Time to buy rear tire - which size 190/50 or 190/55

[con05]

It's time to buy a new rear tire to match the PR2 front tire. What would be the height difference with stock set up between the 50 vs. the 55?
Prices are very good right now so the time has arrived to decide.  Thanks

[So Cal Joe]

I have a 55 on the rear of my 09, it's just a little but taller, I couldn't tell any difference. Some say it corners better than the 50 but I went from the stock 021 on the rear to the 023  55 so anything is better than the stock tire.

[ZedHed]

Why use a NON-factory specified size tire when you can lower the front forks in the triple clamps and achieve the same result?  If you want to "quicken" the handling, just adjust the fork position ala track bikes and don't experiment with tire sizes.  Racing bikes even incorporate adjusters in the triple clamps for this very purpose -- change the steering geometry, not the tire size !!

[davidnixon]

+ 55  handles significantly better than the 50
+ 55 appears to increase the accuracy of the speedo

+/-  55 creates SLIGHTLY taller gearing - lower RPM's at cruising speed / little slower out of the hole IMO

[Gearhead82]

Why use a NON-factory specified size tire when you can lower the front forks in the triple clamps and achieve the same result?  If you want to "quicken" the handling, just adjust the fork position ala track bikes and don't experiment with tire sizes.  Racing bikes even incorporate adjusters in the triple clamps for this very purpose -- change the steering geometry, not the tire size !!

The tire information sticker on the bike also "specifies" that you should use OEM Bridgestone BT-021 tires, so if you're using a different brand or model, then you're already not using the specified tire.  Plus there are a lot of advantages to going to the 55 rear tire.  Firstly, you'll be gaining ground clearance for corners instead of losing it by dropping the front of the bike.  Secondly the slightly taller 55 corrects for almost all of the 4-5% speedo error the bike comes with from the factory.  Plus it's not just a slightly taller tire, it's also shaped differently which allows it to fall into the corners a little quicker.

To answer the OP's question. . . I believe the 55 is about 1/2" taller in diameter, meaning it will raise the rear about 1/4".  To me, I could tell the difference in seat height immediately.  I'm guessing going from a worn 190/50 to a brand new 190/55 was probably closer to 1/2" change in rear height.  As an added bonus, the bike practically puts itself on the center stand now since it now hits the ground at an angle that gives a little more leverage.  I can't think of any disadvantage to going with the 190/55 unless the bike is already too tall for you.

[Spanky]

I am with Gearhead. The factory specified the worst handling stock tires I have ever experienced, so I am not so sure that sticking with what they specify is the best bet. I have had 50's for several tire changes and now have a 55. Future tires will be a 55 on my bike. I highly recommend the PR3. I like them alot.

[Jeremy Mitchell]

Why use a NON-factory specified size tire when you can lower the front forks in the triple clamps and achieve the same result?  If you want to "quicken" the handling, just adjust the fork position ala track bikes and don't experiment with tire sizes.  Racing bikes even incorporate adjusters in the triple clamps for this very purpose -- change the steering geometry, not the tire size !!

You can go ahead and use a 190/50, nobody said you HAVE to use the 55.  But you are missing out on better handling characteristics.  In addition to "quicken[ing]" the handling it also feels more stable while leaned over in a corner which, for me creates confidence since it doesn't feel as twitchy. 

As previously mentioned the speedo correction is just icing on the cake.  My C14 travels at 61 mph instead of 63 at an indicated 60 when I was still using the 50.

[Gearhead82]

You can go ahead and use a 190/50, nobody said you HAVE to use the 55.  But you are missing out on better handling characteristics.  In addition to "quicken[ing]" the handling it also feels more stable while leaned over in a corner which, for me creates confidence since it doesn't feel as twitchy. 

As previously mentioned the speedo correction is just icing on the cake.  My C14 travels at 61 mph instead of 63 at an indicated 60 when I was still using the 50.

I think it should be the other way around, right?  I know that my indicated speed read higher than my actual speed.  So with the 190/50 my indicated would be 63 while my actual was 60.  Now with the 190/55 an indicated 61 is actually 60.

[Jeremy Mitchell]

I think it should be the other way around, right?  I know that my indicated speed read higher than my actual speed.  So with the 190/50 my indicated would be 63 while my actual was 60.  Now with the 190/55 an indicated 61 is actually 60.

Isn't that what I said? 


To clarify: (our results are exactly the same)

190/55- Indicated 61 mph, Actual speed 60

190/50- Indicated 63 mph, Actual speed 60

[wally_games]

Isn't that what I said? 


To clarify: (our results are exactly the same)

190/55- Indicated 61 mph, Actual speed 60

190/50- Indicated 63 mph, Actual speed 60

I'm about to change out my well worn 190/50 OEM this week and still debating the whole 55 vs. 50 issue. But, I did a test this weekend testing my speed variances and here's what I got (indicated/actual):

40/36
60/55
80/75
100/95
/130 (wasn't looking at the speedo, Garmin remembered the actual!!)

