Hey, you wanna do all the work I've done to replicate my work? knock yourselves out. Keep in mind the time I've spent, the WBO2 sensor I purchased, the dyno time I paid for, and the tester bikes I've worked on or provided parts to. Keep in mind that nobody would get the benefit of the 2 minute mod jetting had I not stumbled onto it while dyno testing, and worked it though, as the whole concept of blocking the intake to make more power is completely against common intuitive sense. Do I make money when I sell a jet kit? Yes I do. I worked for that money. When you go to work, you expect to get paid, why would you expect less from me?
   Also, if you don't feel my product works, or is to expensive, or you don't need it, whatever, just don't buy it. Simple as that. Steve

Steve, I have no doubt that you sell a good product. I would probably purchase it and give it a try, if you did like Dynojet, Dale Walker, Factory and gave me a starting point if I wanted to deviate from what you had determined to be the ideal settings for you. I stand by my original opinion, if I buy a part I should be entitled to know what that part is, the numbers on any given part should not be ground off. I will not buy a jet kit with the numbers ground off just like I will not buy a motorcycle with the numbers ground off.

AND those manufacturers have thier own jet numbering system, AND if you are buying jets for thier kits you have to buy the new jets from them, and they're NOT 1.60 ea. Besides, why would you want to "deviate" from my jet kits? that's the whole entire point of my kits, the work is done properly for you. think about it, most guys don't want to pull there carbs once, much less multiple times to change the jets. My kits have the proper jets, and fine tuning is done with a 2 minute adjustment to the intake blockage. That's as easy as it gets, but still there's somebody not happy with the way I do stuff. Sheesh. Steve

Steve in Sunny Fla,
 I hesitate to go into the topic as it is heading down a foul path.
 I myself Can do carb work. Is your kit Plug & Play, hopefully. Maybe here in this thread you should post up some of your High Altitude Dyno results with the kit, and then also with the cam gear.
 But I do like doing All work myself, that includes Carbs.
 I did rectify my $1.60 post above. While the price doesn't include shipping, I would never order just a set of jets, so shipping for such a light Item is negligible.
 Don't take it wrong, you have spent time developing your products. Which I take that as a good thing for some, but not all.
 

I know, Dynojet gets $2.00 per main jet, I know because I run a smaller main jet than they include in their kits. They do give me the option of doing that. The starting point is there, I have the option of going richer or leaner than what they have provided. They are not so insecure that they feel the need to leave us in the dark as to what they have provided. You of all people should understand that there are many of us who are going to try different things,including you. Some of us ride in different RPM ranges than what you feel is important, some of us ride at different altitudes, some of us just like to try different things just to see how it works. I just feel like if I pay for a part I should have the right to know what it is, if for no other reason than to have a starting point for where I need to go if needed or desired.

Don, thanks for posting this, you've gotten to the heart of the matter - VALUE. let's do a breakdown to see the value of a well sorted jet kit...

Dynojet - 125.00 on average, plus shipping.

2 minute mod jet kit - shipped - 80.00

BUT, as you noted the dynojet kit is to rich (you're correct, it is. it's easier to make the kit rich to have better transitions, but it hurts economy, as you know) so you had to buy more jets. IF you got it right on the first time, that cost you 8.00 plus shipping, plus the BIGGER issue is that you had to pull the carbs AGAIN.

 So the DJ kit cost you in the 140 - 150.00 ball park, PLUS multiple carb removal and re-installations.

 A 2 minute mod jet kit is 80.00 and a one time carb pull / install.

  Since you are so Value -Minded, I'll let you do the math on that one.

  Listen guys, do what you want and enjoy it.

  Motorhead, power to you, i hope you end up really enjoying your connie, and have the satisfaction of having done it yourself.

