Author Topic: Foot Pegs and Pedal Adjustments  (Read 6886 times)

Offline elvin315

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Foot Pegs and Pedal Adjustments
« on: May 23, 2011, 11:41:08 pm »

Is foot peg placement important? Ask the Pros.

Foot Peg Location

Are the foot pegs too high for you? A set of GenMar or Motorcycle Larry foot peg extensions will lower them but they also move the pegs forward and out a little. That causes them to touch down when leaned over sharply but since the pegs still fold it's not a real concern. More people are bothered by the need to angle your left foot in towards the bike to shift. You get used to it but it is awkward at first. Pilots with Sasquatch sized feet find it especially difficult shifting because they keep touching the fairing with their toes.

If you find the foot pegs are too far forward there are a few ways to go. One is to use Ninja (ZX) foot pegs to put your feet higher and further back (rearsets). Thank Steve Scully for doing the "legwork".

If you want them further back but lower you could accomplish this with GWing pegs and Murph's KneeSavers.

Now, moving the left peg back pulls it away from the shift lever. Good if you have Sasquatch feet but bad for us normal humans. The fix is a longer shift lever. Credit goes to George R. Young for this one. George also found a shorter brake pedal that brings its footpad closer to the now rearset right peg. Kawasaki never answered our pleas for adjustable foot pegs & controls. Thanks to determined owners like George, we now have options.

Foot Lever Adjustments

Whether you move the foot pegs or not you will benefit from adjusting the foot levers.  Placing the levers where they're most comfortable and easiest to reach with your feet will improve your riding with smoother faster shifts, and better modulated braking.

To adjust the shift lever use a wrench to loosen the 2 locknuts on the connecting rod (one is reverse threaded). Twist the rod until the lever height meets your needs, then tighten everything up. If that isn't enough you can rotate the shift shaft clamp one spline but no more than that. It would change the relationship between the shift lever and the shift detent leading to missed shifts and false neutrals.

The brake pedal is a little more involved but still fairly easy. You pull a cotter pin off the clevis pin on the brake cylinder push rod and remove the clevis pin. Loosen the locknut, unscrew the clevis from the master cylinder pushrod, and remove the locknut. Replace the clevis without the locknut. Adjust the pushrod by screwing it all the way into the clevis and replace the clevis pin. Reinsert the cotter pin. The locknut isn't necessary and removing it give you the extra room you need to move the brake pedal down.

All that's left is to adjust the rear brake light switch. Up on the frame, above the rear brakelight switch, are 2 bullet connectors. Snip the cable tie and disconnect them. Hold the plastic nut and screw the light switch in. Reconnect the bullets and test the brake pedal. Repeat until the brake light operates properly.