Making Fairing Pocket Keyless?

[kzz1king]

I would like to convert one of my pockets to a knob for keyless operation. I always write down my fill ups and mileage and stuff. It is a pain between unlocking and then using the key to shut the tank lid and then the same for the pocket and then back to the ignition! Poor me. Anyone done this? Thanks
Wayne

[Outback_Jon]

Someone used to sell replacement knobs that could be installed.  Don't know if they are still available. 

One other option I remember someone doing was to get a spare key and a plastic knob.  Cut a slot in the knob, and grind/cut the top of the key down to fit.  Then some epoxy to attach the key to the knob.  Key/knob could then be inserted into the lock and used to open and close it.  This method had the added advantage of being able to lock the compartments if you wanted to by removing the key/knob.

I've solved the problem of having to take the key from the ignition to unlock my saddlebags by using a key ring that separates into two parts.  My ignition key is on one side and the saddlebag key and trunk key are on the other part.  I guess you could also do this with two ignition keys for opening the fairing pockets.  But it is nearly as much hassle as just taking the ignition key out.  I only do it if I have started the bike and am waiting for it to warm up and realize I have to put something into the trunk.

EDIT:  Just found the knobs.  http://bucksporttouring.com/accessory1.html 

[Centex]

Does this accomplish what you want?

2 keys at $4.25 each + Radio Shack knobs 2-pack @ $1.99 + JB weld on hand.  Use sandpaper to shave knobs down to 1/2" thick; cut-down key held by setscrew in brass ferrule + JB weld.

They work just fine with gloves and they stay-put just fine when riding.

I did this over a year ago and they still work great .... I very rarely pull the knobs to "lock" the doors when I leave the bike, but its handy to have the option.

[kzz1king]

I like the "key in knob" thing.  Thanks guys.
Wayne

[turbojoe78]

If you remove one of the tumblers from the pocket locks and the gas cap lock then modify the "knob keys" they will work in the pockets and gas cap, but will not be able to be used in the ignition.

You can also modify your gas cap by carefully grinding away a little metal from part of it's latching mechanisim, so you can shut your gas cap without having to use the key.

[The Other Brian]

Some have one of these http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=4LHR1&op=search&Ntt=4LHR1&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset

[kzz1king]

I like the gas cap idea. What material needs to be removed?

You can also modify your gas cap by carefully grinding away a little metal from part of it's latching mechanisim, so you can shut your gas cap without having to use the key.
[/quote]

[Stasch]

Materials:  One black (or color of your choice) quart oil filler cap.  One key - I preferred to use a flat hardware store key rather than an OEM key.  2 Part epoxy such as JB Weld.

Eyeball the key against the cap and pocket door. 

Cut / grind off the key so the knob will be closer to flush with the pocket and doesn't look wonky. 

Mix up some 2 part epoxy inside the cap, enough to fill it up 90% or so. 

Put the top of the key in the epoxy (not the bottom!)

Prop it so its centered and straight somehow (don't remember how I did this) and let it cure. 

If you remove one of the tumblers from the pocket locks and the gas cap lock then modify the "knob keys" they will work in the pockets and gas cap, but will not be able to be used in the ignition.

I did this so that the knob / key assembly only works on the fairing pockets only.  The ignition key will still open the fairing pockets. 

The end result blends right into the cockpit and is practically unnoticeable.  Sometimes I pull the knob / key and put it in my pocket just in case.  Most of the time it stays in though.

[ManWorkinghere]

When I take my lunch break I will snap a few pics of my Graninger-purchased replacement Pocket lock.  Didn't cost much.  I put it on my left pocket.

The twist-to-close feature works with or without your riding gloves.

Thumb turn cam lock, Cylinder Length 5/8 In.
Grainger Item #   4LHR1   
Price (ea.)   $6.26   
Brand   COMPX FORT   
Mfr. Model #   MFWTT058   
 

[turbojoe78]

I like the gas cap idea. What material needs to be removed?

You can also modify your gas cap by carefully grinding away a little metal from part of it's latching mechanisim, so you can shut your gas cap without having to use the key.