   Don, I'm really not worried about your opinion of my kit, value, whatever - the simple fact is that you are running a DJ kit and have no intention to try my kit.  The only reason you posted up was to take a shot at me because you don't feel I'm "one of the guys" anymore, like you stated to me a couple or 3 years ago, and don't feel I have the right to post like other forum users because I'm now a "manufacturer".  Steve

Steve, you still don't get my point. It's not value, it's the fact that with the Dynojet Kit or the Dale Walker kit or the Factory kit, I get jets that are numbered. If the kit as they sell it to me does not work to my satisfaction I have a starting point. I have that number on the jets that I purchased, so I can make an educated guess as to what I want to do to correct the situation. I understand that you want to protect your income, but IMO grinding the numbers off of parts before you sell them is way out of bounds.

Yes you are right the Dynojet kit was too rich for my use, I sure am glad the jets had numbers on them so I could make a decision on which way I needed to go.

Well, realistically, you have a starting point.  Steve posted the initial steps of the 2 minute mod here for free for anyone to take advantage of.  And those instructions started with the stock jet sizes.  So there you go.  Do your own work from that point.

Steve, you still don't get my point. It's not value, it's the fact that with the Dynojet Kit or the Dale Walker kit or the Factory kit, I get jets that are numbered. If the kit as they sell it to me does not work to my satisfaction I have a starting point. I have that number on the jets that I purchased, so I can make an educated guess as to what I want to do to correct the situation. I understand that you want to protect your income, but IMO grinding the numbers off of parts before you sell them is way out of bounds.

Yes you are right the Dynojet kit was too rich for my use, I sure am glad the jets had numbers on them so I could make a decision on which way I needed to go.

   Steve has spent yrs on ZG carbs and he " finally " got the right combo after a lot of work and now you want to cash in on his time and research. Most of us gladly paid Steve for his 2mm and jet kit. And well worth it!! You can come up with all kinds of excuses to save a buck but he doesn't owe you a thing. SHEESH!!!

   Steve has spent yrs on ZG carbs and he " finally " got the right combo after a lot of work and now you want to cash in on his time and research. Most of us gladly paid Steve for his 2mm and jet kit. And well worth it!! You can come up with all kinds of excuses to save a buck but he doesn't owe you a thing. SHEESH!!!

I've tried to not reply to your comments but I just can't keep from it. I'm not looking to "cash in on his time and research", I'm not looking "to save a buck."
I'm not saying that Steve owes me anything. I am saying that if I purchase parts from someone the parts should not have numbers and markings ground off of them.
I don't claim to be God's gift to carb tuning but I do know that it's important keep track of where you started and what you do at each step you take. Knowing the size of the jets you install in your carbs is the only way you stand a chance of correcting any problems you may have and or any improvements you may think are needed. Would you be happy if your bike came from the factory with the numbers ground off of the jets? If the bike came with the numbers on the spark plugs obliterated? No you wouldn't because you would not have a baseline to make any kind of decision on where to go if you needed to go richer, leaner, hotter and or colder.
I'm sure Steve's kit is a very good product, I've read the reviews and many are quite happy with it. I've also read many reviews in the past about how good Metzler 880 tires are on the C-10. I like to know exactly what I'm installing in or on my bike so if it doesn't work to my satisfaction or if I feel I can make an improvement I do have a baseline. I guess it comes down to the fact I like to know where I'm at, so I have a chance of finding my way out on my own without having to ask someone else to come hold my hand and lead me in the proper direction. YMMV

Roadhound,
The OP was asking about "High Altitude Jetting--5000' (1,500m+) and above".   With Steve's 2mm jet kit (jet sizes ground off) you have the ability to adjust your fuel/air ratio for altitude by adjusting the amount of blockage at the intake of your air box.  No changing of jets, so no need to know what size they are.

Of all the posts I have read about Steve's products I can't remember anyone else complaining about them.  You've made it clear in a couple of post's that you do have a problem with Steve's jet kits.  That puts you in the minority ... a very small minority.

