Author Topic: Show us your Canyon Cage  (Read 135027 times)

Offline fsr402

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #320 on: August 20, 2012, 07:46:53 pm »
Got mine in the mail today. They sure are built well and damn they are heavy.
Not sure when I'll have time to put them on, it may end up being a winter project. Would really like to get a center stand first also. Figure that would make it easier to work on.

Offline maxtog

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #321 on: August 20, 2012, 08:10:30 pm »
Would really like to get a center stand first also. Figure that would make it easier to work on.

Did you remove your center stand?
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc

Offline Conrad

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #322 on: August 21, 2012, 04:57:17 am »
Got mine in the mail today. They sure are built well and damn they are heavy.
Not sure when I'll have time to put them on, it may end up being a winter project. Would really like to get a center stand first also. Figure that would make it easier to work on.

So you'll be riding around unprotected while the CCs sit in the garage?    :o
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

"Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn

Offline h2oplayer

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #323 on: August 21, 2012, 07:30:07 am »
These take an hour to put on if you take your time. Time the time.

Offline fsr402

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #324 on: August 21, 2012, 10:08:43 am »
Did you remove your center stand?
previous owner did when he put on the Muzy 4 into 2 exhaust.


 
So you'll be riding around unprotected while the CCs sit in the garage?    :o
Yeah I know, I'll drop the bike soon.  :(

These take an hour to put on if you take your time. Time the time.

Being I have never had the body off this bike I'm thinking it will be a bit longer than that.

Offline h2oplayer

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #325 on: August 21, 2012, 10:29:29 am »
You do not have to pull the plastic to install the bars.

Offline Rhino

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #326 on: August 21, 2012, 10:36:07 am »
In fact the plastic HAS to be on the bike to install the bars.

Offline fsr402

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #327 on: August 21, 2012, 10:58:57 am »
In fact the plastic HAS to be on the bike to install the bars.
How the hell do you get them on without pulling the lower panels?

Offline Conrad

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #328 on: August 21, 2012, 11:17:56 am »
In fact the plastic HAS to be on the bike to install the bars.

That's not true. Not for a Gen 1 anyways. I did the cut out mod so that the bars do not have to be removed in order to take the plastic off. I installed the bars with no plastic on, then reinstalled the plastic.

Seems that a lot of guys are nervous about removing the plastic. Just do it. Keep notes as to where all the fasteners go as you go along. I had a large piece of cardboard and as I remove fasteners I place them on the cardboard and make notes. I've had the plastic off a few times now and I no longer have to take notes.

While you have the plastic off, check the header nuts and your coolant. It would be a good time to change the coolant if it needs it.
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

"Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn

Offline fsr402

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #329 on: August 21, 2012, 11:30:31 am »
Yeah I have a Gen 1 and I can't see any way I'm getting my hands in thru that vent. Was also planning to cut the top vent like I have seen here.

Offline h2oplayer

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #330 on: August 21, 2012, 11:36:05 am »
For a Gen 2 bike the plastic needs to be in place when you install the cage. Start on the right side of the bike. Do not loosen up the left front until after you have tightened up the right front motor mount. There have been a few cases were the engine settles and requires realigning to get the bolt holes to line back up. You will not be able to tighten the rear until you finish the left side. I istalled this with a helper standing by to support the weight of the cage while I lined everything up.

Remove rear mounting bolt and front right engine mounting bolt.
Hold cage in place and put new rear bolt inplace.
Install new front bolt and partialy thread it in. Use an extention with your ratchet to get you outside the plastics
Before tightening this up put the lower brace inplace and get the nut started on the bracket. I found it pretty simple to reach in through the top vent to do this.

snug up the bolts starting with the front engine mount and then the nut and lower fron cage bolt then go back and torque to spec. You will tighten the rear when you install the left side.

The left side is easier than the right pretty much the same process as the right side but the inside lower bracket is easier to get inplace.

Now that I have done it I could do it in less than 15 minutes.

If this gives you any trouble feel free to give me a call. My number is in my profile.

Offline h2oplayer

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #331 on: August 21, 2012, 11:37:17 am »
Sorry,

I just saw your posting that this is a gen 1. My advise is pretty usless for the gen 1 sorry.