I was very surprised that once I got to about 50 mph, the actual was consistently 5 mph less than indicated. I did not try to check at any lower speeds because my BLACK 2011 would not go any slower.   

Trying to go back to my highschool math, it appears to my very quick calculations that the change from 50 to 55 would change your speedo error by about a hair over 3%. So, at 60 mph it would correct the speed by about 2 mph. Either way, if you're under the limit on your speedo, you're not going to get a ticket for going too fast.

I'll try to retest the accuracy of my comparison once the new tires are installed, regardless of which size I end up buying.

[lt1]

Isn't that what I said? 

To clarify: (our results are exactly the same)

190/55- Indicated 61 mph, Actual speed 60

190/50- Indicated 63 mph, Actual speed 60

No.  You had it backwards on the first post.

[Jeremy Mitchell]

No.  You had it backwards on the first post.

Got it.  I had to go back and re read it for the third time to realize that I need to "strike that and reverse it."

[wally_games]

OMG!! 

I just called D&S Honda/Kawasaki in Arlington, TX about the price to put some new Michelin PR3's on my bike.

Front tire: $203
Rear (190/50): $280, the 190/55 was $293
Installation: $80 x 2 = $160

Total price with the 190/50 rear: $643 PLUS tax and disposal (over $700 OTD)

How do they ever stay in business?? Same deal at Grapevine Kawasaki is ~$447 OTD for the 190/50.

I know, I know, you can get the tires for about $290-325 online, but it seems just about everyone wants $100+ to mount tires on the bike. So, it's not really that much more at $447 OTD. Since I live so far from the dealership and would have to make a separate trip to get the tires and the bike there at the same time, I think it's probably worth the extra bucks.

[Gearhead82]

OMG!! 

I just called D&S Honda/Kawasaki in Arlington, TX about the price to put some new Michelin PR3's on my bike.

Front tire: $203
Rear (190/50): $280, the 190/55 was $293
Installation: $80 x 2 = $160

Total price with the 190/50 rear: $643 PLUS tax and disposal (over $700 OTD)

How do they ever stay in business?? Same deal at Grapevine Kawasaki is ~$447 OTD for the 190/50.

I know, I know, you can get the tires for about $290-325 online, but it seems just about everyone wants $100+ to mount tires on the bike. So, it's not really that much more at $447 OTD. Since I live so far from the dealership and would have to make a separate trip to get the tires and the bike there at the same time, I think it's probably worth the extra bucks.

Wow, that is insane!

Have you considered removing the wheels from the bike and bringing them, along with the new tires to the shop?  It only takes a few minutes and mount/balance is usually significantly cheaper if you bring the wheels instead of the whole bike.  Plus you could order your tires online and only have to make one trip to the dealer.

[Jeremy Mitchell]

Wow, that is insane!

Have you considered removing the wheels from the bike and bringing them, along with the new tires to the shop?  It only takes a few minutes and mount/balance is usually significantly cheaper if you bring the wheels instead of the whole bike.  Plus you could order your tires online and only have to make one trip to the dealer.

+1 on bringing in the wheels with the new tires.

@Wally_games I bet if you call around your area you might be able to find a place that can give you a better price on mount and balance.  If you are close to a college town there are usually scooter shops that have really reasonable prices on tires changing. 

[roadie]

Wow, that is insane!

Have you considered removing the wheels from the bike and bringing them, along with the new tires to the shop?  It only takes a few minutes and mount/balance is usually significantly cheaper if you bring the wheels instead of the whole bike.  Plus you could order your tires online and only have to make one trip to the dealer.

How to safely remove both wheels, thereby making only one trip? I had to make two trips when I took this route.   I bought a tire changer 3 months ago, and soon will do my "maiden" tire change.  Sure curse words will ensue, but gotta learn sometime.

[ZG]

How to safely remove both wheels, thereby making only one trip? I had to make two trips when I took this route.   I bought a tire changer 3 months ago, and soon will do my "maiden" tire change.  Sure curse words will ensue, but gotta learn sometime.

 

[wally_games]

If my calculations are correct, I figure that I would save about $75-90 by pulling the wheels and reinstalling them myself. While I'm fully confident that I can do those operations, I'm wondering how much time would be involved and what that time is worth. My comfort level might be higher if I had it done by someone with the proper equipment and experience, at least this first time.

Of course, that's about the cost of as set of Tech Spec tank protection. 

[gPink]

The independent shop down the rode from me gives me a decent price and mount and balance is around $30/tire. He won't mount tires he doesn't sell. I don't mind paying him a little more than internet prices. He can get the same parts as the local dealer and if I need any non warranty work done his shop gets it. Support your local independent shop if you can. I don't ride through enough rubber to do it myself. And I hate changing tires.

[roadie]

 

That's not safe for me (notice didn't say "to" me...sure others can do that safely).  I'm that guy whose bike would take a dump.