR, after you change your suspension preload, remeasure the seat height {using your method}.
I think you'll find that the seat height will be higher.

Ride safe, Ted

« Last Edit: August 20, 2018, 01:13:22 pm by connie_rider »

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #101 on: August 06, 2018, 03:42:17 pm »
Like Maxtog, I haven't hit the fairing, but part of the reason is, I added preload to the springs, and I am a bit more careful since lowering the bike.

I think my preload is stock.  I have hit some really hard/big/major things and never bottomed out on the front or rear.

Quote
Maxtog, which Links did you use to get the 1" drop?

Muzzy's

Quote
I have the Muzzy's and {as I recall} the actual measurement change (Axle to frame / on center stand) was 1 1/2" change.

That is not what I measured- on mine it ended up exactly 1" rear at the axle to frame.  I expected 1.5" but it wasn't.
Guhl ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, HID, helmet locks, Garmin Zumo 450, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,  Tourmaster Flex II

Offline connie_rider

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #102 on: August 06, 2018, 05:46:13 pm »
Maxtog, I'm not sure we're on the same page when we're measuring.
In an earlier post you said;
As I warn in my first postings, the proper location to measure actual drop is from the axle center of the rear wheel.  If you measure the back of the frame, there will appear to be more drop, or forward of the axle, it will appear be less drop.  So who even knows what claimed numbers mean until you put it on and measure it yourself (just make sure to do it on level ground and make sure to bounce in the bike a few times first).

It sounds like your measuring from the axle to the frame, with weight on the rear tire?
If yes, that is not how I am doing it and does not give me the information I'm looking for.

To find the actual (geometric) change you get from changing the links, you have to measure from the axle to the frame {directly above the axle}, with the bike on the center stand, the rear tire off the ground, and the rear suspension fully extended..

PS: I am "not" saying your measurement is not good.
      Yours actually tells you how much the seat height changed..
      That is good as it is real world. But your methods includes spring sag.
         Spring sag is different on every bike, so the spring sag has to be out of the measurement to get an actual number.

I'm looking for an actual number to use in a calculation.

Ride safe, Ted
« Last Edit: August 06, 2018, 06:18:15 pm by connie_rider »

Offline maxtog

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #103 on: August 06, 2018, 06:52:08 pm »
It sounds like your measuring from the axle to the frame, with weight on the rear tire?

Yes, the sitting height change of the bike, after bounced a few times to settle the suspension.

Quote
PS: I am "not" saying your measurement is not good.  Yours actually tells you how much the seat height changed.. That is good as it is real world.

To me, the real-world was all I cared about (at the time).

Quote
But your methods includes spring sag.   Spring sag is different on every bike, so the spring sag has to be out of the measurement to get an actual number.

But it was held constant because I didn't change anything else in the suspension before/after the measurements....   You are quite correct, however, that this will not really address "bottoming out" the suspension on just any Concours.  I can't provide an exact number for that, unfortunately.   I am not sure anyone really can because there are just too many variables.   I do believe it is still useful as a "relative" number, though, because the suspension was "stock" at that point.  So if the bike is put back to stock settings (and weight, if applicable), one should still get my results with the Muzzy links and the listed raising of the front fork tubes.
Guhl ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, HID, helmet locks, Garmin Zumo 450, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,  Tourmaster Flex II

Offline connie_rider

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Re: Lowering the bike/seat
« Reply #104 on: August 20, 2018, 01:27:12 pm »
All (Particularly Maxtog),, I went back and remeasured the amount my rear whell was lowered using the Muzzy Links.
Turns out that my memory was "wrong".   It was not 1 1/2". It was 1 1/8"...
     {Yea, I admit it. I made a mistake..}

I then used the corrected dimensions to calculate how much length change it takes to get different amount's of drop..

As I sed in an earlier poet, I'm trying to build my own Lowering Links. (Target is a 3/4" drop...)
  I'm doing this as I'm dragging things in the twisties, but don't want the bike raised to full height.
  and, I wanna see if I can do it.... <evil grin>

  Watch out world, Ted's homemade Lowering Link is nearing completion..

Ride safe, Ted

PS: I was also able to determine that a ZX-14 Link will lower a C-14   2 1/2"...
       I feel that is too much to lower a C-14, but {if you really need it low} it is a possibility..
« Last Edit: August 20, 2018, 02:44:27 pm by connie_rider »