Now if we could all just change our attitude, and get back to explaining to the OP, how great Steve's 2mm jet kit will be for him, being so easy to adjust for changes in altitude.  Joe   

I've tried to not reply to your comments but I just can't keep from it. I'm not looking to "cash in on his time and research", I'm not looking "to save a buck."
I'm not saying that Steve owes me anything. I am saying that if I purchase parts from someone the parts should not have numbers and markings ground off of them.
I don't claim to be God's gift to carb tuning but I do know that it's important keep track of where you started and what you do at each step you take. Knowing the size of the jets you install in your carbs is the only way you stand a chance of correcting any problems you may have and or any improvements you may think are needed. Would you be happy if your bike came from the factory with the numbers ground off of the jets? If the bike came with the numbers on the spark plugs obliterated? No you wouldn't because you would not have a baseline to make any kind of decision on where to go if you needed to go richer, leaner, hotter and or colder.
I'm sure Steve's kit is a very good product, I've read the reviews and many are quite happy with it. I've also read many reviews in the past about how good Metzler 880 tires are on the C-10. I like to know exactly what I'm installing in or on my bike so if it doesn't work to my satisfaction or if I feel I can make an improvement I do have a baseline. I guess it comes down to the fact I like to know where I'm at, so I have a chance of finding my way out on my own without having to ask someone else to come hold my hand and lead me in the proper direction. YMMV

I like to know where I'm at, so I have a chance of finding my way out on my own without having to ask someone else to come hold my hand and lead me in the proper direction.

Please take my hand so that I may lead you in the proper direction. No you  do not have to ask but you surely need  help to see the light. With Steve's Jet Kit you have reached your final destination, Nirvana, Shangra La or in your language you have now reached the 'End Point'.  No longer will you have to Start Again with yet another Starting Point   because from now on  all you have to do  (rarely  needed after doing it once) is to simply increase or decrease the amount of foam blocking the intake area.
We do appreciate your input but in this case you are not correct in asking some one to give up all their hard a work just because you think you need a starting point  each time you make a change.  If you really need a starting point then remove it and put it back to where you started and then look really really close at where the numbers are ground off and you can clearly see the teeny tiny letters engraved there-  R.I.P. 

Let us pray this is the end of this thread. Please.

Ok, getting back to my old note/question: 

Original thought/question;
Soo,,,, my thought is (a person might be able to jett extra lean for Hi Altitude and add restricter in the airbox when you go down to the flatlands....)
My thinking is this might give you the best of both worlds..
Is this a viable solution?
 By the way, Steve join in with your thoughts.
    Have you already built a 2 min kit for altitude and do you recommend changing restriction if you use that kit at lower altuitudes?

RESTATEMENT
My question is, can a person jett extra lean for high altitudes and restrict intake when you go down in altitude?
                         Steve, do you offer a special 2 minute kit for the guys that live up high?
                                    do you feel your existing kit will work as it is, and simply change the size of the restriction
                                       for different altitudes?
                          what do the rest of you think about this idea?

Ride safe, Ted

NOTE: On another discussion Jim Snyder said:
Heres where my adjustable intake plate would come in handy in conjunction with Steve's 2 min jetting.
If you knew where to set the air intake at high altitude and where to set it for lower ones, you could
mark the plate with a sharpie and simply move it to the desired location needed for the specific altitude.

Sounds like it will work to me!! (Ted)

That gives me an idea for an overly complicated and undoubtedly expensive invention.  A barometrically adjusted 2-minute-mod block-off plate.     That would even re-tune the engine as the weather changes for optimal power and efficiency.  Riding through a hurricane?  No problem, even when you get through the eye wall.  A good old New England Nor'Easter?  No problem.  Alberta Clippers?  No problem.   

That gives me an idea for an overly complicated and undoubtedly expensive invention.  A barometrically adjusted 2-minute-mod block-off plate.     That would even re-tune the engine as the weather changes for optimal power and efficiency.  Riding through a hurricane?  No problem, even when you get through the eye wall.  A good old New England Nor'Easter?  No problem.  Alberta Clippers?  No problem.   

...and now we're in "just fit the damn thing with aftermarket FI" territory.   

I'm going to go with a kit from SISF.

