Author Topic: +2 or +4 degree Ignition Rotors, Anybody bolted one on? What's Your results?  (Read 17362 times)

Offline Steve in Sunny Fla

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I've degreed several sets of cams, and have found the factory rotor marks to be spot on so far. Japanese engines, in general, have always impressed me more than any others as far as thier control of tolerances. Steve

Offline Motor Head

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 Just Standard procedure to verify TDC, to set up the pointer for the Degree Wheel. Then a quick verification of the OEM marks.
 Then also another Mark Added to the OEM Rotor For Full Advance, then Stamped with the #.
1990 ZG1000 C10
1982 KZ1000 LTD

Offline connie_rider

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Ok, have questions. Earlier you said that you (did the 4 degree addition to the timing rotor/ curve).

From that I assume you cut 4*off the back of the slot on the rotor? (to advance the rotor)

That would make all the (rotor) timing marks off  by 4*. (Correct)??

So, when you degree the cams;
   will you redo all the marks and numbers on the rotor itself
   or will you add a mark elsewhere to align the original rotor marks with?

Ride safe, Ted

Offline Motor Head

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Ok, have questions. Earlier you said that you (did the 4 degree addition to the timing rotor/ curve).

From that I assume you cut 4*off the back of the slot on the rotor? (to advance the rotor)

That would make all the (rotor) timing marks off  by 4*. (Correct)??

So, when you degree the cams;
   will you redo all the marks and numbers on the rotor itself
   or will you add a mark elsewhere to align the original rotor marks with?

Ride safe, Ted

 Yes when you move the Notch for the locating pin over, it now is going to rotate over, against the normal direction of engine travel= Advance. this makes the factory marks move, since you're moving the Rotor on the pin. Using a Degree Wheel or Protractor, angle finder etc. It is easy to scribe another set of marks. I did a White Paint set. Once TDC is Verified, then permanent marks can/ will be made. Also the slop in the Pin Notch can be eliminated if so desired at that time.
 A stock Rotor can be purchased if desired to re-set back. Also on Ebay there are Rotors Real reasonable, with a gasket, Like $45 shipped. Search for a Timing Rotor for a ZL, and ELS +4 should show up.
1990 ZG1000 C10
1982 KZ1000 LTD

Offline Steve in Sunny Fla

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MH, do you have any idea of the LC's you're going to dial in to? What are you targeting, lower end or higher rpms? If higher R's you may want to look at a set of zx900 or zx1000 cams from 84 to 87. They'll get you 10hp or so, and start outpulling stockers from 7000rpm up. Steve

Offline Motor Head

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 More Mid range if there is got to be a target zone to hit. Not really interested in spinning it hard, just an occasional thrill.
 No cam change for this bike is in its future. But I am willing to listen to suggestions since you are the experienced hand with these motors, and have Dyno figures to back the Info up.
 The bike is running great for such a cheap deal. I have been still getting about 43-44 consistently, and figure with out some Altitude jetting it won't change, unless I keep out of the throttle. I actually had a Very close call today with the Sheriff. Luckily only a warning. What do you do when the sign says 40, but the bike says 60 is about right?
1990 ZG1000 C10
1982 KZ1000 LTD

Offline roger dodger

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go 80 ;)
'03 FJR
'02 C10 (mia)
'81 KZ1000

Offline Steve in Sunny Fla

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MH, I kinda need to go easy here... I've been experimenting with connies like a madman for coming up on 7 years, and have tried / done all the typical hotrodding stuff - the stuff you're just starting into doing. I don't want to suppress your affinity to experiment and learn as I did, as that's kinda part of our DNA, to take stuff apart and see how it works. If I come off (as I may have already been) as a know it all, it's just going to agitate you, which isn't my intent. That said, I'll offer some info here or there, but basically try not to tell you "how the movie ends" and ruin it for you. with that in mind, I can say this on dialing in the stock cams for midrange - IMO the best midrange doesn't come from any dial in on the stock cams. You definitely can sharpen things here and there with dial in, but the REALLY BIG difference in midrange IMO wasn't borne from cam dial ins.  HTH, Steve