It's been 2 years since I did mine so I don't remember exactly how it's done.  I got the info from the old forum (before the crash) and lost the info.

I know it's not that difficult to figure out when it's all apart and you see how the latch slides back when you turn the key.  What you do is try to just push the latch back in with out the key, and see what stops it from going back.  Then you grind down that area that stops the latch from going back so you can get the latch to go back by pushing it back by hand.

I will be taking my cap (and everything else) off the tank so I can seal the tank. (found a little rust inside)   When I have it all apart I'll try to take some pictures of the latch assembly to show the area that needs to be ground down.

[Centex]

As long as you make the "knob key" so the knob sits against the face of the lock on the side pockets, it will not operate the ignition (it can't set deep enough into the recess of the ignition lock to turn the ignition switch at all)   

[kzz1king]

As long as you make the "knob key" so the knob sits against the face of the lock on the side pockets, it will not operate the ignition (it can't set deep enough into the recess of the ignition lock to turn the ignition switch at all)   

That is good to know. Wife went to have a key made. Sent a list of brands and numbers but sale clerk used his trained eye. Key didn'twork!
Wayne

[turbojoe78]

I like the gas cap idea. What material needs to be removed?



Here are some pictures of my gas cap latch, if you compare them to yours you can see the area to grind away so you can shut your gas cap without having to use the key.

I would suggest removing the gas cap from the bike, turning it upside down to work on it.

Remove the two screws tword the middle and lift the latch and housing off the gas cap (the rubber seal will lift off with it).

Remove the rubber seal and the metal plate that sits on the lock cylinder housing (be careful not to lose the small metal ring that sits on the post on top of the lock cylinder).

That's all you should have now is the latch, the housing and the spring that pushes the latch out.

Remove the latch from the housing by pulling up on the spring and sliding the latch back and up.

You should be able to tell now from the pictures what area to grind out so the latch will not be stopped by the post with the small metal ring on top of the lock cylinder when going back in.

[kzz1king]

THANKS, good stuff.
Wayne

[ddback]

I solved the problem by disassembling the lock and grinding out the cylinder wall (it's plastic) where the lock plates need to go to let you remove the key in the unlocked position. The problem is that the plates in the cylinder are unable to move outward, thereby locking the key into the cylinder.

Really simple. Take lock out of door. Remove E-clip from bottom of lock (holds the metal latch on).

Now, with key in lock, slide lock cylinder out (keeping keep in lock enables you to prevent loss of the lock plates).

Look into lock body from either end - you'll notice there are depressions at 180 degrees from each other - this allows the lock plates in the cylinder (little brass plates the key moves) to move outward when you remove the key.

All you need to do is grind/file similar slots at 90 degrees from current slots.

Now my locks release the key when it's unlocked.

Also, the runner seals in both doors were gone on my bike. I was going to replace them with new ones ($5 each), but I since I had just bought a tube of silicone for another problem, I figures I'd use some of it up. I just filled the slots where the rubber seals go, smoothed the silicone to level with a wet finger and let cure overnight. Doors are now snug and water tight!.

[bbarrows]

I have the old snap on pocket covers, which, of course, were keyless, but the snaps corrode and then tear off so I just threw the covers away making the pockets not only keyless but cover less as well. If that is  a solution for you.

[kzz1king]

You might be a connie redneck if...........

I have the old snap on pocket covers, which, of course, were keyless, but the snaps corrode and then tear off so I just threw the covers away making the pockets not only keyless but cover less as well. If that is  a solution for you.

[timmerz]

 

You might be a connie redneck if...........

I have the same snap covers on mine and the snaps are mostly gone...if anybody has seen any really inspiring threads on getting new covers for the first gen that either snap or close tightly in some way, I'd be most interested...don't need them to lock, necessarily, but weater-proof would not be a bad thing...

[kzz1king]

I know,my 86 was the same way. Will the late model plastic snap in there? Covers are nice.
Wayne

[timmerz]

Wish I had more metal-fab experience...that would be a great product to market for first-gen Connie owners...aluminum fit-in lids for the pockets, painted black to match...push them into the pocket recess, and they would stay in snugly, and the entire top would be a lid that opens from inside edge out...