Offline fsr402

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #332 on: August 21, 2012, 11:47:33 am »
Sorry,

I just saw your posting that this is a gen 1. My advise is pretty usless for the gen 1 sorry.

No problem man. Got your Voice Mail. It was really cool of you to call and try to help like that.

Offline Rhino

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #333 on: August 21, 2012, 12:43:13 pm »
Opps sorry as well. I was also only thinking gen 2.

Offline fsr402

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #334 on: August 21, 2012, 01:20:25 pm »
I went out at break and tried to shove my hand in there, yeah not going to happen. lol

Now the question is do I work on the bike tonight and try to get these on or work on my new hunting blind? decisions decisions

Offline backoutonthehighway

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #335 on: August 21, 2012, 01:26:09 pm »
I went out at break and tried to shove my hand in there, yeah not going to happen. lol

Now the question is do I work on the bike tonight and try to get these on or work on my new hunting blind? decisions decisions

When does hunting season start?
2011 Kawasaki Concours 14 | 2006 Kawasaki 1500 Vulcan Classic | 2003 Yamaha Star 650 (Sold)

Offline backoutonthehighway

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #336 on: August 21, 2012, 01:28:47 pm »
For a Gen 2 bike the plastic needs to be in place when you install the cage. Start on the right side of the bike. Do not loosen up the left front until after you have tightened up the right front motor mount. There have been a few cases were the engine settles and requires realigning to get the bolt holes to line back up. You will not be able to tighten the rear until you finish the left side. I istalled this with a helper standing by to support the weight of the cage while I lined everything up.

Remove rear mounting bolt and front right engine mounting bolt.
Hold cage in place and put new rear bolt inplace.
Install new front bolt and partialy thread it in. Use an extention with your ratchet to get you outside the plastics
Before tightening this up put the lower brace inplace and get the nut started on the bracket. I found it pretty simple to reach in through the top vent to do this.

snug up the bolts starting with the front engine mount and then the nut and lower fron cage bolt then go back and torque to spec. You will tighten the rear when you install the left side.

The left side is easier than the right pretty much the same process as the right side but the inside lower bracket is easier to get inplace.

Now that I have done it I could do it in less than 15 minutes.

If this gives you any trouble feel free to give me a call. My number is in my profile.

Wish I had read this first. Also wish I had cleaned all the red gunk out before I tried threading in the new bolts. I didn't and ended up crossthreading the right motor mount. $70 tow charge and $95 to re-tap the motormounts. <sign>. Went on like clockwork after that.

FWIW - YMMV.

Cheers!

Bill
2011 Kawasaki Concours 14 | 2006 Kawasaki 1500 Vulcan Classic | 2003 Yamaha Star 650 (Sold)

Offline Conrad

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #337 on: August 21, 2012, 01:36:22 pm »
I went out at break and tried to shove my hand in there, yeah not going to happen. lol

Now the question is do I work on the bike tonight and try to get these on or work on my new hunting blind? decisions decisions

Do the bike first, just in case...
Northern Illinois   Silverdammit '08 C-14 ABS

"Don't bother me with facts, Son. I've already made up my mind." -Foghorn Leghorn

Offline Gumby

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #338 on: August 21, 2012, 03:54:22 pm »
Not so sure I would recommend  this, but it works. I was stressing for 12 miles, and it got worse with every bump.  Kootos to MCEnterprises and their well built tip over protection. 










Offline maxtog

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Re: Show us your Canyon Cage
« Reply #339 on: August 21, 2012, 04:31:17 pm »
These take an hour to put on if you take your time. Time the time.

It took me and my mechanic friend considerably longer than an hour to put them on mine.  But it would probably take considerably less once it has been done before...
Shoodaben (was Guhl) Mountain Runner ECU flash, Canyon Cages front/rear, Helibars risers, Phil's wedges, Grip Puppies, Sargent World seat-low & heated & pod, Muzzy lowering links, Soupy's stand, Nautilus air horn, Admore lightbar, Ronnie's highway pegs, front running lights, all LED, helmet locks, RAM Xgrip, Sena SMH10, Throttle Tamer, MRA X-Creen, BearingUp Shifter, PR4-GT, Scorpion EXO-T1200,etc