Author Topic: Bodyworking the Bodywork.  (Read 5065 times)

Offline elvin315

  • Administrator
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 140
  • Country: us
Bodyworking the Bodywork.
« on: May 18, 2011, 10:40:41 pm »

To avoid repainting perform your repair on the inside surface. If you mate the edges carefully the crack almost disappears. Cover the painted side of the crack with Blue Painter's Tape. Press the tape into the crack to seal it and hopefully prevent the cement from leaking out. From the backside grind a "U" shaped channel into the crack but not deep enough to penetrate the painted surface. Use a Dremel type tool.

Clean the area with ABS cleaner to ensure a clean, greaseless surface. Brush a little ABS cement into the channel. It will seep into the crack and fuse the edges. After it dries fill the channel using filler from an ABS repair kit, or disolve ABS shavings into some ABS cement and make your own filler putty, or some JB Weld. After the filler dries grind it flush. Coat the repair area with JB Weld and a patch of wire or fiberglass window mesh to reinforce the repair. I lay a thin coat of JB Weld and press the screen mesh into it, then cover it with another coat of JB Weld. Just like working drywall. I also used two-part epoxy to reinforce a long crack. I laid a thick puddle of the epoxy over the crack, on the inside of the lower panel, and sunk short lengths of shirt hanger wire into that, across the crack line, for extra strength.

Broken or missing tabs can be built up using the materials in some of the kits below, scrap ABS plastic, or some JB Weld. Whatever material you choose, you build a raw tab and grind and drill it with a Dremel tool after it hardens.

Plastic welding fuses the pieces together without any glue nor does it need reinforcement. The welders are able to penetrate deeply for a thicker bond. It's really nothing more than a soldering iron or hot air gun and plastic rods of ABS Plastic to match your fairing. If painting is necessary visit Color-Rite:

Black Plastic Repairs:
All the Black Plastic on the Concours is made of Polypropylene. It's a thermoplastic and melts & smears when grinding or sanding. It doesn't bond well but it takes a plastic weld using polypropylene rods. Broken or cracked luggage tabs should be plastic welded and/or reinforced with aluminum patches secured with rivets. Other black plastic parts don't need the aluminum reinforcement.

Stay away from glues and cements for luggage repairs. This isn't a mug handle you're repairing. Any repair to luggage has to stand up to vibrations,  jolts, and the weight of its contents. If the cement fails your belongings will be scattered on the highway. All plastics are not alike. ABS cement is for ABS plastic. Polypropylene is best repaired with plastic welding.

Scratches in polypropylene can sometimes be touched up using a butane lighter or propane torch to melt the frayed edges back into the lid surface. Set at low flame and use  flame spreader tip.
WARNING: Don't let the flame touch the plastic or it could melt or warp.

Offline MrPepsi

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 1106
  • Country: 00
Re: Bodyworking the Bodywork.
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2011, 09:03:37 am »

No affiliation, but I've used their product on my C-10 when I had it. Its very easy to use, but they have a new website.
Very easy to use, you just need to be patient and let it set overnight at least.
Brent Johnson 
2009 C-14 "Razzi"