OK, so here’s what I did – your results may vary.
I used a 2” x 5/16” thread u-bolt (overall it is about 3-1/2” from the bottom of the “U” to the end of the threads), an exhaust clamp (1-7/8”) cross piece, wheel nuts (nut with a washer attached), a few 5/16” Nylock nuts, and a robust "S" hook (I’ll have to look up the size). Plus a scrap piece of steel bar stock (1/2” wide x 3/16” thick 3” long).
I bolted it on in this method. Everything was painted black to prevent rust before assembly. The u-bolt goes around the back side of the steering column, under the clutch line connection so the threaded ends a facing forward. The exhaust cross piece is pushed onto the u-bolt. A wheel nut followed by a Nylock nut is put on both sides and finger tightened to the cross piece for the moment. This creates two studs facing forward to add the rest of the assembly. Two holes are drilled (about 2” apart) into the bar stock to replace the wimpy cross piece that comes with the u-bolt. Push this piece on followed by a wheel nut on each side – but just start the threads on the nut – don’t screw them down yet. The “S” hook can now be added and tighten the nuts you just put on to keep it in place. It should be put on so it goes down around the cross piece and upwards to grab the weld between the two tubes on the fairing frame just ahead of where the stay bolt goes thru. You may need to adjust (bend) the “S” hook to grab the cross piece nicely (I had to use a vice and a hammer - if you can do it with channel locks, your "S" hook maybe too weak). Now you can tighten everything up and add a Nylock nut to each threaded end sticking forward. I felt no “give” so it should not be affecting the steering column. My thinking was it would be best to let the wheel nut have the holding power and a Nylock there to keep it from loosening. I then added a 6” piece of vacuum line to connect the two threaded end sticking out so nothing would catch on them (keep an eye on that brake line).
For an “on the road” repair, you could just use a 2” u-bolt, 1-7/8” exhaust clamp cross piece, large “S” hook and electric tape to keep the brake line away from it. I would think any hardware store would probably have what you need. Worst case, you need a hardware store and an automotive store (or just hide it on the bike somewhere now).
I think it cost about $7 total (I had some parts laying around already). Hopefully this will help someone in the dark of night.
Oh yeah, dad's bike had a little piece of steel he added when he epoxied the stay mount 15 years ago - I added it back because he made it - it's not required.
Oops - the pictures aren't of the final design - I added that exhaust clamp cross piece and got rid of the fender washers.
