The Fuzeblock has a switched and non-switched position for each connection wired to it.  I have my Fuzeblock connection to accessory ports (Powerlet type for GPS/phone/heated gear etc.) using fuse positions on the switched side so they go on and off with the bike.  Then I have a connection that has the fuse on the non-switched side so it's powered all the time that I can use for a battery tender or whatever.  Other than the Fuzeblock I don't have anything directly connected to the battery.

I would not attach a charging cable to the block.  I just don't think that is a good idea. ...

Out of curiosity, why?

Just seems like a bad idea to charge the battery through the ectra wiring/fuse block.  Granted the battery tender charges at something like 1.25 amps but I just wouldn't feel confortable running through all of that extra wiring and such.  It may very well work like a charm.  I just wouldn't be confortable with it.

Before I installed my tender lead I used my fuse block to trickle charge with no ill effects.  I did use 10 gauge wire from the battery to fuse block.  I even felt the wire after several hours to feel if it was getting hot and it was cool to the touch.  But you are correct about feeling comfortable, I installed the tender lead the other day to make everything "right".

All my power runs through the Fuzeblock firect from battery and switched via the rear accessory lead.


Except the tender lead which comes off the Fuzeblock, using the non-switched side.

Not sure why is would be an issue, using appropriate gauge wire, fuse etc there is no reason this would have a problem.

So here's a twist. I just received a 12 Amp inline noise filter. My plan was to run this between the battery and fuzeblock. I power the zumo, starcom1, bluetooth module and sometimes phone from it.

But with the battery tender also hanging off the fuzeblock, I don't think that will work. So I now have to move the tender lead.

All my power runs through the Fuzeblock firect from battery and switched via the rear accessory lead.


Except the tender lead which comes off the Fuzeblock, using the non-switched side.

Not sure why is would be an issue, using appropriate gauge wire, fuse etc there is no reason this would have a problem.

I have a related question.  I plan on setting up mine the same way.  However, if you use the accessory lead for the switched portion, aren't you limited to 5 amps for what you hook up the fuzeblock?  I would think that if you pull let's say 10 amps through the switched portion of the fuzeblock you are going to run into a fuse problem on the bike itself.  Or does fuzeblock only uses the switched portion to turn on those circuits and you are still the current directly from the battery through the fuzeblock's main 30 amp circuit?  Does this make sense?

-David
Athens, GA

That's exactly how I have mine setup as well. 

The question does make sense, if the fuzeblock output was being powered by the 5 amp accessory lead, but its not.  You only use the accessory lead to drive the relay in the fuzeblock which then controls the switched output power. I run a separate 12v line direct from the battery which supplies the power with a 25amp fuse. The fuzeblock then outputs this power with via separate fuses to each device either switched or not.

Does that clear it up?