Maybe the reason that he grinds off the jet number is that once he modifies it, it's no longer that number.  If you start with a 120 and machine it, it's no longer a 120.  To keep the stock numbering on that jet is disingenuous, no?

I can't wait to have a bike that's not as rich as a Wall Street banker.

...and now we're in "just fit the damn thing with aftermarket FI" territory.   

Let's see.  Mason jar, rubber band, balloon, and then an extremely complicated linkage to make that little bit of movement adjust the block-off.  As long as you don't have an Audiovox cruise control installed, the Mason jar can go behind the side panel.   

Let's see.  Mason jar, rubber band, balloon, and then an extremely complicated linkage to make that little bit of movement adjust the block-off.  As long as you don't have an Audiovox cruise control installed, the Mason jar can go behind the side panel.   

No cruise control, and no Cali emissions stuff either pretty soon.

Steve has spent hundreds of hours and probably thousands of $$$ perfecting the 2 min mod kit. And what was the result? It works, plain and simple. There is no need for numbers on anything, you DO NOT NEED TO CHANGE THE JETS EVER !!! You simply modify the amount of air going into the airbox to fit your particular application. Once the airflow is properly regulated your bike will respond better than it ever has.
I like Steve have pulled carbs and exhausts off of bikes more times than I care to remember. If I never have to pull Connie's carbs off again it will be too soon. I built an adjustable airbox intake plate to make my adjustments easier. Once I found the "sweet spot" she runs better than she ever has. And as far as Dyno jet kits are concerned, I have installed atleast 25 of them for customers over the years, and very few of them were ever right on the 1st, or 2nd, or 3rd time the carbs were pulled and re-installed. Steve's kit was dead on the first time, but that was due to his hard work and dedication to get it right before putting it on the market. I am proud to have been one of Steve's test pilots for his 7th Gear unit, and a Junior test pilot on the new 2 min mod. Bottom line is it works, so buy it. !!!   

If I was going to go the semi-custom kit route, I would be installing a Factory Pro kit, not DynoJunk anyway.  Not a big fan of drilling out a bazillion dollars worth of carb slides.

  Since the thread still appears to have some traction, let me throw some carb tuning thoughts in here.

   First, when considering carb tuning, it's kind of like taking a road trip; you can take lots of different routes to get to the same place. Some routes may be more efficient, some may be more fun, some routes seem to go in different directions, but in the end are about the same, time and mileage-wise. Carb tuning is like that; lots of ways to get to where your going.

   When carbs are properly tuned, they're running properly at all throttle positions and rpms. Tuning isn't targeted to make one rpm range better at the risk of making another worse, unless you're racing and the lower rpms just don't matter.

  Economy and good carburetion generally go together. It's hard to get though. Easy to just jet rich and get good transitions but lose economy. I don't do that with my jetting.

   Drilling holes in slides just lets the slides repond more quickly up, but also down. The result can be jumpy slides. I opted to not do that with my kits, as vibration on a connie is always an issue, and I wanted smooth operation.

  The foam block - while we've already discussed the tuning flexibility afforded by changing the air rather than changing the jets, the REAL reason for the foam block was to increase the low end and midrange power. Basically the cams / ports for the zg1000 are to big, and there tends to be alot of reversion pulses back through the carbs at lower rpms. This creates multiple carburetion, and lessens available torque because less charge is trapped in the cylinder. Blocking the intake suppresses these pulses and keeps the cylinders filled better.

  While some(one) may point to the little sticker on the airbox that says "never let anything obstruct the airbox inlet" and say it's "out of bounds" for me to violate that warning, let me offer this - I have dyno charts of Shoodaben making 117 hp with 1/2 of the airbox intake blocked. The point is that a stock connie, in the 89 hp range, will never be air starved by blocking the intake as the 2 minute mod jet kit does.

 And Azbike, I agree, the FP kits are superior to the DJ kits. I run FP needles in my 36's. The 32's (zg1000 carbs) work great with the stock needles, perfect for power and economy due to the multiple tapers, which are pretty much unheard of in the aftermarket. HTH, Steve